Clutch pull

[SCutchins]

I feel like this topic has been discussed a lot, and I apologize for bringing it  up again, but its time for me to do something about the clutch pull now that I might have to do some rush hour commuting on the motorcycle.  I'm talking 2-3 hours each way, and there is no way in hell my forearms would last that long.

Is a new 30mm slave cylinder the way to go? If so, which one.

Are levers the way to go?  If so, which one?  Cheap and effective is better than blingy and expensive.

I am heavy leaning towards a slave cylinder because I'm not sure levers could make that dramatic of a difference.  I have pretty big hands so reach isn't an issue.

[Smiling End]

I've heard that the adjustable levers are the way to go.  I don't know because I don't have them (yet) but if I remember correctly a lot of people really liked them and you're able to adjust the distance of the pull and the tension.

[SCutchins]

I've heard that the adjustable levers are the way to go.  I don't know because I don't have them (yet) but if I remember correctly a lot of people really liked them and you're able to adjust the distance of the pull and the tension.

I should clarify that I have a 2005 Monster S4R that came with adjustable levers.  If aftermarket leverl offer a different leverage ratio (you can get this with dirt bikes) then that would be an option to consider.

[He Man]

Its a hit or miss. Some people have had no significant change in clutch pull. Some people have great experiences. Personally i commute with my S2R1000 everyday, and it may be a pita, you can try the 14T mod, and avoid shifting with the clutch whenever possible. You'll get use to it eventually. Ive done it for an hour and it starts to burn like a @)$*(# but you get use to it. Just think of it this way, youll have fingers mae of biceps when after this season!

[SCutchins]

Its a hit or miss. Some people have had no significant change in clutch pull. Some people have great experiences. Personally i commute with my S2R1000 everyday, and it may be a pita, you can try the 14T mod, and avoid shifting with the clutch whenever possible. You'll get use to it eventually. Ive done it for an hour and it starts to burn like a @)$*(# but you get use to it. Just think of it this way, youll have fingers mae of biceps when after this season!

Already have a 14t also.  I will hit true stop-and-go traffic, the kind where you go a mile in 15 minutes.  I don't think I can physically make it with this clutch pull unfortunately, getting severe arm pump while on a highway would be dangerous.

For anyone who knows the DC area, I live in Centreville and will be commuting to Baltimore.  Not long-term, so not worth buying one of those highway legal scooters, but not worth sitting in my truck for the 4 hours it would take to get there if I can't take HOV.

[Slide Panda]

Well, the stock springs are lighter than the stainless - so if you've swapped to SS, you might go back to the originals.

Some folks have experimented with 4 springs, I even saw a pressure plate that was milled to only take 4 springs.  But,  I've yet to hear any reports good or bad on how this went.  That might take some experimentation. 

Obviously ditching some springs will reduce the effort needed to move the stack by 1/3, but it also reduces the force pressing the drive and driven plates together by 1/3

4 factory springs might be too light and get you slipping, or it might work.  4 SS springs might work... might not.  Just a thought.

[johnster]

Motowheels sells a "4-spring clutch conversion kit" which appears to be nothing more than a spring retainer plate and 4 springs....

They don't recommend it if your clutch pack is worn though, so it obviously hightens the chance of slippage....

[CDawg]

Clutch slave is the way to go, not levers.  Levers can be adjusted by large hands and small hands, but still have to push in the same distance for the clutch to disengage.

The clutch slave, on the other hand affects how much force is required to disengage.  I think 30mm is the largest one they make right now.  Here's a very old review on 2 clutch slaves.
http://www.ducatigarage.netfirms.com/cylinders.html

[He Man]

Oh, i forgot about the spring clutch trick! It works great unless your clutch is starting to wear, then your bike will be stalling all day.  stick with Stainless Steel Springs, remove 2 of them that are opposite of each other, and try to start the bike, pull in the clutch and drop it into first and see if your bike wants to stall. If it does, your clutch is slipping, and you may need new plates.

[c_rex]

an STM 30mm slave made a huge difference for me.  an additional and definitely more costly upgrade that might help is a slipper clutch.  You may want to do that eventually anyway.  Chat up Martin at MotoWheels and I bet he'd be able to steer you straight.

[mxwinky]

Yoyodyne low effort clutch slave, $189 from ca-cycleworks.com.  Been there, done that, love it.

[Evil_Ductator]

Anyone know if Evoluzione or Yoyodyne is better?  Same thing?

[55Spy]

MPL or yoyo or evo they all are close to  the same.

the MPL does not have any bearings I thing the yoyo does.  I have th MPL and it did ease up the effort for clutch pull. 

I think I liked evos unit look better but I got a killer deal on an MPL part.

Levers don't really change anything to help with teh effort required to engage/disengage the clutch they help alot if you have smaller hands tho, then you are not stretching to reach the lever.

[moto]

Any of the 30mm bore slave cylinders will reduce the clutch effort.

Clutch Slave Cylinders

STM Clutch Slave Cylinder: 30mm 

MOTOWHEELS Clutch Slave Cylinder: 30mm

EVOLUZIONE Clutch Slave Cylinder: 30.5mm
 
 

[A.duc.H.duc.]

Am I the only one who likes the stiff pull of the stock slave cylinder?

Justin