DIY Painting Tips

[booger]

Thank You Nate. I knew I asked the right guy.

The stuff you linked apparently is pretty straightforward and easy to use, so I'll use it and the SprayMax kit mentioned. Should give me a nice long-lasting and durable finish.

Also, by relaying this knowledge you have unwittingly opened new doors. I shall use this technique for all of my satin black finish needs instead of sending to the powdercoaters as I've always done in the past. Seems easier.

[ducpainter]

FTR...I don't trust powder coaters. They seem to be sloppy when it comes to process.

[Speeddog]

FTR...I don't trust powder coaters. They seem to be sloppy when it comes to process.

For steel car parts that have big bolt holes or parts like that.

If you've got a tight fitting part or threaded holes I'd not even consider it.

[ducpainter]

For steel car parts that have big bolt holes or parts like that.

If you've got a tight fitting part or threaded holes I'd not even consider it.

Not even that consideration. I can't tell you how many powdered parts that receive no care in handling, or attention to process. No phosphating, handling bare metal without gloves...there's even a guy down by the seacoast that cooks aluminum wheels in the oven @ 800 F to remove paint because it's faster than blasting. You're an engineer...what do you suppose that does to the crystalline structure?

When I worked in the fab shop I painted parts with threaded holes everywhere. Each hole was plugged before sandblasting, and plugs were removed before shipping.

[booger]

FTR...I don't trust powder coaters. They seem to be sloppy when it comes to process.

Yes. Even when you tell them you want the parts beadblasted beforehand and the threaded holes plugged, and they nod their head or otherwise acknowledge your instruction, your stuff comes out with neither one of the aforementioned done. Even if you tell them twice!

Some people watch some YouPube videos talking about how "easy" powdercoating is then they go to HF, buy cheap equipment, get an old kitchen stove and call themselves a powdercoater and do subpar work convinced they are doing it right. Even the local classic car hotrod shops that are the go-tos are not what I would call professional grade. There was only one shop in the area here and they have moved on to govt contracting work and no longer do smaller jobs for individual customers. I'm always needing to make something satin black it seems, and I think I'll just paint now.

[Speeddog]

Not even that consideration. I can't tell you how many powdered parts that receive no care in handling, or attention to process. No phosphating, handling bare metal without gloves...there's even a guy down by the seacoast that cooks aluminum wheels in the oven @ 800 F to remove paint because it's faster than blasting. You're an engineer...what do you suppose that does to the crystalline structure?

When I worked in the fab shop I painted parts with threaded holes everywhere. Each hole was plugged before sandblasting, and plugs were removed before shipping.

I have a set of wheels that were powdercoated black. Lay em down, and there's the wheel bearing laying on the ground when you pick it up.
They'll hold the bike off the ground, that is all.

The bulk of the parts powdercoated are low rent stuff, no knock on cheap stuff, it's cheap so there you go.
Modular fencing? Lawn furniture? Jackstands? Mailbox? Awesome, PC that shyt.
Airplane flap hinges, mmmm .... probably not

[booger]

Nate, one more question. I've begun to remove the factory Showa paint from the fork bottoms using 400 grit dry. It's a pretty thin paint job that comes off easily, but the mealy finish of the casting is making total and complete removal sort of impossible. The 400 dry is wearing the paint off, not removing it if that makes sense. I would like to ask you if it would be OK to use some sort of paint stripper. Preferably something I could pick up at HD hopefully, and is safe for aluminium.

If you were to say that it would be OK to just sand it best I could with the 400 dry and clean then apply the Bonderite then all the better, but my thinking is I'm going to have to take this down to bare metal. True?

Thanks Nate

[ducpainter]

That casing isn't particularly smooth, so I understand why you're having trouble...specially with 400.

I'd probably just skip to the next step if the finish that was left on there was well adhered, and not all chipped. Otherwise, any available stripper is suitable for aluminum. Just be sure to neutralize with plenty of water before the Bonderite.

[Stormm]

Hi,

i'm  searching for the right paint codes for my Blue/White 2005 S4R, especially the:

- engine cover's (altenator, valves, etc) (grey? metallic)
- crank case (silver? metallic)
- radiator en oil cooler (silver)

can someone point me in the right direction?

I found this company in the UK https://www.ebay.nl/itm/DUCATI-998-999-748-749-2002-AEROSOL-KIT-OUTER-ENGINE-CASE-SILVER/350286258078?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

Also found this: http://www.ducatimotor.it/articoli/setupcolori.htm but not sure if it matches one...

[ducpainter]

Ducati never published paint codes for those specific items that I've ever seen. That second link is a gamble, but if you're in Europe the steel grey 223.647, or metallic grey 0011 look like possibilities. Chances are the first link will be close to whatever 4V motor they matched it to.

Seeing as most Ducati parts were made in job shops...who knows what was used. There is huge variance in Ducati colors due to different processes and materials used by different shops.

Good luck.

[Stormm]

Ducati never published paint codes for those specific items that I've ever seen. That second link is a gamble, but if you're in Europe the steel grey 223.647, or metallic grey 0011 look like possibilities. Chances are the first link will be close to whatever 4V motor they matched it to.

Seeing as most Ducati parts were made in job shops...who knows what was used. There is huge variance in Ducati colors due to different processes and materials used by different shops.

Good luck.

Thanks, not the response I was hoping for.... the search continues;-)