DIY Painting Tips

[SpikeC]

 OK, I have acquired the POR products to clear my tank, both primer and top coat. I have found that a random orbital sander makes a very pleasant frosted finish on the ally and compliments the hand work that is still evident in the surface. I have a set of factory letters for the tank that I will apply the finish over. POR states that the clear can be sprayed or brushed on and is self leveling, and as I am going for a frosted finish I am thinking of rolling it on.
Right now I am dealing with the chest/head cold from hell so will wait a bit before continuing...

I'd still use the prep.

It isn't that expensive, and aluminum can be tough for adhesion, and corrosion is always an issue. Think about it the next time you fly.

You could always call POR and ask them... 800-457-6715

[ducpainter]

Remember to wear gloves when handling the tank during and after you prime/etch it.

The oil in your skin will affect adhesion and cause corrosion.

Interested to see your results. I think the roller finish will flatten out.

Do they say how many coats?

[red baron]

a foam roller usually leaves less texture

[SpikeC]

 Thanks for the tips, they say 2 medium wet coats, 15 to 25 minutes apart. my only concern is that the coating does not attack the decals.

[ducpainter]

You'll be fine with any OEM tank decals.

I have had issues with Ducati Performance decals, and some other repros.

[SpikeC]

 Thanks, DP, these are OEM so I should be good!

[Willthedub]

Hey D.P

I've been scanning this thread to see if this has come up already but couldn't see anything (probably didn't look hard enough)!

I'm getting my 695ie engine stripped down to bits to get it re painted, but what's the best way to clean it up? First thought was to get it sand blasted then a friend said cover it in paint stripper an stick the parts in plastic bags, or should I just scotch it all up as it is? I've got paint flaking off around the rear engine rod mount I really want to get it all off and start over?

[ducpainter]

I wouldn't sand blast.

Chemical stripper is effective, but messy.

Soda blasting is slower than sand, but there's less danger of contamination inside with stuff that will hurt your motor.

I'd only strip the parts that were peeling, and sand the stuff that wasn't.

Etch the bare aluminum.

[Willthedub]

Thank D.P. 

[Darth_Awesome]

I've got race body work that I'm currently working on getting ready for paint. Getting the fit just right and what not. My intentions are to do the same silver that was on the old 75 900ss but with white number plates on the front and tail.

Now my issue is that I've only ever done solid single colors. So should I be doing the white first on the upper and tail, taping my lines and masking off, then spraying the silver on top? Will there need to be any scuffing necessary for white sections that will be soon painted the silver? Or should it be reversed and silver first, white last?

Also do you recommend vinyl tape at all for doing pinstriping? For instance a black stripe separating the two colors.

[ducpainter]

I've got race body work that I'm currently working on getting ready for paint. Getting the fit just right and what not. My intentions are to do the same silver that was on the old 75 900ss but with white number plates on the front and tail.

Now my issue is that I've only ever done solid single colors. So should I be doing the white first on the upper and tail, taping my lines and masking off, then spraying the silver on top? Will there need to be any scuffing necessary for white sections that will be soon painted the silver? Or should it be reversed and silver first, white last?

Also do you recommend vinyl tape at all for doing pinstriping? For instance a black stripe separating the two colors.

You can spray either color first. There will be less masking if you spray the white first.

What are you using for materials? That will determine how much sanding and or dry time will be required.

Vinyl for a border stripe around number plates is the only time I recommend it.

[Darth_Awesome]

Will be going to the local paint shop. They do the whole ppg line. My next determining factor is because it's just a track bike and I don't want to end up with $400 just in paint, whether I should go with the cheaper omni line or the middle of the road dextron stuff.

[ducpainter]

Will be going to the local paint shop. They do the whole ppg line. My next determining factor is because it's just a track bike and I don't want to end up with $400 just in paint, whether I should go with the cheaper omni line or the middle of the road dextron stuff.

Ok, so you'll be using professional materials.

Omni works well for single colors, but not as well with 2-tone jobs. I've had issues with it getting funky near tape lines. If you go slowly enough and let each coat dry enough you'll be fine. The other issue with Omni is it is pretty low solids and doesn't cover as well as Deltron, which I think is what you meant by dextron. Product code for the higher priced spread is DBC.

The plus side to the DBC is it covers well and matches better.

Last I bought paint from my supplier Omni was very reasonably priced where DBC was at least $80/pint and over $100 for reds.

Use a white sealer. It really makes most colors easier to cover.

If your 1st color dries more than 12 hours with MBC or Omni, scuff with a scotchbrite before recoating. You get 24 hours with DBC. Those numbers are somewhat flexible from experience. It's all temp/humidity dependent. These numbers are for base coats.

Single stage would obviously be a different set of parameters. Most are good to be re-coated with a light scuff after an overnight dry.

[Darth_Awesome]

If the primer on the bodywork from the manufacturer is in good condition, would you still recommend a sealer? Is it dependent on the type of primer that was originally used. I'm not sure if it's urethane or epoxy based.

[ducpainter]

I always recommend a sealer.

If you want to save, save on the paint line not on the process.