Extreme frame choppin'...

Started by TAftonomos, February 21, 2009, 10:32:45 AM

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TAftonomos

Almost like Celli's bike, but with an aluminum subframe.

I've got the bits to build the subframe, even went out and splurged on a nice bender  [thumbsup].

Now I'm trying to figure out where to chop it.

The bottom seems pretty straight forward.  Remove the offending heavy steel frme, weld in/on a boss, and continue out with an aluminum piece ala SBK.



The top:



is causing me a bit more concern.  Simply cutting the frame here will require a tank mount/seat mount to be fabbed up.  Not a huge deal.  The biggest problem I'm coming up with is visualizing the mounting tab that will be welded to the frame.  There is zero room behind the upper frame tup, as the shock rocker is about 1/16" of an inch behind it.  Maybe someone with a bit more imaginiation can come up with something that will work :)

The easy way out would be to just chop the frame 2" past the pivot, and leave the tank mount there.  Asthetically I'm not sure if that would work though.  I had plans to finish the subframe in black, but if I kept it red, it would flow fine I suppose.

Thoughts?

hcomp

You could weld brackets just behind the critical mounting points. It depends on how important it really is to you to have the mounts right at the frame junctions. Or you could just replace the lower bar where your hand is with a turn buckle and spherical bearings.

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MAXdB

are you trying to something like on the hypermotard

TAftonomos

The photoshopped picture is probably how I'm going to go about it.  Saves a bunch of time haveing a tank mount machined out of a block, making the subframe brackets, etc.  The way shown would be somewhat easy for anyone to do as well, simply chop off the back half, file and insert/weld the attachment points in (almost self jigging), and bolt up the aluminum subframe.

I think I could drop 20lbs off the back of the bike like this with what I've got planned. 

And yea, I'll make you a second one with all the brackets on it as well.  [thumbsup]

NAKID

Quote from: TAftonomos on February 21, 2009, 09:04:21 PM
The photoshopped picture is probably how I'm going to go about it.  Saves a bunch of time haveing a tank mount machined out of a block, making the subframe brackets, etc.  The way shown would be somewhat easy for anyone to do as well, simply chop off the back half, file and insert/weld the attachment points in (almost self jigging), and bolt up the aluminum subframe.

I think I could drop 20lbs off the back of the bike like this with what I've got planned. 

And yea, I'll make you a second one with all the brackets on it as well.  [thumbsup]

20lbs is a whole lot of weight. Where exactly is that coming from?
2005 S2R800
2006 S2R1000
2015 Monster 821

TAftonomos

Everything from that point I'm chopping backwards  [thumbsup]

Only a guestimate, based on what the initial tail chop saved (and including that in the total).  LED array taillight, minus excessive wire, carbon mudguard, carbon breather box and aluminum subframe...

Too bad that darn Ohlins du333 has those excessive parts/resivoirs hanging off if it.....too cluttered for me (need to sell it and get a penske w/ti spring).

He Man

you can defintely save 20lbs if you choped the whole rear off. But how much are you gonna add back on>  :P

Gus Duc

Quote from: TAftonomos on February 21, 2009, 09:29:58 PM
Everything from that point I'm chopping backwards  [thumbsup]

Only a guestimate, based on what the initial tail chop saved (and including that in the total).  LED array taillight, minus excessive wire, carbon mudguard, carbon breather box and aluminum subframe...

Too bad that darn Ohlins du333 has those excessive parts/resivoirs hanging off if it.....too cluttered for me (need to sell it and get a penske w/ti spring).

I'll take the Ohlins.... all I need to do is relocate my coil ;)

Rameses

No way in hell that saves you 20 lbs.

Still a way-cool mod though.   [thumbsup]

TAftonomos

#9
Well see :).  The beer tray and associated stuff that came off was 6.5lbs by itself.  Will being the surgery once back from some R&R in the Bahamas...

Quote from: Gus Duc on February 21, 2009, 10:40:56 PM
I'll take the Ohlins.... all I need to do is relocate my coil ;)

Not even sure you need to do that, it's the remote pre-load adjust remote reservoir model.  Looks like an octopus.

fasterblkduc

Nice, I've been thinking of doing this too. I'm thinking of turning my 620 race monster into a 900 for next year to beat up on SVs. I was thinking of doing this exact mod. and I was thinking of doing it like the suggested photoshop plan. If I do it, the plan is to fab up an underseat exhaust, that will probably exit through or under a superbike tail. (tail yet to be determined) Are you going to fab a subframe for a superbike tail?

I will watch your progress.  [thumbsup]
Atomic Racing
Zalusky Advanced Riding School Lead instructor
2010 partners:
Komodo Gear, Motorex, Studio299, Moto Primo, Caztek, Chickenhawk

TAftonomos

Was going to go with a 1098 tail and some undermount cans, but then I'm getting away from the bike being a monster.  The DP carbon seat is about the extent I'm going to change the body.  But yes, to answer your question an aluminum subframe for sure. 

The other thread about the can was just a mock up, had a pair of them laying around and the one surprisingly looked pretty good.  Once I chop up/off the frame there will be a lot more room under there to explore other options as well.

billg69gmc

You are an ambitious man Theo. Should look quite trick to boot. I think if you pull it off, you could come up with a "kit" to pay for your hard work. It would be especially simple if you did end up with using a pre-fab tail section that adapted easily with you mod, and just as in a tail chop, it would be a matter of measuring off of an established repeatable point on the bike where the stock bolts go through. Bravo!
2010 StreetFighter S     2008 Hym1100     2006 S2R1k

Norm

You should clean up those toothpaste welds while you're in there.

TAftonomos

Thanks for all the encouragement guys/gals!

As far as the welds go on the frame, how would you recommend I go about doing that without screwing with the strength of the frame?  Just cleaning everything up, and tigging over them, adding some rod as I go if needed?