Recommendations for mods....

[Ronr]

I can't see how a slipper would help once you have your speed set and going through the turn.  I do think you're right about the throttle, but it sounds like a precision issue. 

Poor precision could be caused by a sloppy throttle tube, which even the new 848 - 1098's have.  The throttle tube has a lot of wobble on the bar, which can pull on your throttle cables when it wobbles.  Dan Kyle makes a really nice aluminum throttle tube with needle bearings on each end.  Zero wobble, super smooth throttle, but it's so light, you have to be more precise with your throttle control.  It also has a snail shaped cam, which gives you slower throttle down low, and quicker throttle at the top end.  I liked it on my 1098.  He may have the same tube without the bearings, which would still be more precise than the stock tube.

It could also be your cable adjustment is loose.  You should be able to rotate the throttle slightly back and forth at idle without it pulling the cables. But not too much slack, because if you go to idle throttle position in a turn, and then roll it back on, it will not be a smooth transition when you start tensioning the cable again.  That's the first thing I'd check.

Another trick I think I've heard some people do, is raise their idle speed, so when you're going through a turn, your throttle is still slightly open if you happen to go to neutral throttle (idle position).  On a fast sweeper, this is unlikely, because you're still on the gas, but in a slower corner you might be backing it off all the way.

[♣ McKraut ♣]

i'm in the same boat on corners...it was a real pregnant dog on some of those corners at the ams day last fall; very minor adjustments on the throttle equaled a tremendous shift in suspension on the monster.  i wasn't trying to make a habit of backing off throttle in a corner or anything, but just little corrections seemed magnified by the wicked engine brake.  i really need to get on a japanese bike or a d675 sometime for comparison.

[Ronr]

I think part of that is also suspension setup. I hate to get too general, but maybe add a click or two of rebound to keep the front end from decompressing too quickly.

That's probably part of T's problem too, since he is notorious for having suspension setup problems, at least on the 1098.

[♣ McKraut ♣]

yeah...that's very true...i just put mine back to the stock settings basically...it's 100% not set up for me.

[Samsonite]

I think you described my issues perfectly Ronr.... So, when you gonna come set my bike up



 

[Ronr]

I would have done it already, but you're too busy posting

[fastwin]

 

[Samsonite]

I would have done it already, but you're too busy posting

[Ronr]

 


Seriously, get them springs replaced and/or adjusted.  Better than any other mod, and pretty cheap unless you do the major upgrades   

[xsf18cdf]

Thanks for all of the recommendations...I am looking at the ADIGE APTC slipper clutch....anyone have any pros/cons?
Thanks,
GH

[junior varsity]

On Clutch Slave - you can get them in "natural" or "titanium" colored ano so they don't stand out. It reduced the clutch pull and seemed to lengthen the engagement range on my bike. Older bikes had slaves that would go bad as well, so that was part of it.

Opening a clutch, or venting it serves more purposes besides letting it "sing" - It cools the plates and removes dust which is supposed to preserve the life of the plates. Slippers also wear faster than non slippers because the plates slide/slip more frequently.

A good respring of the suspenders is money well spent.