DIY Painting Tips

[EEL]

So I read through the thread but I'm still a little confused. I've never painted anything in my life so please be "simple" with the lingo. I lowsided my bike and scratched up my clutch cover. The scratches are only 2 inches long and 1 inch wide.

I can barely see the damage from 10 feet so instead of buying a new clutch engine cover, I was thinking of paintmatching the existing engine color. But to perform this work, I  have some conditions and questions

1) Since I have no paint tools, I'd prefer to just just rattlecan if possible. If not thats fine, I could probably borrow someones paint tools.
2) I'd prefer to paint directly on the bike. I would rather mask everything off than take off the clutch cover to do the work.
3) How do I prep the surface? Do need to sand off all the scratches first? What grit should I use? Can you provide some insight into this? Do I need to polish the surface first and then roughen prior to spray?
4) Is there a process to paint matching the existing engine color (mixing different colors together etc.) or is the traditional ducati silver a common color I can buy off the shelf. If the latter, can you provide a paint code and brand to match?

[ducpainter]

So I read through the thread but I'm still a little confused. I've never painted anything in my life so please be "simple" with the lingo. I lowsided my bike and scratched up my clutch cover. The scratches are only 2 inches long and 1 inch wide.

I can barely see the damage from 10 feet so instead of buying a new clutch engine cover, I was thinking of paintmatching the existing engine color. But to perform this work, I  have some conditions and questions

1) Since I have no paint tools, I'd prefer to just just rattlecan if possible. If not thats fine, I could probably borrow someones paint tools.
2) I'd prefer to paint directly on the bike. I would rather mask everything off than take off the clutch cover to do the work.
3) How do I prep the surface? Do need to sand off all the scratches first? What grit should I use? Can you provide some insight into this? Do I need to polish the surface first and then roughen prior to spray?
4) Is there a process to paint matching the existing engine color (mixing different colors together etc.) or is the traditional ducati silver a common color I can buy off the shelf. If the latter, can you provide a paint code and brand to match?

1) Rattle can is not particularly solvent/oil resistant, but many people use them. It will stain if you spill.

2) I'm assuming you have a wet clutch. Masking will work. Cleaning the surfaces thoroughly will be the key to success.

3)The scratches must be sanded out or they will 'telegraph' through the fresh paint. The grit used depends on the extent of the damage...whether any filling or priming is necessary. I can't really tell without seeing the damage. Can you see aluminum?

4) I've never come up with an exact match. My opinion is that Ducati uses a generic silver engine enamel. I don't believe there are any color chips, and I know it's not the same as any tank/frame color.

[AndrewNS]

If you have to do it with rattle cans, try a can of Dupli-Color high performance silver wheel coating. The code on the can is CWP101000, and it's sold at a lot of auto parts stores (NAPA, etc) up here in Canada. It's not a match, but you do have to look twice to catch the difference. 

[A.duc.H.duc.]

If you have to do it with rattle cans, try a can of Dupli-Color high performance silver wheel coating. The code on the can is CWP101000, and it's sold at a lot of auto parts stores (NAPA, etc) up here in Canada. It's not a match, but you do have to look twice to catch the difference. 

That's a good tip!

[scott_araujo]

So I read through the thread but I'm still a little confused. I've never painted anything in my life so please be "simple" with the lingo. I lowsided my bike and scratched up my clutch cover. The scratches are only 2 inches long and 1 inch wide.

Another thought, if it's just the raised area on the clutch cover sand down the outer circle of flat surface and then polish.  Make sure you sand enough to get rid of the scratches and then progress to something like 400 grit.  After that a polishing bonnet on an electric drill and some polishing compound and you're in business.  It take a little control not to sand past where you want and you may want to clear coat the exposed aluminum when your done, but polishing aluminum is pretty easy.  If you don't clear coat you may have to repolish by hand every few weeks with a fine compound and a rag to keep a great shine.

I only mention this because it avoids having to paint.

Scott

[psycledelic]

How do you prep the belt covers for paint? 

Thanks

I got great advice on the old site and my belt covers and sprocket cover turned out really well. 
After I finished cutting them the way I wanted, I ruffed them up a little and applied 4 coats of Krylon spraypaint for plastic.  I waited one day between each coat and let the parts sit for four days after the final coat was applied to let it cure.  I then applied 3 coats of clear coat spray using the same intervals.  I was really pleased with the finish and after 2 months, they are holding up great.  Turned out to be a nice $25 mod.

I would post pics, but can't seem to get them to transfer. 

[arai_speed]

Here are my paint questions.  I have a 2007 Pearl White monster that I bought used.  The previous owner had a heated vest plug that scratched up the tank.

Picture 1

Picture 2

Can the scratches shown in the pictures above be fixed with the Color-rite touch up pens?  Would I need to lightly sand the affected area before using the touch up pens?  Are the color-rite touch up pens a waste of money? ($16 for white, $16 for pearl, $10 for clear).

Thanks.

[ducpainter]

Here are my paint questions.  I have a 2007 Pearl White monster that I bought used.  The previous owner had a heated vest plug that scratched up the tank.

Picture 1

Picture 2

Can the scratches shown in the pictures above be fixed with the Color-rite touch up pens?  Would I need to lightly sand the affected area before using the touch up pens?  Are the color-rite touch up pens a waste of money? ($16 for white, $16 for pearl, $10 for clear).

Thanks.

Fixed is the operative word here.

Lets use invisible and better instead.

Invisible....no way.

Better...depends on whether you are looking for invisible...or just better.

Pearls are tough to repair...period.

The paint cost also becomes subjective.

[ducatiz]

Ducpainter,

1) What do you think about heating up rattle cans before use?

years ago, a painter told me to put the can in a bucket of tap-hot water (so around 110 max?)  and let it sit for a minute or two before using it.  Said it made the pigment flow better, etc.

I've always done this and my gut tells me it works, but does it really?  it seems to make a difference when shaking up the can.

2)  Preval sprayers.  Good/bad/ugly?

I use them with Lauer Duracoat for firearms and have experimented with some bike parts (same materials).  But they are pretty basic in terms of throwing the material.

Is there a better solution than a Preval can that doesn't require a big setup?

3)  what is the smallest air paint setup you have?  I have two compressors, both capable of decent air, smaller one is 5cfm/90psi and big one is 8cfm/90psi.  the smaller one is a roofer's type pancake compressor, but i could easily put a line filter for a paint sprayer. 

thx

[ducpainter]

Ducpainter,

1) What do you think about heating up rattle cans before use?

years ago, a painter told me to put the can in a bucket of tap-hot water (so around 110 max?)  and let it sit for a minute or two before using it.  Said it made the pigment flow better, etc.

I've always done this and my gut tells me it works, but does it really?  it seems to make a difference when shaking up the can.

2)  Preval sprayers.  Good/bad/ugly?

I use them with Lauer Duracoat for firearms and have experimented with some bike parts (same materials).  But they are pretty basic in terms of throwing the material.

Is there a better solution than a Preval can that doesn't require a big setup?

3)  what is the smallest air paint setup you have?  I have two compressors, both capable of decent air, smaller one is 5cfm/90psi and big one is 8cfm/90psi.  the smaller one is a roofer's type pancake compressor, but i could easily put a line filter for a paint sprayer. 

thx

Paint does flow better when warm. If ambient temps are above 70 deg I don't bother with materials mixed for gun usage, but they can be controlled with reducers. For rattle cans I can definitely see the advantage.

I have a Preval....I'd rather use an airbrush. Prevals have no adjustability just like a rattle can. edit: Many PBE suppliers now have a system to load 2K components into a rattle can. Regardless of anything else the materials are superior to non activated rattle can products.

Compressor suitability depends on the consumption of the spraygun. If you are using HVLP equipment they can have consumption rates close to 20cfm @ 40psi. The guns I use are 9 cfm @ 40 psi @ the wall regulator. Your larger unit will handle that gun, but the guns are $400 each. What do you intend to use?

A quick test is to set your regulator to 40 psi with an open hi flow fitting. If the compressor will maintain 40 psi you should be good to go. Hi flow fittings and a minimum air line diameter of 3/8" are critical to HVLP gun performance.

[ducatiz]

Compressor suitability depends on the consumption of the spraygun. If you are using HVLP equipment they can have consumption rates close to 20cfm @ 40psi. The guns I use are 9 cfm @ 40 psi @ the wall regulator. Your larger unit will handle that gun, but the guns are $400 each. What do you intend to use?

A quick test is to set your regulator to 40 psi with an open hi flow fitting. If the compressor will maintain 40 psi you should be good to go. Hi flow fittings and a minimum air line diameter of 3/8" are critical to HVLP gun performance.

i am looking at those small touchup type gravity fed guns, i.e. 0.5l res.  is that what you're using?

there is a DeVilbiss kit that I am looking at..  gun and accessoris around $150

Devilbiss PROMOTIONAL SPRAY GUN KIT that includes a FinishLine 3 HVLP Gravity Feed Spray Gun with a 1.3mm Fluid Tip installed in the Gun, plus 1.5mm and 1.8mm Fluid Tips, HAV-501 Regulator with Gauge, Gun Hook and a Gun Lube Sample.
The included 1.3, 1.5, and 1.8mm Fluid Tips will allow you to spray a wide spectrum of coatings! You'll be able to achieve Professional Spraying Performance with Basecoats, Clear Coats, Single Stage, Sealers, 2K Primers and More! This Spray gun has a True 1-Liter Aluminum Gravity Feed Cup with Filter. This gun can operate with a 3 HP Compressor, and 23 PSI inlet pressure yields 10 PSI at the cap.

[ducpainter]

i am looking at those small touchup type gravity fed guns, i.e. 0.5l res.  is that what you're using?

there is a DeVilbiss kit that I am looking at..  gun and accessoris around $150

I don't use a touch up gun...I'm looking at them. Metallics are sensitive to many factors to achieve a good match. One is fluid tip size, and the small guns use a small tip. Solids much less so.

I use the finishline gun for sealer and color. I use an Iwata LPH-400 LVG for clear.

The 23 psi number is at the gun....not the wall.

I doubt you'll get it to spray too well at 23 psi at the wall due to line loss.

That said they are not bad sprayguns. They do use between 9+ and 13+ cfm depending on config

Specs here http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products.php?pg=7

[ducatiz]

thanks for the info. 

i need something that is general purpose for small jobs.  like a rifle barrel or a side cover and 90% of what i'll spray is Lauer Duracoat.  do you think that's a good choice gun for that?

[ducpainter]

thanks for the info. 

i need something that is general purpose for small jobs.  like a rifle barrel or a side cover and 90% of what i'll spray is Lauer Duracoat.  do you think that's a good choice gun for that?

I checked the Lauer site and they don't offer much for online tech info so it's kind of tough to tell. One thing I did learn is the film is not very thick.

I think a smaller gun would be better. Pricing is not as attractive.

For small jobs a 1.3mm nozzle is max.

The Finish Line guns have a minimum nozzle size of 1.3mm.

If you reduce fluid feed the reasonably priced FLG will do what you need and has the capability to do just about any project with the available larger nozzles.

[ducatiz]

I checked the Lauer site and they don't offer much for online tech info so it's kind of tough to tell. One thing I did learn is the film is not very thick.

yeah, they are pretty cagey about their formulation.  i don't think it is patented, it is just their "special sauce."

It's a two-part material, pigment and hardener.  Smells remarkably like many 2-part adhesives, but it is not light/uv sensitive like epoxy paints are.  They also sell a thinner which I believe is MEK.

I think a smaller gun would be better. Pricing is not as attractive.

For small jobs a 1.3mm nozzle is max.

The Finish Line guns have a minimum nozzle size of 1.3mm.

If you reduce fluid feed the reasonably priced FLG will do what you need and has the capability to do just about any project with the available larger nozzles.

Since I already have the compressor, I think I am good to go, I don't mind buying something that's going to last.  I've probably painted a dozen things in the last year and it would have cost me 10x the price of a more expensive gun to do it the way I wanted.

I actually have experience with larger HVLP car painting, but that was a very simplistic setup in a converted greenhouse in the back yard -- painting frame-off VWs for resto work.  But I think I was more lucky that knowledgeable, I just asked the paint shop guys a lot of questions and went from there.  Old VWs didn't have nice things like clear coats or metallic finishes...!