600 mile service, and a bit of a rant.....

ducatiz · April 10, 2009, 06:05:25 AM

Quote from: Jobu on April 10, 2009, 06:04:44 AM
That's the name of the place he copied his bedding in procedure from.

I'm turning you, professor. You'll be hearing from the honor court soon.

baaahhh hahahah

DucHead · April 10, 2009, 06:14:58 AM

Quote from: Jobu on April 10, 2009, 06:04:44 AM
That's the name of the place he copied his bedding in procedure from.

I'm turning you, professor. You'll be hearing from the honor court soon.

Yeah, it looks like I edited out the part where I said I'd do a search.

amcloud · April 10, 2009, 08:29:07 AM

Cut a finish nail into 2 1.5" pieces. Brace the turn signal top and bottom with the nails and tape with black electrical tape, wrapping as much as necessary to make it stable. I have already broken one of mine on my new 1100s. it doesn't matter to me, I am chopping the tail soon anyway which will alleviate the problem. I imagine yours broke as mine did, the small amnt of plastic holding the turn signal on is part of the rear fender, and will be replaced when chopping the tail. The black electrical tape works fine and isn't an eye sore, mine has been that way for a while.

causeofkaos · April 10, 2009, 08:42:27 AM

when i had my 696 i did the oil change myself and they had the bike for half an hour to do the rest (which im pretty sure was absolutely nothing ) labor was $60 for the half hour.

amcloud · April 10, 2009, 08:49:27 AM

As for the 14t sprocket,

1: Loosen rear wheel and slide all the way forward. (check torque)

2: Remove the black plastic sprocket cover (two screws - 5ft-lbs)

3: Remove slave cylinder (small piece left of front sprocket with clutch line running in) (three screws, 7ft-lbs)

4: Remove rear-set (some claim this isn't necessary, but it will make the procedure much easier.) (main hex nut is 24mm and 44ft-lbs, the two allen head bolts are ~8mm and torqued at 26ft-lbs) - these bolts are different lengths so make sure you remember which came from which hole. Also, you will have to have someone hold the bike upright because the front allen head bolt also holds the kickstand bracket and if you remove it the bike will fall on you.

5: Next, remove the bolt(s) holding the front sprocket, I can't remember how it is configured because my new bike has the new front sprocket single large nut (32mm). I believe yours has two small bolts and a locking plate that screw directly into the sprocket itself. (check torque) If they have started using the single 32mm nut on the updated 696s the torque is 137ft-lbs.

6: Slide the old sprocket off the shaft and the new one back on.

7: Reassemble everything in the order you took it apart and torque everything to spec (very important).

8: Slide the rear-wheel back until there is 1 to 1.5 inches of chain deflection...or what looks right. If you want you can measure the chain deflection before and after to make sure it is the same. Measure where the rear wheel is mounted on each side of the swingarm to make sure it is properly aligned before torquing down (there are markings on your swingarm, but I wouldn't trust them. I would measure it).

9: Enjoy the feeling of success, faster acceleration, and first gear power wheelies.

NAKID · April 11, 2009, 05:42:31 AM

I thought the service cost for the 600 mile service was supposed to be set for all 07 and above? $250 for a 600 mile service is close to $100 higher than it should be...

Langanobob · April 11, 2009, 06:07:33 AM

QuoteI thought the service cost for the 600 mile service was supposed to be set for all 07 and above?

Yeah, seems like that's been forgotten, especially by dealers. I think it was a guideline and it sure doesn't seem like Ducati NA is doing much to enforce it. Once they got the increased sales from the lower maintenance cost advertising campaign, they probably forgot about it too.

Paegelow · April 11, 2009, 08:22:42 AM

Quote from: pompetta on April 10, 2009, 04:00:31 AM
After stopping, hold brake pedal/ handle for 1 minute and allow pads to heat soak.

Hey everything I've read says that when you're bedding in new pads, you should never actually come to a complete stop, because once the brand new pads get nice and hot, if they clamp down on the rotors when they're not moving they'll stick to the rotor, and leave some residue when you release the brake! I wonder if it really matters!

ducpainter · April 11, 2009, 08:32:33 AM

Quote from: Paegelow on April 11, 2009, 08:22:42 AM
Hey everything I've read says that when you're bedding in new pads, you should never actually come to a complete stop, because once the brand new pads get nice and hot, if they clamp down on the rotors when they're not moving they'll stick to the rotor, and leave some residue when you release the brake! I wonder if it really matters!

I think at the point they say to do it the pads are not yet that hot.

I don't use that procedure.

I use the stoptech method...

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

seevtsaab · April 12, 2009, 04:38:12 AM

Quote from: amcloud on April 10, 2009, 08:49:27 AM
As for the 14t sprocket,

3: Remove slave cylinder (small piece left of front sprocket with clutch line running in) (three screws, 7ft-lbs)

Amcloud thanks for that tidbit - the slave stymied me yesterday with a stripped hex head, wasn't sure
if I could remove without penalty - appears I can ( just need a replacement bolt first).
Thanks for the torque values as well.
I put a dab of blue locktite on the 2 small sprocket bolts.

Langanobob · April 12, 2009, 05:50:05 AM

QuoteI use the stoptech method...

Interesting read - thanks for posting the link. This guy sounds like the Mototune of brakes. Can't say I agree with everything he says be he's got a lot more brake experience than I do.

ducpainter · April 12, 2009, 05:53:11 AM

Quote from: Langanobob on April 12, 2009, 05:50:05 AM
Interesting read - thanks for posting the link. This guy sounds like the Mototune of brakes. Can't say I agree with everything he says be he's got a lot more brake experience than I do.

I can't say I honestly understand it all, much like the mototune guy, but his bed in procedure saved a set of Brembo rotors for me.

DucHead · April 12, 2009, 05:59:53 AM

I think for my last set of (Galfer) pads, I didn't use the entire procedure. I just went from 60mph to 20mph under braking, let them cool and repeat four times. Seems to have worked just fine -- great stopping and no jutter or screeching.

amcloud · April 12, 2009, 06:01:15 AM

Quote from: seevtsaab on April 12, 2009, 04:38:12 AM
Amcloud thanks for that tidbit - the slave stymied me yesterday with a stripped hex head, wasn't sure
if I could remove without penalty - appears I can ( just need a replacement bolt first).
Thanks for the torque values as well.
I put a dab of blue locktite on the 2 small sprocket bolts.

Not a problem. Learn all you can and don't be afraid to tackle projects with a little info. These bikes are really pretty simple to work on. Ride safe.

Howie · April 12, 2009, 06:05:32 AM

Quote from: Langanobob on April 12, 2009, 05:50:05 AM
Interesting read - thanks for posting the link. This guy sounds like the Mototune of brakes. Can't say I agree with everything he says be he's got a lot more brake experience than I do.

I don't think what they claim holds true for an older Honda Accord or some other cars with marginal brakes, but I believe it holds true for our bikes and high perfomance cars, though I don't follow their bedding practice here in NYC. You can just imagine trying that on the Cross Bronx Expressway

I do try and avoid extremely light application though. We had a bunch of Lexus rotors at school that warranteed for pulsation for students to practice on. None of these were measured out of spec.

News:

600 mile service, and a bit of a rant.....