Axle Alignment Tools - Rhinomoto?

[junior varsity]

Anybody use the Rhinomoto Axelign Axle Alignment Tool?

Recommend it for DSS Monster with 17mm Axle?

Recommend a different tool for lining up the axles? Or is "eyeballing" it really enough. I tried the straight-edge method, and it looks to run correct with the chain, but here's the dig: The wheel looks visually straight, but I don't think that's much help and the space I can slide the axle forward on one side is different than the other, within the axle adjustment range.

[ducpainter]

I use a tape measure from the swing arm pivot to the axle center.

[DucHead]

I use a tape measure from the swing arm pivot to the axle center.

And DP didn't buy the tape measure either.  He made it from iron ore, coal and a set of matches. 

[ducpainter]

And DP didn't buy the tape measure either.  He made it from iron ore, coal and a set of matches. 

...another comedian...

[junior varsity]

Any advantage over fancier parts? Obviously I own a tape measure, but I see things like laser alignment doodads and such and wonder if they are marketed because they serve some purpose or simply because people will buy them.

[Spidey]

I originally tried to be super anal about alignment.  It was really frustrating.

Now I eyeball.  Occasionally I do the straightedge, but pretty much just use the eyeball.  It's faster and in my experience pretty accurate.  It's gotten me through thousands of miles and bunch track days and a coupla race seasons without incident or unusual wear.  YMMV, of course. 

[junior varsity]

I tried the ruler/straight-edge method, and my chain looks like it is aligned with the sprocket. And the wheel looks straight. But I have gap in front of the axle-adjuster plate on one side, and not on the other. So I feel like I need to move stuff. But how can this be? The ruler says it is straight? Frustrating indeed.

I'm going to tinker again today.

[Spidey]

Personally, I don't pay attention to the axle plates or the alignment marks.  They lie constantly, those untrustworthy bastards.

[junior varsity]

well, i'm just going to bin them then. and those pesky axle adjuster plates too. once i get rolling, i figure things will sort themselves out on their own. perhaps it will work like the four-wheel steer trucks, except two-wheel steer motorcycle. might help the duc's turning radius in a parking lot.

[gage]

are you talking about aligning your sprockets or making sure you're wheel is straight with the centerline of the bike?

[junior varsity]

wheel is straight with center line of bike. LT Snyder's manual talks about using a ruler to see if the wheel/sprocket are out of line with the chain, as it goes straight forward to the front sprocket. seems like measuring is easier though.

[fasterblkduc]

Changing wheels on racebikes constantly has made me very fast and accurate at doing the ruler method. I would advise putting the bike in gear, then rolling the wheel backwards until there is tension on the upper span of the chain. (works best with the bike on a rearstand) While holding this tension with one hand, use the straight edge off of the sprocket to check the chain with the other hand. If you don't tension the chain this way, the slop can throw you off.
I've also tried the laser tool and it's more hassle than it's worth in my opinion. I've checked the laser against the straight edge and get the same results everytime.

[ScottRNelson]

I originally tried to be super anal about alignment.  It was really frustrating.

Now I eyeball.  Occasionally I do the straightedge, but pretty much just use the eyeball.  It's faster and in my experience pretty accurate.  It's gotten me through thousands of miles and bunch track days and a coupla race seasons without incident or unusual wear.  YMMV, of course. 

I've had pretty good results with just eyeballing it too, but I'll use the eyeball method, then double check with a tape measure and also with string on occasion to make sure that it's good enough.

If you aren't sure about the eyeball method, you can always use a tape measure and set one side off by a millimeter or two to verify that you can, indeed, see that it isn't aligned correctly.  Once you're convinced that you can tell for sure whether or not it it aligned properly, then you can trust the easier method.