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Author Topic: Oils ain't Oils, which oil to use?  (Read 3286 times)
Jukie
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Paradise


« Reply #15 on: January 19, 2009, 09:44:12 PM »

do you want me dragon to lube you chain for you
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bmroxm5
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« Reply #16 on: January 19, 2009, 09:49:08 PM »

sounds like mobil 1 for the engine and maxima for the chain  waytogo
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monstermick58
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« Reply #17 on: January 19, 2009, 09:51:28 PM »

Super what about the poor whales, and dont start going on about whales are use for this and that. i know t is just sad


Yeah Super!!

Bloody whales will start squeaking just like the dolphins, (pass me that can of dolphin juice will ya) koalas wont mind a bit, or, you could use baby oil !!






                                            Mmick (this could lead somewhere)
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Jukie
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« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2009, 10:04:23 PM »

yes good one MMMMMMiiicccckkk, keep em comin
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dragonworld.
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« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2009, 10:16:04 PM »

do you want me dragon to lube you chain for you

Heh, now seeing that you are offering, of course !!  waytogo

(So long as you are wearing said shirt.  Grin  Evil )
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Jukie
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« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2009, 10:37:46 PM »

for you anything Wink
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EGAS1
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« Reply #21 on: January 19, 2009, 10:45:48 PM »

sounds like mobil 1 for the engine and maxima for the chain  waytogo

+1 bmroxm5 Yes it does indeed, thank you all who answered my question, so I just make sure every last drop of Shell is out and pop in a new kinda oil OK waytogo
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bazz20
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« Reply #22 on: January 19, 2009, 10:46:25 PM »

chain lube theres only one and thats bel-ray  waytogo
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dragonworld.
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« Reply #23 on: January 19, 2009, 11:36:50 PM »

for you anything Wink

What a girl !! waytogo  Grin
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loony888
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« Reply #24 on: January 19, 2009, 11:57:25 PM »

shell ultra and mobil1 are completely compatible, they're both full synthetic. i just did a change on my S4R and used ultra at $72 for 4 litres, mobil1 is about the same up here and frankly they're as good as each other. they both walk over silkolene, motorex and those other boutique bike oils that in my mind are overpriced and average quality stuff. Filters? genuine, always, no exceptions, i would leave a genuine filter on for an extra change if i could only get an aftermarket one. Chain lube? i used to use maxima chain wax but got pissed off when my local honda shop wouldn't replace two cans with no pressure in them, so i went over the road to the kawasaki dealer and bought torco chain wax and it was $3 cheaper and doesn't fling off!!!!

just a note on mobil1, they make quite a few grades, all marketed as mobil1, MAKE SURE you get the BIKE SPECIFIC one! it is the only one with the correct additives for stability and shear strength needed with combined engine/gearbox type assemblies.

paul.


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Six95
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« Reply #25 on: January 20, 2009, 01:20:19 AM »

Motul 7100 - Full Synth red cordial - $74/4 Litres
Chain Lube - Motul Factory Line, goes on clear, sticks better than the Belray white stuff.
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Dockstrada
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« Reply #26 on: January 20, 2009, 01:24:54 AM »

Motul 7100 - Full Synth red cordial - $74/4 Litres
Chain Lube - Motul Factory Line, goes on clear, sticks better than the Belray white stuff.


Smells dam good to. been temped to av a sip some times  waytogo
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heatherp
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« Reply #27 on: January 20, 2009, 03:59:07 AM »

There's a trick to not having the chain lube fling off.

1. Go for a 500km ride.
2. Open shed and park bike.
3. Apply chain lube (wax, oil, lube something slippery in a can). I use something that goes on white and drys clear but I can't be bothered going out to the shed.  sorry.
4. say goodnight to bike
5. go inside and relax.

How is it helping the chain if it's flinging off - the lube that is?

Thanks to everyone for the oil advice.  I'm finding Shell advance becoming rare and expensive out here in the boon docks too.

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BribieDuc
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« Reply #28 on: January 20, 2009, 04:29:43 PM »

Paul,

I'm running a Scotts Stainless Oil Filter - it has worked well to date (about 2yrs/40K).

 I'm curious why you would not consider one. Their performance data gives an improvement on the filtering range (an abolute 35 micron barrier) and greater oil flow than from paper filters.  It's know some of that improvement may be manipulated stats but I do value being able to see what is in the filter upon opening and cleaning, knowing I have a clean filter on every change (at no cost) and the use of the additional magnet in the filter unit. I also like the environmental benefit of not having to dispose of paper filters to landfill all the time. It even looks good. Only thing I've found is that it needs to be tightened a little more than a stock filter - I binned their supplied filter spanner as it was too snug between the header pipe and the filter and use a small strap wrench instead. Interested to hear what I'm missing.

Rgds, John
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dragonworld.
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« Reply #29 on: January 20, 2009, 11:57:40 PM »

Paul,

I'm running a Scotts Stainless Oil Filter - it has worked well to date (about 2yrs/40K).

 I'm curious why you would not consider one. Their performance data gives an improvement on the filtering range (an abolute 35 micron barrier) and greater oil flow than from paper filters.  It's know some of that improvement may be manipulated stats but I do value being able to see what is in the filter upon opening and cleaning, knowing I have a clean filter on every change (at no cost) and the use of the additional magnet in the filter unit. I also like the environmental benefit of not having to dispose of paper filters to landfill all the time. It even looks good. Only thing I've found is that it needs to be tightened a little more than a stock filter - I binned their supplied filter spanner as it was too snug between the header pipe and the filter and use a small strap wrench instead. Interested to hear what I'm missing.

Rgds, John

Hey John, as the man in that shitful commercial used to say "Where do you get it??  Roll Eyes

That filter sounds the Ducs guts to me for all of the above reasons!!
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