attaching superbike body (update, new pics)

Started by fasterblkduc, February 22, 2009, 07:09:36 AM

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fasterblkduc

I've been asked by many people how did I attach the bodywork to my Monster. I promised some photos so here they are. I'm not going to write a detailed how-to guide, because there are many variables that will have to be figured out by the person doing the modification. I can give you some basic guidelines and answer any questions that I can.
Some of the variables that I'm referring to are, what bike, what bodywork, what brand bodywork, bracket fabrication, location of brackets and holes in bodywork, etc. I will provide some pictures of 999 racing upper and lower mounted to a 620. I've also seen lots of 998, and one monster with 1098 bodywork. The 999, and 998 require some cutting to fit. To my knowledge, the 1098 does not require any cutting and lines up with the frame perfectly. That's what I was told. The brackets that are welded to the frame are made to fit each of those style bodies, so you choose the bodywork, then fabricate your brackets. The 999 requires some 90 degree bent brackets, but the others can use flat brackets. I chose the 999 because no one did it before me, and I like the looks of it better. Plus it gives more room for sponsor logos because it does not have giant vents in the side like the others.






For the front, you need to make a clamp to fit around the steering head. You don't have to pay to have it machined. I have two, one machined and one made with a holesaw. It's aluminum so the holesaw works nicely. Then an adapter was fabricated and welded onto the clamp.



Then you can either fabricate, or buy a fairing stay to bolt to the clamp. Depending on what bike you have, and what body you use, you will have to relocate the gauges.



Brackets get welded to the frame. This bike is being set up to race this year. I just welded these brackets on yesterday.



To get all of this in the right place, you need to put the bodywork on the bike (with lower attached), and get everything in place. I bolted the brackets to the body, then set it all in place before tack welding the brackets on. Then you can remove everything and finish the welds.
If you are setting your monster up for track, rearsets and exhaust are going to be a ground clearance issue. And kickstand but that gets removed. This is on dual sided swingarms. I modified my headers, and turned them up. Then I used 900SS slipons. The bike in the bracket photo is using raised exhaust. We will find out soon if the header scrapes.
That  is a visual reference for people that have asked me what I'm talking about. As far as exact dimensions...it's going to vary, and if you are capable of doing the fabrication then you are capable of measuring yourself. I'll check back here occasionally for questions.  [beer]
Atomic Racing
Zalusky Advanced Riding School Lead instructor
2010 partners:
Komodo Gear, Motorex, Studio299, Moto Primo, Caztek, Chickenhawk

Mac_48

#1
I want to do this but keep the stock rearsets because #1 it is cheaper and #2 I like the riding position the way it is.  would I need to cut the fairing to keep the stock rearsets? or would they fit without needing to modify them?  On either the 999 or 1098 fairings also how difficult would it be to put street fairings on with the headlights and turn signals off of the other bike?
This site is bad for me.....It makes me want to spend thousands of dollars that I do not have XD

fasterblkduc

I really doubt that you can fit stock rearsets, or exhaust with bodywork on a dual sided swingarm monster.
999 light would be very difficult. 1098 not sure. Or you could just make your own light out of a cage driving light. That would be so much easier and lighter weight.
Atomic Racing
Zalusky Advanced Riding School Lead instructor
2010 partners:
Komodo Gear, Motorex, Studio299, Moto Primo, Caztek, Chickenhawk

Mac_48

well it's a s2r800 so it is sss instead of dss....I guess I'll just have to find out
This site is bad for me.....It makes me want to spend thousands of dollars that I do not have XD

DLSGAP

 [thumbsup]  [beer]

Good lookin bike man... nice work on the install
Damien
'07 Kawi ZX-10R Candy Plasma Blue
Draggin Knees since 1988


fasterblkduc

Atomic Racing
Zalusky Advanced Riding School Lead instructor
2010 partners:
Komodo Gear, Motorex, Studio299, Moto Primo, Caztek, Chickenhawk

Bbrent

This is an excellent write up and you obviously have some serious fabrication skills. I really want to do this to my S4RS but I'm terrified to weld anything on to my frame. Have you ever thought about making removeable brackets for the fairings? I'm asking because this is the bike I ride around town and at the track so a setup that is removeable would be ideal. Thanks.

Brian

yotogi

I was thinking about some kind of removable clamps for the frame also. Based on the image, it seems like you should be able to do it. Of course it may mar the crap out of the frame near the mount points but might work.

fasterblkduc

Quote from: Bbrent on June 27, 2009, 08:10:43 PM
. Have you ever thought about making removeable brackets for the fairings?

Yes. I thought of doing that years ago. To make a long story short, someone else had the idea too and started making prototype parts for removable bodywork kits. They were almost ready to go into production then had major issues. I dropped the idea thinking that they were going to go through with it. I saw some of their parts and they were really nice.

I still think it's a good idea but I've lost interest.
Atomic Racing
Zalusky Advanced Riding School Lead instructor
2010 partners:
Komodo Gear, Motorex, Studio299, Moto Primo, Caztek, Chickenhawk