Tight Spot

[Lord_Bragle]

I have 10,000 miles on my chain and sprockets (S2R). The sprockets look fine but it turns out that the chain has a really tight spot on it, this tight spot tricked me in to adjusting the chain far to tight (about 400 miles back) but now having readjusted it to the recommended 32mm free play on this "tight" section I ended up with a chain that’s way to slack.

My question is… does the chain and sprockets likely need changing? and is 10,000 miles service life realistic for a chain.  Also I noticed that with the chain really slack like it is now I get much smoother gear changes, especially clutchless ones, I had noted that I had pretty much given up on clutch less cog swaps recently but as soon as I slaked the chain back off I instinctively started clutch less changes again so this isn’t just my imagination, its surprising because I would have thought it would be other way round with a tight chain keeping the driveline tight and sharp and likewise gear changes, looking forward to any advice on this, taaaa   

[Capo]

Your chain is shot, continuing to use it will accelerate wear on the sprockets

[zarn02]

Your chain is shot, continuing to use it will accelerate wear on the sprockets

+1

when your chain starts getting tight or loose spots in it, it's time for a new one.

and don't cheap-out and just buy a new chain, with 10K on the sprockets they're going to need a change too, lest you kill your new chain thousands of miles early by pairing it with old sprockets.

[VisceralReaction]

I did the same thing at about 11K. But then I didn't change the chain like I should have.
I ended up hooking the front sprocket teeth and had to then swap out the whole mess
rather than just the chain.
Change your chain out. It'll save money in the long run.
Now technically you really should put new sprockets on at the same time so they "bed" in correctly.
Supposed to make you chain last longer that way.

[Lord_Bragle]

Oks its new chain and sprockets for the S2R (already in its life though? Motorcycles are expensive!!! I heard it said already lol  ), I just need to sort out how to get the new chain riveted permanently to the SSS arm; guess I need to buy a riveter, gawd, well at least I wont get a bill for new sprockets n chain fitted when the bike goes for its 12,000 mile service shortly.

[Lord_Bragle]

I forgot to say THANX for the advice, so thanx   

[Mr Earl]

I've got to disagree with the conventional wisdom here.  Chris Kelley at CA Cycleworks says that if the sprockets are in good condition, there's no reason to replace them.  If you carefully inspect for wear, maybe doing a side-by-side comparison with a new sprocket, and see none, there's no reason to replace sprockets.

I just did a chain replacement, and both sprockets look perfect: no fishhooking, no tooth shortening, no sign of wear at all.  So I just put on a new chain.

Here's a very reasonably priced chain tool, I just used it and it worked great.  If it's not the D.I.D. tool, then it's a great copy:  http://www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-tools.php?category_id=7.1

[ScottRNelson]

I just went through this about a month ago with my ST2.  The chain had 13,000 miles on it and there was a definite tight spot.  I didn't bother changing the sprockets because there was no significant wear on them.

The best way that I know of to check sprocket wear is to rotate the rear wheel forward for a bit and then backward.  If you can hear the difference, then the teeth are hooked on the sprockets and should probably be replaced.  Often only the front sprocket needs to be replaced and the rear can last through several chains.  I have a steel rear sprocket.  The Aluminum ones don't last as long.

[eyeboy]

i am listening to all this sprocket talk with great interest...

my old service guy at toronto ducati said chain and sprockets together, but he was a racer and was probably used to aluminium...

the steel ones on my bike (at 8000 miles) look pretty good, but i did want to go to a 14t front... and new chain. should i worry about the rear?

[scott_araujo]

If you want to keep the sprockets there really has to be no wear at all.  Comparison to new would probably be the best way to check.  Changing the whole mess together has become the standard, probably for several reasons.  Aluminum rear sprockets wear faster, engines put out way more power than they used to, and the smaller front sprocket is going to wear sooner than the rear if it's steel, it simply makes more revolutions since it's smaller.  Also, for really proper chain maintenance you should be measuring the distance between two pins on your chain with a weight hung from it to tension it correctly, and in several different spots on your chain to compare.  Most bikes have a spec for what is acceptable distance between pins in the manual although I didn't see one in my Monster manual.  If you just wait until the tight spots are noticeable you've probably worn the chain far enough to guarantee that you've worn the sprockets a little.

Regardless, if you want to save some coin you can just change the chain.  The most likely bad thing to happen is it will wear prematurely and then you'll have to replace the chain and sprockets.

The front sprocket will probably wear faster if they are both steel so if you planned on changing the front to a 14t you could be alright if the rear is not worn.

Also, there is one brand of master link that does not require a rivet tool to install: EK chains.  The master link has little screw pieces built into it and sort of self rivets with just a normal 8mm wrench.  This type of master link is available for many of their chains, I've even read once where someone used the EK master with a DID chain.  The master link is pricey at $15 but way cheaper than a good rivet tool.  I've looked it up on the web and didn't find anyone who had a bad experience with it.

Scott

[eyeboy]

If you want to keep the sprockets there really has to be no wear at all.  Comparison to new would probably be the best way to check.  Changing the whole mess together has become the standard, probably for several reasons.  Aluminum rear sprockets wear faster, engines put out way more power than they used to, and the smaller front sprocket is going to wear sooner than the rear if it's steel, it simply makes more revolutions since it's smaller.  Also, for really proper chain maintenance you should be measuring the distance between two pins on your chain with a weight hung from it to tension it correctly, and in several different spots on your chain to compare.  Most bikes have a spec for what is acceptable distance between pins in the manual although I didn't see one in my Monster manual.  If you just wait until the tight spots are noticeable you've probably worn the chain far enough to guarantee that you've worn the sprockets a little.

Regardless, if you want to save some coin you can just change the chain.  The most likely bad thing to happen is it will wear prematurely and then you'll have to replace the chain and sprockets.

The front sprocket will probably wear faster if they are both steel so if you planned on changing the front to a 14t you could be alright if the rear is not worn.

Also, there is one brand of master link that does not require a rivet tool to install: EK chains.  The master link has little screw pieces built into it and sort of self rivets with just a normal 8mm wrench.  This type of master link is available for many of their chains, I've even read once where someone used the EK master with a DID chain.  The master link is pricey at $15 but way cheaper than a good rivet tool.  I've looked it up on the web and didn't find anyone who had a bad experience with it.

Scott

thanks!