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Author Topic: 07 S2R1K - Rear brake doesnt seem to do much of anything - help !  (Read 7310 times)
ProTeal55
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« on: May 21, 2009, 08:43:34 AM »

QUESTION:

Does the rear brake on my monster suck or do all of these bikes share the same weak rear brake setup ?
I just got the bike back together from getting powdercoated and the rear brake seems to be worse than it was before (even then it was horrible)..So my first thought is that there is air in the system, so it got bled, and bled, and bled. Go for a ride and it isn’t any better. So then I think that maybe oil/grease got onto the pads/rotor so I take the pads off and sand them down, & do the same to the rotor. Go take it for a ride and nothing changes..

I have pressure on the pedal, no signs of leaks, etc..
It does something, but not enough as it should be doing (my opinion)..
Even from day one I was never able to lock up the rear tire on the thing (no matter how hard I try)..

Anyone have any ideas on this ?
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ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Joe
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dbran1949
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« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2009, 08:57:44 AM »

they are all this way. If you want to lock up the rear wheel, just downshift without matching engine revs
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« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2009, 09:42:07 AM »

the rear brake is pretty shitty. you have to think about it though, if your using your front brake a lot, there isnt much weight on the rear to begin with and its very easy for the thing to slide once youve take most of the weight off, which is the only way ive ever managed to get it to slide. i got new ferodo pads in the rear, but i cant get all the air out so its even worst then before.
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« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2009, 10:27:30 AM »

try bleeding the system (if you havent already) make sure and take the caliper off so that the banjo is in the right position.
and then be content with it. thats the way they are.
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ProTeal55
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« Reply #4 on: May 21, 2009, 10:52:40 AM »

Like I said I bled the hell outta the rear brake thinking it was air - nothing..
Scuffed the pads and the rotor itself thinking some oil could of gotten on their - nothing..
I just dont remember the rear brake being as bad as it is before the bike got torn apart..

As far as downshifting/engine brakeing goes I am a big fan.  waytogo
« Last Edit: May 21, 2009, 10:59:48 AM by ProTeal55 » Logged

ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Joe
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« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2009, 11:00:58 AM »

I'm not an expert, but your brakes can't be working as supposed to if you're not at all able to lock up Huh?

I've been able to lock up since and before the 12k (km) service. It takes a conscious effort, but that's a good thing so it doesn't happen too often.
Then again I almost never use it, so .....
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ProTeal55
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« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2009, 11:47:16 AM »

I always thought the rear brake was pretty weak on the bike since the day I bought it.
No reason the rear drum brake on my 74 CB450 should work better than on my 07 Ducati  bang head.
Anyone sell a aftermarket rotor or something that actually works better than stock ?
« Last Edit: May 21, 2009, 12:02:03 PM by ProTeal55 » Logged

ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Joe
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« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2009, 12:09:27 PM »

change to a higher friction pad?
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ProTeal55
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« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2009, 12:32:16 PM »

change to a higher friction pad?
Any recommendations  ?
The less brake dust output the better  Grin
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ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Joe
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« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2009, 12:44:55 PM »

Any recommendations  ?
The less brake dust output the better  Grin

Ferodo sintered brake pads. They is the shiznit.

I-ve encountered the unbleedable system before. Find a way to zip tie the lever when it's actuated and leave it overnight. It worked wonders for my front brakes the last time I bled my system and did not have the pressure I wanted.
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pennyrobber
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« Reply #10 on: May 21, 2009, 12:46:13 PM »

Don't know if it will work for a rear brake but I learned a trick from a friend that may help. Sometimes after bleeding brakes (especially after a full fluid swap) there are stuborn bubbles that refuse to leave the system. If you pull the brake or clutch lever in and let it "pop" back out a couple of times, you can shake those bubbles loose. I know it sounds crazy but I have seen it work more than once. The last time in particular, we had changed out front brake fluid on a friends sportclassic and bled the brakes to the point that no bubbles were coming out. The brakes still felt spongy though. Tried the old lever pop trick and they were as good as new. I would just push your brake pedal down as far as you can and let it pop back up a few times. It might not work but it only takes a minute to try.
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ProTeal55
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« Reply #11 on: May 21, 2009, 01:01:58 PM »

Ferodo sintered brake pads. They is the shiznit.
Where abouts on the innerweb can I source some of these pads you speak of ?
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ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Joe
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« Reply #12 on: May 21, 2009, 01:21:21 PM »

ca-cycleworks, i got them on my rear. well not the sintered ones, i have the semi organics.
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« Reply #13 on: May 21, 2009, 01:25:30 PM »

Where abouts on the innerweb can I source some of these pads you speak of ?

You can find them here:
http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/shop/catalog/ducati/brake_pads.html

But I also recommend checking out Monsterparts.com it is the source of all monster yumminess. You can call Jeff and ask him to recommend you a set depending on what you need. Seriously though, dealing with monsterparts will restore your faith on customer service. Plus you get a 10% discount if you mention that you're from the board.  
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« Reply #14 on: May 21, 2009, 03:33:57 PM »

I always thought the rear brake was pretty weak on the bike since the day I bought it.
No reason the rear drum brake on my 74 CB450 should work better than on my 07 Ducati  bang head.
Anyone sell a aftermarket rotor or something that actually works better than stock ?

This.  I noticed the same thing on my '06 S2R. Seems very goofy.
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