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Author Topic: Another Monster Project -- on going status <picture heavy>  (Read 44097 times)
dbran1949
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2007 S4RS Black Termis


« Reply #60 on: July 17, 2010, 07:38:23 AM »

- All inputs are opto-coupled. Meaning smaller wires(>24AWG) can be used because of its low current needed to actuate.

- All system information is broadcasted via a CAN bus I/F, I2C or simple UART for later expansion. Example only 4 wires are needed to interface front end of bike.(Power, Ground, Data, Clock). All information can be decoded locally. This will greatly reduce wires between main body of bike and front handle bars.

First let me say your work is phenomenal as someone who started designing PCBs to replace ferrite bead core memory I really like what you have done  waytogo

one comment - one question

comment
One of the downsides to low current operation is that even the tiniest bit of oxidation can cause contact closure detection failure. On my S4RS the starter button does not connect to a relay but to the ECU. I was having intermittent failure to start, push the button and nothing. When I looked at the schematic I realized  that the started button was not connected to a relay. Pulled the handle bar switch apart, used a pink pearl on the contacts. After "careful" reassembly (what a PITA) and water proofing it has been working fine ever since. The oxidation was so slight I was only able to notice it because I had seen it before on numerous back-plane connectors.

question

CAN bus sounds like a great idea, won't you need a small microprocessor up at the handlebar to encode all the switches up there?

As I said before - great work. As an owner of a FI bike I have often contemplated replacing the DP ECU with something that didn't cause raw fuel to drip out the end of the pipes when driving around town. Of course contemplation is easy
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Turf
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« Reply #61 on: July 17, 2010, 01:50:08 PM »

Damn, definitely going to have to keep an eye on this build

 lots of nice subtle touches

i dig
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« Reply #62 on: July 18, 2010, 09:20:31 AM »

I love it!  Absolutely clutter free bike...no ugly wires waytogo
Very nice waytogo
Thanks all! I missed riding the ole girl.
I took her to the local ice cream join last night. Couple of dirty looking, over weight, black t-shirt HD riders gave me the usual... "why did you remove all the plastic" routine. I told them i having the inside of the plastic washed.

First let me say your work is phenomenal as someone who started designing PCBs to replace ferrite bead core memory I really like what you have done  waytogo
Rock on! Thx.
That is some cool ole skool sh*t there. Awesome  waytogo.
If you don't mind, I'll send you the preliminary design for ver2 of this project. I could use the input from another EE who also have a passion for motorcycles?

Dammit, why couldn't you have made an extra prototype, then I wouldn't have had to use a motogadget  Grin
Haha. Actually i did buy parts for 3 kits as promised, one was(is) allocated to you and other for Mark at MotoCreations for his "Orange" project. However, i just couldn't meet your target date. If i had finished this project sooner, i would have loved to forward you a sample. Time was a limiting factor and the fact that I kept putting it off. I had other Ducs to ride. So it was not a line down situation. Besides it's a v1.0. Like ANYTHING "v1.0" there are slight hick-ups??? I believe version2 is in order. The main reason is the CINCH ABS plastic housing i chose. It is made my same folks who makes the stock Ducati connectors on the ECU. They make good auto connectors, but their PCB housing is a piece of SH*T to say the least. And not to mention some errors in their documentation. Had major issues crimping/installing the wires into the box. I designed the PCB around their housing. I wanted a fast solution. My mistake. Should expect this much from a French company - Ha!

Version2 i'll make my own housing and thus will allow a ~30% reduction in size. And I'll also be adding a GPS radio into the design. I want to extract ground speed and heading information. I believe with a good active antenna this is possible even in the most difficult of location for GPS signals. This will allow the elimination of the wheel sensor. Thus one less wire showing. Another cool factor.  Cool
So see... wouldn't you rather have v2 instead?  Grin

comment
One of the downsides to low current operation is that even the tiniest bit of oxidation can cause contact closure detection failure. On my S4RS the starter button does not connect to a relay but to the ECU. I was having intermittent failure to start, push the button and nothing. When I looked at the schematic I realized  that the started button was not connected to a relay. Pulled the handle bar switch apart, used a pink pearl on the contacts. After "careful" reassembly (what a PITA) and water proofing it has been working fine ever since. The oxidation was so slight I was only able to notice it because I had seen it before on numerous back-plane connectors.
Very true. Especially with different contact materials or contacts that are open to ambient environment.
I'll be using something similar to these. (See pic below). Ingress Protection =  IP65. Tangshan contacts. More resistive to oxidation. Picture shown is Blue. They come in Red and Green and even Tri-colours. Was thinking about also using them as idiot lights? The buttons will double as idiot lights. Again less clutter up front.


CAN bus sounds like a great idea, won't you need a small microprocessor up at the handlebar to encode all the switches up there?
Definitely! I was thinking sending 2each ~16AWG(mostly for headlight load) and a ~24AWG twisted pair for data comm. It will basically be a half-duplex I/O expander. Probably find an off the self unit if anything. I've seen some on eBay.  What would be really really cool is just send the 2 power wires. Then put in a small RF transceiver locally to eliminate the twisted pair.... haha. But that maybe over kill!
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Bike#1: 2002 Ducati MH900e #1801
Bike#2: 2006 Ducati Monster S2R1000
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Bike#4: 2008 Ducati HyperMotard 1100
dbran1949
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« Reply #63 on: July 18, 2010, 10:02:37 AM »

That is some cool ole skool sh*t there. Awesome  waytogo.
If you don't mind, I'll send you the preliminary design for ver2 of this project. I could use the input from another EE who also have a passion for motorcycles?



Definitely! I was thinking sending 2each ~16AWG(mostly for headlight load) and a ~24AWG twisted pair for data comm. It will basically be a half-duplex I/O expander. Probably find an off the self unit if anything. I've seen some on eBay.  What would be really really cool is just send the 2 power wires. Then put in a small RF transceiver locally to eliminate the twisted pair.... haha. But that maybe over kill!

Be happy to look at the design, shoot me a PM so we can exchange emails, although it's been a while since I have done any PCB work. Doing a lot of system architecture lately, presently working on the western interconnect synchrophasor program for the bulk electric system.

I think RF is a little too risky especially with HV coils in the near vicinity, twisted pair is tried and true. I only have wireless in my house for visitors, For all my stuff it's all CAT 5e  

BTW those are some cool switches, I am in the process of helping a buddy rewire 1949 jeep. It is staying mostly stock except for one panel that will be removable in case someone wants to take it back to completely stock. Do you have a link to the source?
« Last Edit: July 18, 2010, 10:05:37 AM by dbran1949 » Logged
suzyj
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« Reply #64 on: July 18, 2010, 11:29:09 AM »

The main reason is the CINCH ABS plastic housing i chose. It is made my same folks who makes the stock Ducati connectors on the ECU. They make good auto connectors, but their PCB housing is a piece of SH*T to say the least. And not to mention some errors in their documentation. Had major issues crimping/installing the wires into the box. I designed the PCB around their housing. I wanted a fast solution. My mistake. Should expect this much from a French company - Ha!

Oh cool.  I've done a couple of half-arsed searches to try to find replacements for the ECU connectors, but turned up nothing.  I'd stupidly assumed they were AMP connectors like most of the others on the bike.

I really like what you've done, Ohmic.  It looks really cool.

Just a thought - by swapping from lead acid to life cells, there's a lot of space liberated in the battery holder - you could put plenty of electronics in there...

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greenohawk69
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« Reply #65 on: July 18, 2010, 11:38:16 AM »

Very cool and great work.  Like bike porn.   laughingdp
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« Reply #66 on: July 18, 2010, 12:08:59 PM »



Spooge.
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« Reply #67 on: July 24, 2010, 05:44:35 AM »

Just a thought - by swapping from lead acid to life cells, there's a lot of space liberated in the battery holder - you could put plenty of electronics in there...
Thanks. I may visit this if realistate becomes an issue.

BTW those are some cool switches, I am in the process of helping a buddy rewire 1949 jeep. It is staying mostly stock except for one panel that will be removable in case someone wants to take it back to completely stock. Do you have a link to the source?
Yes. These would be great for your buddy's Jeep. There are several companies that produce these pushbuttons. Bulgin is one and the other is Schurter. I have the Bulgin onhand and their quality is top notch. I know Mouser carries the Schurter versions. One thing is that they are on the larger size of bike application. Should work for me as i'm putting them on my top triple. Still on a lookout for smaller versions that will fit the handle bars.

Here are the links:
http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Switches/Illuminated.html
http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntk=P_MarCom&Ntt=102748100
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'It's NOT a Harley... It's a Ducati!'

Bike#1: 2002 Ducati MH900e #1801
Bike#2: 2006 Ducati Monster S2R1000
Bike#3: 2006 Ducati Sport1000
Bike#4: 2008 Ducati HyperMotard 1100
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« Reply #68 on: July 24, 2010, 07:39:48 AM »

Don't know how I missed this thread.  All I can say is just "Wow!"  Shocked   Beautiful bike.  Love how even parts of the bike that most people won't see are so beautifully done.   waytogo
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Airborne
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« Reply #69 on: July 24, 2010, 12:38:55 PM »

What did you use to clean your engine? Whats your technique. I think I can eat off that thing.
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Ohmic
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« Reply #70 on: July 24, 2010, 04:23:27 PM »

What did you use to clean your engine? Whats your technique. I think I can eat off that thing.
Yeah... let's face it. Degreaser, soap, brush etc(normal way) can only go so far on a dirty motor.

What I do is something i would NOT recommend. It can be dangerous. So please no posting telling me about the safety aspect of it and how people burn down their garage and sh*t. I know and I understand.

So. If you are thinking about using my technique, please do so in a safe environment(well ventilated) and use common sense. Note: COMMON SENSE

This is what i do. About once a year. On a cold motor, I use a small amount of gasoline. Very small amount! Preferably outside. Pour it into a small bowl. With a small paint brush go over all the nook and cranny you wish to have oil/grease dissolved. The gasoline won't damage the paint on the motor. It will dissolve the oil and grease on contact. Let the dirty gasoline drip back into the bowl. After you can go ahead and use your degreaser/soap to finish the motor/bike.  I'm sure there are other "safer" chemicals on the market one could use to get their motor clean enough to eat off.

Oh... and to dry your bike fast and easy without any streaks. Use a leaf blower on it. Blow it from top to bottom. Then wax her up. Done.
I can wash/wax a motorcycle in under 15mins and one or two drink
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'It's NOT a Harley... It's a Ducati!'

Bike#1: 2002 Ducati MH900e #1801
Bike#2: 2006 Ducati Monster S2R1000
Bike#3: 2006 Ducati Sport1000
Bike#4: 2008 Ducati HyperMotard 1100
dbran1949
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« Reply #71 on: July 24, 2010, 05:20:37 PM »

Oh... and to dry your bike fast and easy without any streaks. Use a leaf blower on it. Blow it from top to bottom. Then wax her up. Done.

Been using a leaf blower on my car and bike for years, also works great on golden retrievers
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1KDS
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« Reply #72 on: July 25, 2010, 04:15:40 PM »

I just keep staring at this pic, if I can make my bike look like this (clean) with one of your boards, sign me up!

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« Reply #73 on: July 25, 2010, 05:41:13 PM »

I just keep staring at this pic, if I can make my bike look like this (clean) with one of your boards, sign me up!

+1   waytogo   popcorn
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'05 S4R (>47k mi); '04 Bandit 1200 (>92k mi; sold); '02 Bandit 1200 (>11k mi); '97 Bandit 1200 (2k mi); '13 FJR1300 (1k mi); IBA #28454 "45"
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« Reply #74 on: July 25, 2010, 10:18:02 PM »



Yeah, amazing...one of, if not THE best looking Monsters I've ever seen.   waytogo

Makes me want to push mine off a cliff into the ocean, as it'll never look near that good...
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2000 M750
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