Electrical - 96 M900 - Obscene screeching buzz & no juice - FIXED!!!!!

[dropstharockalot]

Multi-part question.

1) What the hell is this thing?


Same part, removed from it's rubber frame mount... the pale brown plastic cover sez: "Type 23  /  B 047   / 12V.40A"


Once the cover is removed, the coiled wires, springs, and little contact arm are exposed - but not so clear in this crappy pic:



2) Why is it emitting an awful, high-pitched buzzing sound whenever I flip the key to "on"?

3) Is that awful, high-pitched buzzing sound the reason that none of my lights or indicators function, and my start button is not starting the bike?



Thanks in advance for any assistance.

To show my appreciation, please enjoy this image:

[ducpainter]

It is the main relay, and yes it is the reason nothing works.

I think there may be some replacement info in the sticky thread at the top of the page.

[greenmonster]

When you turn ign on, you see how it works now w/o the hood.
The little copper thingy should connect/not connect.
Simply adjust that and wetsand just a little & clean the mating surfaces and it should work again.

[dropstharockalot]

It is the main relay, and yes it is the reason nothing works.

I think there may be some replacement info in the sticky thread at the top of the page.

The "Cheap Replacement Parts" thread?

///stupid on Sundays...

[monsta]

mine did that (made the high pitch buzzing) when I had dirty contacts on the battery cables. I'm guessing that resistance in the leads ment that there wasn't enough pull to make the relay work properly?

anyhow, cleaned the battery leads  (after checking relay) and all good.... 

[ducpainter]

The "Cheap Replacement Parts" thread?

///stupid on Sundays...

That's the thread I meant.

[greenmonster]

2) Why is it emitting an awful, high-pitched buzzing sound whenever I flip the key to "on"?

Because contact is bad.

Try my little recipe, simple & funtional.
Done it on at least 5 bikes by now.

[dropstharockalot]

OK, I'm gonna give the sandpaper trick a whirl.  Fingers crossed...

[greenmonster]

Main thing is to adjust so it clearly connects-disconnects when you turn on ignition.

[dropstharockalot]

I'm trying to work the main relay free from the connector, but it doesn't want to come free - am I missing a toggle or connector or latch or something, or is it just wedged in there pretty good?

///doesn't wanna apply leverage and have the thing detonate into a bazillion pieces...

Thx again.

[Speeddog]

Put the cover back on the relay, so you can grab it without tweaking things.

Then hold the connector body and wiggle/pull on the relay.

Sounds like the terminals may be corroded, likely part or all of your problem.

[greenmonster]

Maybe my English is too limited, I`m talking about connection inside here:



The flat copper thingy w a round spot that makes contact w the spool of copper.
Make sure it connects/disconnects as it should.

[ducpainter]

Maybe my English is too limited, I`m talking about connection inside here:



The flat copper thingy w a round spot that makes contact w the spool of copper.
Make sure it connects/disconnects as it should.

I think what Speeddog was saying is the fact that the connector won't come apart is an indication of a corroded connection which may prevent the relay from receiving enough voltage to work properly.

[greenmonster]

Think that`s also what speedog means.

But, I have fixed several relys w the little mod I`ve mentioned.

[Speeddog]

I think what Speeddog was saying is the fact that the connector won't come apart is an indication of a corroded connection which may prevent the relay from receiving enough voltage to work properly.

Yeah, that's what I meant.

Once the relay's disconnected, you can test it, no need to futz with the innards of it if it's working.