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Author Topic: reposition rear brake?  (Read 1892 times)
erkishhorde
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« on: August 07, 2009, 06:05:12 PM »

Anyone know of a way to rotate/ reposition the rear brake on the old monsters? I'm getting kinda annoyed with having my brake be uspside-down and having to take the rear wheel off anytime I need to open the bleeder because it's on the bottom and lets air in otherwise. The mounting bolts are frozen too so I can't just remove the caliper either.  Undecided
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ErkZ NOT in SLO w/ his '95 m900!
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kopfjäger
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« Reply #1 on: August 07, 2009, 07:39:13 PM »

No FHE, but I would think you could use a different bracket?
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bdfinally
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« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2009, 06:14:44 AM »

Wouldn't it be easier to "unfreeze" the bolts? Try some PB Blaster.
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Speeddog
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« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2009, 06:25:22 AM »

I'm pretty sure that with an 'up' style caliper bracket and the appropriate hose, you'd be all set.

Duck-Stew would likely know for sure...
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erkishhorde
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« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2009, 02:21:34 PM »

Yeah, that's what I'm looking for, an "up style caliper bracket." But I've never seen one. Unfreezing the bolts is only a one time fix. I'd still have to take the caliper off every time I wanted to bleed or change pads.
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ErkZ NOT in SLO w/ his '95 m900!
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red baron
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« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2009, 02:54:18 PM »

Make life easy and do the bleeding with the caliper off the bike, just put an old pad or use the old rotor you've got hanging around  cheeky and then mount it to the bike when you're done.
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« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2009, 04:04:22 PM »

749/999 SBK guys spend about $150 to mount the caliper on the bottom instead of the top.  Silly how the grass is always greener.... Grin
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bdfinally
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« Reply #7 on: August 08, 2009, 06:57:56 PM »

Yeah, that's what I'm looking for, an "up style caliper bracket." But I've never seen one. Unfreezing the bolts is only a one time fix. I'd still have to take the caliper off every time I wanted to bleed or change pads.

2002 900 was the first year I could find with it, #825.1.030.1A. The brake line is 619.4.018.1A.

Looks like cost is $112 for the holder and $53 for the line.

http://www.ducatiomaha.com/products.asp

Mine is mounted below too and I just take it off, bungee the thing on the top of the tire and use one of these...works like a charm.

http://www.toolsource.com/automotive-tuneup-brake-bleeding-p-104992.html?osCsid=tsd4gq9b5shepjf23qprutklq0
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weemonster
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« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2009, 02:52:55 PM »

My m600's caliper is down the way never had the problem you mention with air when bleeding.
The 900's have the up the way caliper.
or theres a dp kit 16181.
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junior varsity
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« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2009, 06:47:56 AM »

heh heh heh....

Should have found this awhile ago. My M900 had the standard 6:00 o'clock brake mount.

NICHOLS MFG makes/made a billet 12:00 o'clock brake mount.

Best part of this, was it was made for supersports or what not that had the same setup, and the 17mm rear axle, thus it was a direct bolt on for me, no shims, no nothing. Put it on, and got a new rear brake line, and I was done.

I recommend the folks out of Spiegler to get your single custom length line from. It can be in a great variety of colors, is reasonably priced, and is braided stainless. Assembly/Shipping is prompt to boot.
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KEH
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« Reply #10 on: August 15, 2009, 04:50:57 PM »

Besides the bleeding issue, is there an advantage mounting it one way vs. the other, performance or otherwise?
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junior varsity
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GT1k, 99 M900(V), 98 M900(W), 00 M900S, 02 748E/R


« Reply #11 on: August 15, 2009, 05:03:43 PM »

Yes, north-side mounting keeps it out of more road debris fling-up, and as you mentioned (and many others) the top side makes bleeding 1,135.34x easier to bleed. There's also less brake line. I'm going to go on and call that "weight savings" just to be an ass.
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