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Author Topic: Safety Wire Question  (Read 5167 times)
Fast Cletus
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« on: May 19, 2008, 01:23:02 PM »

I am particpating in my first CCS race this weekend, and I have a questions regarding what to safety wire so I will pass tech.  Here is what I know I need to safety wire, Oil Filter, Oil Filler Cap, rear pegs.  Do I need to saftey wire the calipers front and rear and also the rod that goes through the back wheel?
I posted this on the DML, but after reading spidey's message I guess we are all jumping ship?
Jimmy C
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PS I am racing my monster
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« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2008, 01:38:35 PM »

maybe you should try the CCS forum?

http://www.ccsforum.com/
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Like this is the racing, no?
Fast Cletus
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« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2008, 01:45:34 PM »

Thanks I needed that!
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derby
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« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2008, 01:46:17 PM »

axles or axle nuts

oil filler caps

kickstarter retaining bolts

axle caps and/or pinch bolts 

oil drain plug(s)

removable exhaust baffles

brake caliper bolts

oil gallery plugs

radiator caps

brake torque arms

oil lines

coolant drains

speedo and tach cables

spin on oil filters/filter bolts

any pressure fed lubricant line

fork oil drain screws/bolts 

rear exhaust mount(s) (all) 

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Retired rides: '05 Duc Monster S4R, '99 Yam YZF-R1, '98 Hon CBR600F3, '97 Suz GSX-R750, '96 Hon CBR600F3, '94 Hon CBR600F2, '91 Hon Hawk GT, '91 Yam YSR-50, '87 Yam YSR-50

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duckwrench13
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This thing sounds broken...


« Reply #4 on: May 19, 2008, 08:16:02 PM »

Some bolts may be a bit difficult to get to... recessed caliper bolts, etc... so you may need to use a blob of RTV, or E6000, silicone adhesive to secure them. It's flexible enough to resist vibrations, but strong enough to keep things in place. And you can remove it with a small pick and a good tug.
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« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2008, 05:24:19 AM »

PS I am racing my monster

I've always wondered what it would be like to have a Monster on the track, especially the little ones.

You might want to check around in your area for people who do safety wiring.  There are plenty of individuals who are not associated with shops who have safety wired so many bikes on their own that they will do it for a fee for other racers.

Congrats on racing CCS!  My boyfriend, Stillie, is racing CCS this weekend at Summit Point.  It will be a couple of years before I want to race, but it's gonna happen at some point!
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fasterblkduc
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« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2008, 10:26:20 AM »

Some bolts may be a bit difficult to get to... recessed caliper bolts, etc... so you may need to use a blob of RTV, or E6000, silicone adhesive to secure them. It's flexible enough to resist vibrations, but strong enough to keep things in place. And you can remove it with a small pick and a good tug.

That will not pass tech. Sorry man but that's the wrong advice to give someone on the way to the track. If that were acceptable then everyone would just use silicone or threadlocker on everything. You will get booted out of Tech. inspection very quickly if you try this.

If you have a recessed bolt head, first grind a flat spot on the outer diameter of the bolt head. Then drill through your flat spot. Put the bolt back into it's place. Torque it down. Now you will have a gap that's big enough to fit your wire through since you ground a flat spot.

I'll add another to the list. On my Monster, I also safety wire the rear axle adjuster bolts. It's easy and gives you something to wire your axle nuts to.
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This thing sounds broken...


« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2008, 11:18:19 AM »

That will not pass tech. Sorry man but that's the wrong advice to give someone on the way to the track. If that were acceptable then everyone would just use silicone or threadlocker on everything. You will get booted out of Tech. inspection very quickly if you try this.

I've used this method on several of the bikes I built while competing in WERA/CCS with the Mototek Aprilia team, in 2003. I've also had to use it on some of the more difficult to access bolts on bikes I've run with Munroe Motor's AMA & AFM teams 2004-2005. Even this past weekend, there were some bolts that were done this way on the 749R that Tigre ran at the Infineon round of AMA. Not once has it ever become an issue with tech.

I'm not saying that it is a complete substitute for safety wire, but there will be instances where you cannot get adequate access to properly wire a bolt. It's in a situation like this, that a silicone adhesive is used.
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« Reply #8 on: May 20, 2008, 02:01:18 PM »

 Shocked  Wow!...I stand corrected. I'm surprised to hear that. I've only raced with one organization and the one time I did that method, I was hassled big time. They let me race that weekend but did not like it.  My appologies!  Wink

You mentioned caliper bolts...do they really let those go that way? I'm really shocked at that one. That's not difficult at all to wire.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2008, 02:06:01 PM by fasterblkduc » Logged

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« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2008, 04:17:43 PM »

I have a related question, so I resurrected this thread.

Does anyone have a link to directions for safety wiring?

I'm taking the Cornerspeed class at VIR in July, and they require safety wiring the oil fill cap, oil drain plug, and oil filter.
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« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2008, 05:35:04 PM »

Here's an aircraft-oriented one:

http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/191176-1.html

The freshly cut end of safety wire is perfect for puncturing fingers.
Consider yourself skilled if you can safety wire four things without drawing blood.  Grin
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« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2008, 06:20:49 PM »

Thanks Speeddog  Smiley  Looks straightforward...not necessarily easy, but straightforward.   Grin

But given the shape of the Ducati oil drain plug, how the hell do you drill it?   Huh?

Nevermind - I can purchase pre-drilled plug and filler cap here.
« Last Edit: May 30, 2008, 06:34:37 PM by pompetta » Logged

'05 S4R (>47k mi); '04 Bandit 1200 (>92k mi; sold); '02 Bandit 1200 (>11k mi); '97 Bandit 1200 (2k mi); '13 FJR1300 (1k mi); IBA #28454 "45"
derby
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« Reply #12 on: May 30, 2008, 06:41:10 PM »

http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips/safetywiring.html

http://www.emra.ca/Tech%20Tips/Tech%20Tips.htm

http://www.rc51.org/wire1.htm

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-- derby

'07 Suz GSX-R750

Retired rides: '05 Duc Monster S4R, '99 Yam YZF-R1, '98 Hon CBR600F3, '97 Suz GSX-R750, '96 Hon CBR600F3, '94 Hon CBR600F2, '91 Hon Hawk GT, '91 Yam YSR-50, '87 Yam YSR-50

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« Reply #13 on: May 30, 2008, 07:03:13 PM »

Thanks Derb!!  chug
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'05 S4R (>47k mi); '04 Bandit 1200 (>92k mi; sold); '02 Bandit 1200 (>11k mi); '97 Bandit 1200 (2k mi); '13 FJR1300 (1k mi); IBA #28454 "45"
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