DIY Painting Tips

[Ddan]

I'm pretty sure all rattle can stuff needs 7 days.

You realize you could end this pain.

Yes, I do.  I'm stubborn, in case you hadn't noticed   

My plan now is to chemically strip the paint, clean and sand whatever is left, and repaint.  I'm gonna try two coats of paint within the two hour window they recommend, and then the clear also within the two hours.  What could go wrong?

[ducpainter]

Yes, I do.  I'm stubborn, in case you hadn't noticed   

My plan now is to chemically strip the paint, clean and sand whatever is left, and repaint.  I'm gonna try two coats of paint within the two hour window they recommend, and then the clear also within the two hours.  What could go wrong?

You...

stubborn?

[suzyj]

It's peeling off in sheets.  Is this still from the original non-cured problem, or am I doing something else wrong?  

Many paints have minimum recoat times and maximum times as well.

When you left the initial coat for five days and then recoated, the solvent in the new coat destroyed the original coat, rather than blending in with it.

With most paints, you don't wait more than ~12 hours between coats.

[J5]

Yes, I do.  I'm stubborn, in case you hadn't noticed   

My plan now is to chemically strip the paint, clean and sand whatever is left, and repaint.  I'm gonna try two coats of paint within the two hour window they recommend, and then the clear also within the two hours.  What could go wrong?

from experience

wheels that have sand casting are a PITA to strip as the paint sticks in all the holes

sand down and paint , and as mentioned above paint within hours

i prob wouldnt suggest 2pac over rattle can

[Ddan]

Many paints have minimum recoat times and maximum times as well.

When you left the initial coat for five days and then recoated, the solvent in the new coat destroyed the original coat, rather than blending in with it.

With most paints, you don't wait more than ~12 hours between coats.

The can spec'd recoat within 2 hrs. or after 48.  I think because the original coats went on with low temps and high humidity the paint never stuck.  When it started peeling I could smell solvents so I'm guessing it never cured right.

from experience

wheels that have sand casting are a PITA to strip as the paint sticks in all the holes

sand down and paint , and as mentioned above paint within hours

i prob wouldnt suggest 2pac over rattle can

Too late 
I wound up stripping to bare metal.  A brass brush worked pretty well to get the original coat off once it had been softened enough by the stripper.


I recoated with the adhesion promoter, primer, color and clear.  This morning it looks pretty good, time will tell how it cures.

Nate didn't like the idea of the 2-part clear over enamel either but it seems to be doing OK on the frame I finished earlier...

[ducpainter]

The reason I don't like 2K over synthetic enamel is the enamel takes a long time for solvents to evaporate due to the quality of the solvent. The solvents used in bc/cc systems are better matched for the wet on wet process.

2K paints 'skin', or partial cure, quickly and trap the solvents which will affect adhesion. They don't fully cure for 90 days. You can make a fingernail mark in rattle can for a month due to the slow evaporation rate of the low quality solvents. I'm still skeptical about his process.

Had Peggy used more compatible materials his wet on wet on wet job would work better.

BTW...most local PBE stores will sell you any grade of material in an aerosol can...either 1K or 2K...probly not in Cali.

You don't need to use Rustoleum just to get a rattle can.

[Ddan]

The reason I don't like 2K over synthetic enamel is the enamel takes a long time for solvents to evaporate due to the quality of the solvent. The solvents used in bc/cc systems are better matched for the wet on wet process.

2K paints 'skin', or partial cure, quickly and trap the solvents which will affect adhesion. They don't fully cure for 90 days. You can make a fingernail mark in rattle can for a month due to the slow evaporation rate of the low quality solvents. I'm still skeptical about his process.

Had Peggy used more compatible materials his wet on wet on wet job would work better.

BTW...most local PBE stores will sell you any grade of material in an aerosol can...either 1K or 2K...probly not in Cali.

You don't need to use Rustoleum just to get a rattle can.

I didn't know this...

[ducpainter]

I didn't know this...

It's why you ask questions...

first.

[Ddan]

It's why you ask questions...

first.

But that takes all the adventure out of it   

[ducpainter]

But that takes all the adventure out of it   

frustration does not equal adventure...

[Ddan]

frustration does not equal adventure...

Practice is when things go well, experience is when they don't   

[ducpainter]

Practice is when things go well, experience is when they don't   

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

[TitanMonsterS4R]

Rattle canned a pair of gold anodized CRG levers and Rizoma reservoirs with Dupli-Color Engine enamel.  Now looking to return to their original state.  Can I just soak them in paint thinner to remove the rattle can black without damaging the anodized gold?

[ducpainter]

Rattle canned a pair of gold anodized CRG levers and Rizoma reservoirs with Dupli-Color Engine enamel.  Now looking to return to their original state.  Can I just soak them in paint thinner to remove the rattle can black without damaging the anodized gold?

Probably.

Thinner won't hurt anodizing.

[koko64]

This is making me think twice about painting my wheels in winter, or getting too fancy with them.
I will lightly sand, prepsol, paint with mag/gold canned wheel paint (kind of close to the Ducati silver/gold), and leave to cure in the hot aussie sun,
Or
Just pay the man!
DP, pity I'm so far away. It's better for me to tune a few bikes and use the money to pay a pro. I'm just about done DIY painting after all the half assed paintwork I've done in my racing years.