Battery question YTZ7S

Started by pennyrobber, September 29, 2009, 02:33:28 PM

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pennyrobber

Anyone have any first hand experience with Yuasa YTZ7S batteries? Its time to replace my stock battery and I am curious if anyone has used one of these on a monster. Any issues with going to the smaller battery?
Men face reality and women don't. That's why men need to drink. -George Christopher

Rob Hilding

Mine lasted 4 years - without a tender -

So I just got another to replace it.......

As always, YMMV
Desmosedici - it's the new Paso (except the bodywork doesn't fit as well)

MotoCreations

It's the only battery I use anymore.  I've used on my personal Ducati's, my DesmoDevil, customer DesmoDevil's and friends racebikes for almost 10 years now.  Battery tender recommended if sitting for more than 30 days.  Most last 3-4years in the hot Arizona climate.  Going to use them again in my Orange Kist and upcoming customer projects as well.

Only recommendation is to upgrade your ground wires in your Ducati -- factory ones suck.  Thus all my bikes (and customers) usually pop to life immediately even if carb'd with the small battery.

Monsterlover

Hmm, interesting.

That's the really little battery, correct?  I think that's the same one I stuck in my 900ss track bike.

Totally regretted it ever since I did it.  Even with a tender on it with a full charge, the bike just barely has enough umph to crank over and start.

Im always wondering if it will die or not during the cranking process.

But, if a ground wire upgrade would help, I'll do that and report back.  Sounds like that may be an issue.
"The Vincent was like a bullet that went straight; the Ducati is like the magic bullet in Dallas that went sideways and hit JFK and the Governor of Texas at the same time."--HST    **"A man who works with his hands is a laborer.  A man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman.  A man who works with his hands, brains, and heart is an artist."  -Louis Nizer**

pennyrobber

Threw one in on Saturday. This battery is around 4 lbs. lighter than the stock unit I pulled out. I had to do a little work on the cables to make them a bit longer, as the terminals on the new battery were fliped from the stock battery. Anyhow, she starts right up. I think I am going to wire up a switch for the headlight so that I can turn it off while starting the bike, but other than that I am happy with the choice.
Men face reality and women don't. That's why men need to drink. -George Christopher

junior varsity

I think that's is what is in my carb'd M900.  I haven't regretted it once. I've got upgraded wires, and it has seemed to help.

RB

I am considering this battery as well, but i have a few small questions about the ground-ing upgrade.

According to MotoCreations, upgrading the grounding on the bike will help this battery perform better, can someone give me a brief description of how to upgrade the grounds? More contact points?
Heavier gauge wire? I already changed the starter And solenoid wire to 6gauge,yes i know that is just the positive side.
Tear appart the entire wire harness and regound? 

thanks,
RB

junior varsity

From negative side of battery it goes to the frame, beef that up.

Also read to upgrade the wire from the engine (by crankcase breather) and ground it to negative terminal rather than the frame. Haven't done this yet.

RB

#8
Quote from: ato memphis on October 20, 2009, 04:44:24 AM
From negative side of battery it goes to the frame, beef that up.

Also read to upgrade the wire from the engine (by crankcase breather) and ground it to negative terminal rather than the frame. Haven't done this yet.
thanks
more questions.....can i use the 6gauge wire i have leftover from the starter, or is that too beefy?

EDIT: the positive and negative terminals are opposite from each other...correct? what have you done to fix this?
can the battery lay on its back like the OEM?

thanks for the info folks.

pennyrobber

Quote from: RB on October 20, 2009, 05:05:10 AM

EDIT: the positive and negative terminals are opposite from each other...correct? what have you done to fix this?
can the battery lay on its back like the OEM?

thanks for the info folks.

The terminals are indeed opposite. The battery must lay on its back like the OEM in order to fit under the tank. I turned the battery 180 degrees keeping it laying on its back and extended the old cables by splicing in an approximate 4in. lead and a new connector end. It wasn't the prettiest job but functionally it works great.
Men face reality and women don't. That's why men need to drink. -George Christopher

RB

OK so i installed the battery and upgraded the ground to the engine, since that is the larger wire from the harness...yet...the bike seems to have trouble kicking over. It seems like its dead and after a few clicks of the ignition it will start. Could this be due to the fact that my bike is injected? I figure an injected bike uses more power at start then a carbed. I can still take the battery back if i need.

thanks for the help,
RB

junior varsity

In my experience, the carbed bikes are the ones that are more tricky about coming to life. (lots of sweet talk involved, sometimes a little dirty talk).

If the temp has dropped considerably where you are, I find that makes starting the bike a lot harder.

RB

i ride until the temp dips to 32f when i leave for work....this is going to be a problem?
right now it is low fifties high forties

junior varsity

Usually not on a fuelie, I know that starting a carbed bike in the cold is hard, with FCR's it becomes an exercise in patience

RB

so do you have any suggestions? One thing i should mention is that the new lugs for the 6ga wire i installed (ground and positive side) didn't seem to crimp properly, so i am going to redo them on Saturday and hope that is my issue, if not it goes back to the store and i get the stocker. thanks for the help

RB