Oil Filter Issue - Technical Input Required

Started by alexisonfire, October 23, 2009, 07:40:52 PM

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alexisonfire

I ordered some oil change materials from a ducati dealer up north and finally got around to doing the work a few weekends ago.  The new oil filter has part number 44440034A printed on it, same as the old filter removed.  I noticed that the new filter was considerably shorter (1-2 in.) than the old one.  Because they both had the same part number printed on them, I figured it was a redesign on the part of filter manufacturer and went ahead with the install.  It's been about 200 miles since the oil change and the bike is leaking small amounts of oil from the filter's seal with engine.  The leaking occurs when the bike has been running for a few minutes.  I installed it just like I have the other 100's of filters I've used.  Did I get a mislabeled filter or faulty unit?  ???
You can live to 100 if you give up all the things that make you want to live to 100.

07 S2R 1000

alexisonfire

Ok, quick update.   I just tightened the filter.  I think because of it's new shorter design, I wasn't getting a good grip on it and gave it a poor first tighten.  The leak seems to have stopped, I'll keep an eye on it.  What gives with this new ultra short filter?
You can live to 100 if you give up all the things that make you want to live to 100.

07 S2R 1000

Speeddog

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alexisonfire

You can live to 100 if you give up all the things that make you want to live to 100.

07 S2R 1000

Buckethead

Ducati has a torque spec for their oil filters. It is *more* than "hand tight."

I had the same problem on my '03 620. I changed the oil and filter like I would on anything else: filter contact + 3/4 turn.

Not tight enough. That make the beast with two backser has to be wrenched down to seal.

The down side is, you're gonna have to wrench that make the beast with two backser off there, too. And after many hot/cold cycles.

As for the different size, as I understand it, Ducati uses a different filter at the factory for break in. I don't remember seeing anything with regard to their part numbers, tho.
Quote from: Jester on April 11, 2013, 07:29:35 AM
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Langanobob

QuoteDid I get a mislabeled filter or faulty unit?  Huh?

If you will...ahem...drum roll...Do a Search  :) I think you'll find numerous other reports of leaking filters.  The cause seems to be a harder o-ring seal material on newer filters that requires more torque in tightening than the old filters.  Don't think you have a faulty filter.

seevtsaab

Did the old o-ring come off with the old filter?

Any oil filter I usually hand tighten the make the beast with two backser as much as I can, makes me nervous overtightening
oil stuff - plugs & filters (oh and spark plugs too).

Howie

Most of the manuals call for a torque of 11 Nm  No torque wrench or appropriate tool?  7/8 turn after the gasket makes contact should work.  Remember to put oil on the seal!

alexisonfire

Quote from: seevtsaab on October 24, 2009, 03:32:44 AM
Did the old o-ring come off with the old filter?

Any oil filter I usually hand tighten the make the beast with two backser as much as I can, makes me nervous overtightening
oil stuff - plugs & filters (oh and spark plugs too).

old gasket came off, new gasket has light coating of oil.  Just like you, I've never had to wrench on an oil filter.  I hand tighten that thing as hard as I can which usually ends up being about 3/4 turn.  I took the oil filter wrench to it and gave it a light turn in the proper direction.  Seems to have sealed it correctly.  What kind of tools are you guys using to torque down oil filters?
You can live to 100 if you give up all the things that make you want to live to 100.

07 S2R 1000

ducpainter

I use the same strap wrench I use to take it off.
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Langanobob

QuoteWhat kind of tools are you guys using to torque down oil filters?

As you probably know, K&N oil filters come with a hex head nut on the bottom so that you can use a  regular socket wrench.

Howie

I used to do the same thing ducpainter does if using an OEM filter.  Never had a problem.  Then, one day, I found a tool for the OEM filter on sale cheap.  Or you can get the K&N filter Langanobob is talking about, which also has a hole in the hex for safety wire.

Speeddog

I've found that a 'Mechanix' glove gives me enough grip to tighten OEM filters by hand.
I'm left handed, so that helps.

K&N, yeah, use a box wrench.
Make sure it's on the hex securely, as it's not all that robust.
- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~

brad black

Quote from: Speeddog on October 24, 2009, 12:17:48 PM
I'm left handed, so that helps.

indeed it does.  i wear cheap natural rubber (latex?) gloves that also help if they're not oily.  i do it up as tight as i can by hand, which is pretty tight these days.  most filters do have a spec around 11nm, altho the mv ones with the round o-ring style seal are 24nm.
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scott_araujo

I had the same problem not long ago.  My new torque spec for the filter is very precise: until it stops leaking.  That usually requires a wrench with the new harder gaskets. 

The sneaky bit is they usually don't leak until the second or third ride so I put them on snug and then carry my wrench with me for a week or so just to be safe.

Scott