Advice needed - DP cat eliminator install on S2R 800

[Mountfort]

I just picked up my DP collectors, and looking over the installation I am confused about how to get access to the vertical cylinder exhaust port. (Last bike I did this for was an inline 4 - very straightforward). It might just be a question of tools, but has anyone been down this road?

Bike is a 2007 S2R800. The DP collectors bolt directly to the block, without re-using any of the OEM stock. Help please. javascript:void(0);

[rockaduc]

I did this last year.  I just went in there with a small wrench and took my time.  What a pain in the ass.  Almost 45 min to back the nuts off the stock head studs, and another hour or so to fit and retighten new head.  there might be an easier way, but this worked for me.  Also, be prepared for some "fitment issues".  Some of the hardware will be off by just enough to piss you off.  For example, the bracket on the DP midpipe didn't line up exactly with the hanger from the original exhaust.  I widened it with a dremel.  Problem solved. 

Be patient and take a break when frustrated.  Trust me.

[Mountfort]

Appreciate the information. One more thing - the studs that mount the exhaust headers are pretty corroded, and when I started backing off one of the nuts on the front cylinder the entire stud started to turn. Surprising - are these threaded into the block?   

[rockaduc]

Yes.  Now that you mention it, one of mine did the same thing.  I just backed the whole thing out and threaded it back in after I  freed up the nut.  Once you have everything installed and the TPS reset (I am assuming you also have the DP ecu which neccessitates a TPS reset), ride the thing for a hundred miles or so and then retighten the header nuts.  The new seals will have broken in and you will be able to snug the nuts down a bit more.

[booger]

I agree that this is a pain. I have the same bike and getting access to the vertical header studs is hugely frustrating. Use of u-joint ratchet extensions and/or wobble extensions and gearwrenches with the pivoting heads and a lot of time short-swinging the nuts seem to be the only solution besides removing the engine.

[ducatiz]

Appreciate the information. One more thing - the studs that mount the exhaust headers are pretty corroded, and when I started backing off one of the nuts on the front cylinder the entire stud started to turn. Surprising - are these threaded into the block?   

yes they are and backing out is normal with a corroded LOCK nut.

buy some new studs and copper lock nuts.  they are "prevailing torque" type nuts.  porsches use the same nuts so you can get them cheap all over the web.

i would not reuse the same stud if it has any significant corrosion.  buy new ones (8.8 or 10.9 or better) and use some anti-sieze on the threads going into the head and on the outer threads when you tighten on the nut.

[dubbedown]

bump, just installed (or attempted) my marving midpipe on my s2r 800 but also encountering the same problem. utter is out, midpipe is in, 1 of 2 hangers can't be fitted until i get the vertical cylinder tigthtened but that 1 nut can't be tighened since the piping gets in the way. i figured i'd finish this up in the morning after i run to the hardware store to replace both nuts since they were pretty rusted... but any tips on tools that might complete the job?

[ducatiz]

The rubber mallet is your friend

[DarkStaR]

I use ignition wrenches to get at those.