Ducati Monster Forum

powered by:

January 10, 2025, 05:28:10 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Tapatalk users...click me
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  



Pages: 1 [2]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: cutting carbon fiber pipes  (Read 2265 times)
Raux
Guest
« Reply #15 on: March 01, 2009, 09:47:48 AM »

ok got it. i'll take it to the hobby shop that has a table saw that i can brace the pipe and keep it perfectly straight.
Logged
Ivan
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 289


Turn 3 at Streets of Willow


« Reply #16 on: March 01, 2009, 09:49:12 PM »


Be aware that if you use stainless rivets, the el cheapo rivet guns may not work well.  I found out the hard way when I cored the stock exhaust.
Logged

Sold: 2007 S2R1000 for canyon carving and commuting - DP ECU, PCIII, BMC air filter with open box, Zard full exhaust, Race-tech fork internals, Ohlins steering damper, and a Penske 8987 triple clicker

2000 996XU (extra ugly) for track days - BST carbon wheels, Ohlins shock, reworked fork, FBF exhaust, and a bunch of megacycle rocker arms. The rest of it is junk - Hey, I'm just happy that it runs...

Sold: 2002 Aprilia RST1000 for touring - De-restricted airbox, Taylormade Racing exhaust
w7ck7d
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 298


The DUCtOr


« Reply #17 on: March 02, 2009, 02:34:47 AM »

+1 this is true ..stainless is so hard to be cut with the cheap riveter..
Logged

09' 696 Black
94' BRONCO 5.8 EB
DucHead
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3295


No garage queens


« Reply #18 on: March 02, 2009, 03:59:37 AM »

These are from TOB (sorry I can't credit the author, I didn't write down his name/handle):
BEFORE:


(1) Remove cans from your bike. Drill out the rivets that hold on the end pieces of your cans. Drill through the center of the rivets until your hear a splintering sound. Then you may need to use pliers to pull the rivets out. Once you have all the rivets removed, you can pop the end pieces off your cans. You’ll probably need to use a hammer and screwdriver as they’re on pretty tight.


(2) Then remove the packing from your cans. I used gloves and pliers because the fiberglass can be pretty nasty if it comes in contact with your skin. Also notice that the fiberglass is black from the carbon buildup. All of the parts you pull from your cans will be messy and leave black carbon build-up everywhere.


(3) Once you decide how much you want to chop off of your cans, wrap scotch tape around the cans so that you can make a visible cut line and dot have to worry about your CF splintering. When you mark your line measure from the back end of the can and use a flexible straight edge to make your line straight all the way around the can.


(4) Next make your initial cut. Cut all the way around through the tape and into the CF but not all the way through. I cut this with a hacksaw with a metal cutting blade. This made it so that I could work slow enough to ensure a straight line.


(5) Once I cut all the way around through the tape, I hacksawed through the rest of the CF all the way around. Take your time as you want this cut to be as straight as possible. Only cut through the CF. Do not cut through the inner pipe yet. 


(6) Next slide the cut part of the can off the back. You’ll notice that in my example there’s still a heat shield that separates the fiberglass packing from the CF.  If you have a heat shield in there, cut it with a utility knife.


(7) Next, pull out the inner shielding that surrounds the inner pipe.


(Cool Then, cut the inner pipe so that is flush with the end of your CF cans. I used a Dremel tool and the cut was very easy. Just take your time and make sure your cut is even.


(9) Once that is finished, slide the wire mesh sleeve back onto the inner pipe and cut it so that is flush with the end of the pipe. Then you must decide if you want to put the packing back in the can or leave it out. If you want to put it back in like I did, then shove it back in there and cut it even with the end of the can. If you want to leave it out, I would recommend using some header wrap and wrap it around the inner pipe so that your CF doest get too hot without the packing to protect it. Then remove the tape from the end of your can and force the end cap back on. Make sure that you get it on all the way. You can tap on it with a rubber mallet to make sure is on all the way.


(10) Then drill out your rivet holes and use a pop rivet gun to replace the pop rivets. Use the same size drill bit as the size of the rivets you have. I used 3/1 (5mm) aluminum rivets. Then pop the rivets, and put the cans back on your bike.


AFTER:
« Last Edit: March 02, 2009, 05:09:05 AM by pompetta » Logged

'05 S4R (>47k mi); '04 Bandit 1200 (>92k mi; sold); '02 Bandit 1200 (>11k mi); '97 Bandit 1200 (2k mi); '13 FJR1300 (1k mi); IBA #28454 "45"
corey
Is that a throttle tube in your pocket? Or just your
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2799


'06 Tang/Black S2R800


« Reply #19 on: March 02, 2009, 08:41:39 AM »

This fellow takes chopping his pipes VERY seriously! Haha they are so short! I love it.
Hell, he can make another set with his left over shit!

Also, as mentioned. Be sure to wear a respirator of some sort.
Silicosis is a nasty business, your lungs will not enjoy it.
Logged

When all the land lays in ruin... And burnination has forsaken the countryside... Only one guy will remain... My money's on...
Raux
Guest
« Reply #20 on: March 02, 2009, 08:45:13 AM »

yeah i need to cut it down by 100mm. so i'm going from about 350mm to about 250mm total length from the start of the CF to the tip of the CF cap
Logged
Pages: 1 [2]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  


Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Simple Audio Video Embedder
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
SimplePortal 2.1.1