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DIY Painting Tips

Started by ducpainter, January 27, 2008, 08:36:03 AM

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SpikeC

#870
November 23, 2014, 01:17:52 PM
 Greeting oh Great Paint Guru! My question is about an aluminum fuel tank that I just acquired for my Bimota. I am in the process of sanding the grinding marks off of it and when I get it to a satin finish that I like I was thinking that clear coating it might be a good idea.
I know that some companies clear over their polished engine case covers, so is this possible for a DYI type? If so what sort of stuff should I use?
Spike Cornelius
  PDX
   2009 M1100S Assorted blingy odds and ends(now gone)
2008 Bimota DB5R  woo-Hoo!
   1965 T100SC

ducpainter

#871
November 23, 2014, 02:02:55 PM
You can...although I think most companies are clear anodizing.

Painted aluminum requires either an epoxy primer or a chemical prep called Alodine which gives the aluminum a yellow streaky look, chromate coating, which obviously is not what you want.

POR makes a clear that they claim will stick to polished metal with the proper prep..no FHE...but their products typically work. You'll need access to a spray gun and compressor to use it.   http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC_p_45.html  It's an activated product so use the appropriate safety gear.

This is a link to the prep chemical... http://www.por15.com/AP-120-Metal-Prep_p_18.html ...this one doesn't stain the aluminum.

"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


SpikeC

#872
November 23, 2014, 03:53:20 PM
Thanks, good info. As I will not be coating on polished aluminum, but rather a satin or brushed finish, does that have any impact on whether the primer is necessary? BTW, speaking of alodine, back in '68 I was working in a plating shop and doing alodine on parts for Boing. They should have been anodized, but for budgetary reasons they went with the cheaper method!
Think about that next time that you fly!
Spike Cornelius
  PDX
   2009 M1100S Assorted blingy odds and ends(now gone)
2008 Bimota DB5R  woo-Hoo!
   1965 T100SC

ducpainter

#873
November 23, 2014, 04:03:22 PM
I'd still use the prep.

It isn't that expensive, and aluminum can be tough for adhesion, and corrosion is always an issue. Think about it the next time you fly. ;D

You could always call POR and ask them... 800-457-6715
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


red baron

#874
November 26, 2014, 07:12:10 PM
Quote from: ducpainter on November 23, 2014, 04:03:22 PM
I'd still use the prep.

It isn't that expensive, and aluminum can be tough for adhesion, and corrosion is always an issue. Think about it the next time you fly. ;D

You could always call POR and ask them... 800-457-6715

I'm with dp, alodine would be a great addition to any paint system. [thumbsup]
"I believe there are more instances of the abridgment of freedom of the people by gradual and silent encroachments of those in power than by violent and sudden usurpations... James Madison

MonsterMadMarty

#875
December 02, 2014, 03:45:40 AM
Hi DP,

I have a tank that the previous owner had professionally painted 2K satin black with no clear coat. He then added some pretty crappy decals which are now starting to peal on there own so should be easy to remove. I wish to add a red S4RS style centre stripe and new decal.  What's should I do? Should I wet sand the entire tank with say a 1500 grit, apply stripe and decal and then just clear coat it? Or is there more to it?

Cheers,  Marty

The tank as is:


The decal stripe I wish to add (it's been pre-cut for me):
RIDING - 1993 M900 x 2; 2007 M400; 2007 Factory 900XR

Recently purchased: Fire damaged 2001 S4!

My greatest fear in life is that when I die my better half will sell my Ducati's and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

ducpainter

#876
December 02, 2014, 04:03:11 AM
If there's no metallic in the black that is just what you'd do, except you don't need to go as fine as 1500. 1000 is about as fine as I'd recommend as the paint on the tank is completely cured and the clear needs 'teeth' for adhesion. I'd probably use P800.

Keep in mind the black will be glossy unless you use a matte clear.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


MonsterMadMarty

#877
December 02, 2014, 04:08:20 AM
THANK YOU  [thumbsup]
RIDING - 1993 M900 x 2; 2007 M400; 2007 Factory 900XR

Recently purchased: Fire damaged 2001 S4!

My greatest fear in life is that when I die my better half will sell my Ducati's and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

ducpainter

#878
December 02, 2014, 04:48:54 AM
No problem.

Another word of warning... be gentle when you sand the black, especially near the edges. You have no idea how much paint was applied, and chasing cut throughs will test your color matching skills.

Blacks are not all the same.

If the paint job is 'peely' you can fix that with additional applications of clear.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


MonsterMadMarty

#879
December 03, 2014, 02:25:39 AM
Another question!

How thick is Powdercoat? Prior to getting coated should I put bolts in to stop the threads getting coated, or is it best to tap them once I get it back? Plus is it possible to mark areas such as the inner part of the triple tree?

Cheers again  [thumbsup]
RIDING - 1993 M900 x 2; 2007 M400; 2007 Factory 900XR

Recently purchased: Fire damaged 2001 S4!

My greatest fear in life is that when I die my better half will sell my Ducati's and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

ducpainter

#880
December 03, 2014, 03:05:13 AM
The powder coater should plug threaded holes...tell him you expect him to.

Special tape is required for masking because of the bake temps.

You should show them/mark them and they'll tape it...

if they're any good.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


MonsterMadMarty

#881
December 03, 2014, 04:56:37 AM
Quote from: ducpainter on December 03, 2014, 03:05:13 AM

Special tape is required for masking because of the bake temps.


Do you know what the tape is called? I would prefer to prep it myself so I know all will be good.
RIDING - 1993 M900 x 2; 2007 M400; 2007 Factory 900XR

Recently purchased: Fire damaged 2001 S4!

My greatest fear in life is that when I die my better half will sell my Ducati's and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

ducpainter

#882
December 03, 2014, 05:05:55 AM
Google high temp tape for powder coating.

I'd avoid headed bolts that stick up above the surface for plugging threaded holes as there is a danger of pulling powder from around the hole, and coverage will be an issue.

They make silicone rubber plugs for that purpose. I've used allen set screws with liquid paint, but powder builds more and you might not get a wrench in them afterwards.

The guy doing the coating should have all the supplies. Maybe you could talk to him about you doing the masking/plugging with his materials.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


herm

#883
December 03, 2014, 02:45:22 PM
why can't i get a nice flat coat of paint on my new walls?


seriously!
Never wrestle with pigs. You both get dirty, and the pigs like it...

ducpainter

#884
December 03, 2014, 03:00:59 PM
Quote from: herm on December 03, 2014, 02:45:22 PM
why can't i get a nice flat coat of paint on my new walls?


seriously!
Hire a painter... ;D

It probably has something to do with your technique. You have to figure out how to leave a wet edge. It typically involves moving very quickly across the wall, and not rolling things out too much and then starting a new wet pass.

Are you using flat or eggshell?

Keep in mind interior house painting is not my forte`. I have a few spots in the house that aren't exactly to my liking.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


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