DIY Painting Tips

[Sgt_H]

Don't use chemical strippers on plastic unless you find one that's recommended. It will undoubtedly make it swell because of all the bare plastic.

I'd sand with 400 dry.

Thanks ducpainter.  That's kind of what I was leaning towards but didn't want to screw it up either way. 

[ducpainter]

Thanks ducpainter.  That's kind of what I was leaning towards but didn't want to screw it up either way. 

Keep in mind that a lot of sanding will change the light texture, if any, on plastic.

As always when sanding let the paper do the work.

[COWBOY]

I've been with my son in the hospital....

best wishes to you and yours.

[ducpainter]

best wishes to you and yours.

Thanks...

all is well.

[MotoCreations]

Q in regard to hi-temp paints.  Specifically for engine use. (not talking the VHT rattlecan stuff)  What out there is available commercially for use with an airgun? (thus it could be tinted or mixed to color match)  Recommendations?  Any recommendations to get good bonding of paint to factory engine paint? (normally application is to strip factory paint and prep bare case but without disassembly -- or too much disassembly)

Glad to hear your son is doing ok!

[ducpainter]

Q in regard to hi-temp paints.  Specifically for engine use. (not talking the VHT rattlecan stuff)  What out there is available commercially for use with an airgun? (thus it could be tinted or mixed to color match)  Recommendations?  Any recommendations to get good bonding of paint to factory engine paint? (normally application is to strip factory paint and prep bare case but without disassembly -- or too much disassembly)

Glad to hear your son is doing ok!

Check out Sherwin-Williams   'Flame-Proof'. It is available in many standard colors and can be custom mixed. It has a 1200⁰
rating.
For engine cases I don't get too crazy because they don't get hot enough to actually affect automotive urethanes. There are several adhesion promoters available to make the prep easier. The key is whether the factory coating is in good condition. Also as always with coatings....clean...clean....clean.

[A.duc.H.duc.]

So Ducpainter, I'm in the process of painting up my engine, and I'm going to remove all the covers (alternator, clutch side, cam bearing, and valve covers) and paint those seperately, so I can bake them a little to cure (is that a good idea?) Are you saying I can use regular paint on these parts and not the ceramic "engine paint" that really would help me out. Also, I'd like to paint the cases as they're a little beat up, but I really didn't want to split them and dissassemble the motor. Do you think that regular automotive urethane rattle cans would hold up on the cases and jugs?

Justin

[Juan]

best wishes to you and yours.

++++ 1 

[ducpainter]

So Ducpainter, I'm in the process of painting up my engine, and I'm going to remove all the covers (alternator, clutch side, cam bearing, and valve covers) and paint those seperately, so I can bake them a little to cure (is that a good idea?) Are you saying I can use regular paint on these parts and not the ceramic "engine paint" that really would help me out. Also, I'd like to paint the cases as they're a little beat up, but I really didn't want to split them and dissassemble the motor. Do you think that regular automotive urethane rattle cans would hold up on the cases and jugs?

Justin

If by regular paint you mean catalyzed urethanes....then yes.  Engine cases never reach the destructive temp of those coatings, which is about 350⁰ F.

Cylinders are a different story depending on the engine type.

I've used the same stuff on air cooled cylinders and not had complaints. YMMV

See the posts above about S-W products...HOK also makes a great hi temp black if that's your choice of color.

[Sgt_H]

I've been with my son in the hospital....

I'll catch up...

doh, I missed a whole string of posts and didn't see this right away. Hope your is doing well!

[ducpainter]

Thanks to all the well wishers.

He's doing fine.

It is scary when your little one needs surgery though.

[Juan]

Thanks to all the well wishers.

He's doing fine.

It is scary when your little one needs surgery though.

  Surgery...!!  will be praying bro..!!  take care..!

[DuciD03]

Yipes; hope all is well for you and yours  ...

added this Q from a new spacific thread below; some great pointers here, thx ...

Has anyone repainted & clear coated a "Dark" tank? and the other parts, the front fender, fairing, rear seat cowel?

I'm thinking of touching up, then clear gloss, semi-gloss or satin clear-coat laquour urithane finish to protect the Dark tank.  The stock paint seems to be easily scratched, minor scratches on the seat side with a minor dimple per side on the tank show up with the white primer coat.  Thoughts, experiances & suggestions appreciated.

Cheers DuciD  [moto]

[ducpainter]

Yipes; hope all is well for you and yours  ...

added this Q from a new spacific thread below; some great pointers here, thx ...

Has anyone repainted & clear coated a "Dark" tank? and the other parts, the front fender, fairing, rear seat cowel?

I'm thinking of touching up, then clear gloss, semi-gloss or satin clear-coat laquour urithane finish to protect the Dark tank.  The stock paint seems to be easily scratched, minor scratches on the seat side with a minor dimple per side on the tank show up with the white primer coat.  Thoughts, experiances & suggestions appreciated.

Cheers DuciD  [moto]

I always clear them.

Sometimes I use a pre-mixed flat, and other times I'll custom flatten a gloss.

The problem in trying to add a clear coat to a stock dark is you need to sand to get adhesion, but you can't sand the stock single stage metallic dark without changing the appearance of the metallic.

You will need to paint and clear.

[804monster]

so you never use a single stage with a flattening agent to do dark jobs?