any tips for bleeding hydraulics?

Started by booger, September 28, 2009, 05:17:09 PM

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booger

I have the LT Snyder manual and the FSM but does anyone have anything to add? I'll be using a MityVac on my S2R800 w/ coffins. Have an Evo slave unit. Just want to know of any gotchas or anything not in the manuals. Thanks.
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Speeddog

Are you installing the Evo slave, or are you just bleeding your brakes and clutch?
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ducpainter

It might sound obvious, but watch your fluid level.

It's really easy to run the reservoir dry with a mity-vac.
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victor441

Quote from: bergdoerfer on September 28, 2009, 05:17:09 PM
I have the LT Snyder manual and the FSM but does anyone have anything to add? I'll be using a MityVac on my S2R800 w/ coffins. Have an Evo slave unit. Just want to know of any gotchas or anything not in the manuals. Thanks.

only that unless your bleed nipples are sealed with Teflon tape the Mightyvac bleed line will always have bubbles in it as air is sucked in through the bleed nipple threads....not a big deal, I just keep bleeding and refilling the master until it is clear that only new fluid is in the system.

dlearl476

FWIW, I never had much luck bleeding MC brakes with a MityVac.  The reach is such that I can do most bikes by myself with the usual method so it's not so much an issue.  I will admit that using my vaccum bottle helped a lot when I replaced my lines/calipers.

Besides the aforementioned caution about letting the MC run dry, I also like you put a towel or something under the MC.  Brake fluid and paint don't get along and when the level starts to get low, sometimes you get a little "backwash" when you release the lever.  I've had it splash down on the paintwork before.

rockaduc

Make sure to re-tighten the bleeder screw while the mighty vac is still pressurized.  This will give air less of a chance to get in the line.   I found that the plastic tubing that is supplied w/ the mighty vac is a little too loose fitting around the nipple.  A trip to the hardware store for slightly smaller diameter tubing allows it to work perfectly.  Also, you can tell if you have tightened the bleeder screw enough by using the mighty vac.  With the bleeder tightened and everything hooked up as if you were going to bleed, pump it up and watch the pressure gauge. If the pressure drops dramatically, you haven't tightened it enough.  If the pressure drops very slowly...presto, you are done. 
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junior varsity

i love speedbleeders personally. get from spiegler or direct from the manufacturer! [thumbsup]

ScottRNelson

The last time I bled brakes and clutch with a MitiVac-like device, I discovered that you need to empty the brake fluid collection container once in a while.  This was after doing two clutches and one front brake.

Also, if you have the coffin-style master cylinder, don't squeeze the lever when the lid is off or you can squirt brake fluid all over the place.  And if you do manage to squirt brake fluid all over the place, be sure to rinse everything in the area.  I didn't and the brake fluid cracked the face of my tachometer.  Really annoying.
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jerryz

After any bleed tie the lever back overnight with a tiewrap ..then every last bit of air will go out of the system. or put a weight on he rear brake lever to pressure that on.
I do this at bleast once a month as routine .keeps the system tiptop

corey

the only thing i've learned from bleeding brakes/clutch is that a mighty vac, or even the more expensive Actron brand vacuum bleeding kit, is a complete and total waste of money. thing is more trouble (and money) than it's worth. i got a MUCH better bleed doing it the old fashioned way... squeeze the lever, crack the bleeder, tighten the bleeder, repeat. it DID help to have a CLEAR hose (running to a bottle) on the bleeder to see when the bubbles came out.
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dlearl476

Quote from: corey on September 30, 2009, 01:28:34 PM
the only thing i've learned from bleeding brakes/clutch is that a mighty vac, or even the more expensive Actron brand vacuum bleeding kit, is a complete and total waste of money. thing is more trouble (and money) than it's worth. i got a MUCH better bleed doing it the old fashioned way... squeeze the lever, crack the bleeder, tighten the bleeder, repeat. it DID help to have a CLEAR hose (running to a bottle) on the bleeder to see when the bubbles came out.

Same here, corey.  I have speed bleeders on a bunch of vehicles and they send you a cool bag/tube to collect the used fluid and they work even better.  The long tube allows you to see the bubbles just as they come.  It can't tip over, either.  [thumbsup]