whats the best chain maintenance?

Started by corvtt1969, May 26, 2008, 07:31:06 AM

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corvtt1969

havent owned a chain drive bike in a few years, whats the best way to maintain the chain?
2006 S2R
2002 Mini Cooper S
1983 XJ750 Maxim
1969 cb450
1969 Corvette vert

mdubya

Quote from: corvtt1969 on May 26, 2008, 07:31:06 AM
havent owned a chain drive bike in a few years, whats the best way to maintain the chain?

Clean it after every ride with WD 40. If you store the bike indoors, it is my opinion that this is all you need to do. If you store the bike outdoors or commute in all types of weather, you may want to use a chain wax or o-ring lube. I find the name "lube" to be a misnomer because all it does is protect the chain, it doesn't actually lube it. I have tried both methods with nearly identical results, as far as longevity goes. The WD 40 method is a lot less messy than the wax/lube method. With a top of the line DID X ring chain, I get 12-15K hard miles out of a chain. With a cheaper o-ring chain, I get approx. 6K. Botton line; use a lube/wax if you want, but most importantly, keep it clean!


mdubya

haha..nearly identical replies from me and Tim at nearly the same time.  ;D [thumbsup]

Ducatista

When cleaning with WD-40, be sure that you spray it on a cloth and use the cloth on the chain.  Just blasting the solvent in there can damage some parts of the chain.  You'll know it's definitely time to replace the chain when the links no longer lie flat or "kink".
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Slide Panda

Personally I like the Dupont telfon spray for chains.  The folks at Web Bike World turned me on to it and everyone else who's tried it is a fan.   Once it's dry, it's really dry like a wax so it doesn't pick up grime, dust etc like a lot of stuff.  And since it doesn't move (the fling factor) a good coating will keep the rust off.  My bike has to live outside and I've never got a rusty chain.

Bonus - you can get it at places like Lowes/Home Depot
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm
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ducatiz

WD40 is fine to spray directly on the chain, it is a VERY weak solvent.  Both Tsubaki and RK chains recommend using WD40.

Spray the WD40 on and soak it good.  You are just floating off the crud.

Dry it by hand with a bunch of paper towels.  Having a rear stand helps a lot to move it.  I usually let mine sit overnight to drip it all off.

Then spray a bit of Chain Wax over the entire chain.  You don't need to soak it, just give it a light coat. 

The factory chain is an o-ring chain and has grease inside the rollers.  You are just cleaning off the crap on the outside and lubing the o-rings and outside.

I will dig up the links where Tsubaki and RK both say to use WD40 directly on the chain..
Check out my oil filter forensics thread!                     Offended? Click here
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potomacduc

Maxima Chain wax!  I forget who, but years ago somebody on TOB (maybe as far back as when it was an e-mail list) posted this technique.  I've copied it and it gives me 15K per chain:

Generally every 500 miles (if I go for a 1,000 mile weekend I wait until I get back), spray the entire chain generously with Maxima while rotating the wheel slowly.  Rotating the wheel again, rub off the chain wax with a lint free cloth.  Rotate the wheel once more, applying a light coat of Maxima to the chain.  Let the bike sit for 2 minutes and then go ride.  Your chain will look brand new and Maxima does not fling.  It's called a wax, but its appearance is more petroleum-like.  It does not leave a white gunky residue like Belray or similar products.
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'04 MTS1000DS (Black) - sold
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ducatiz

Quote from: potomacduc on May 29, 2008, 05:57:06 AM
Maxima Chain wax!  I forget who, but years ago somebody on TOB (maybe as far back as when it was an e-mail list) posted this technique.  I've copied it and it gives me 15K per chain:

Generally every 500 miles (if I go for a 1,000 mile weekend I wait until I get back), spray the entire chain generously with Maxima while rotating the wheel slowly.  Rotating the wheel again, rub off the chain wax with a lint free cloth.  Rotate the wheel once more, applying a light coat of Maxima to the chain.  Let the bike sit for 2 minutes and then go ride.  Your chain will look brand new and Maxima does not fling.  It's called a wax, but its appearance is more petroleum-like.  It does not leave a white gunky residue like Belray or similar products.

http://www.ducatitech.com/info/chain.html
Check out my oil filter forensics thread!                     Offended? Click here
"Yelling out of cars, turning your speakers out the window to blast your music onto the street, setting off M-80 firecrackers, firing automatic weapons into the airâ€"these are all well and good. But none of them create a merry atmosphere of insouciance and bonhomie quite like a revving motorcycle.

Stillie

If I still used chain lube, it would be Maxima Chain wax.

I use the WD-40 method.
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zooom

we all differ in what we do and have different performance....

while my chain is warm to hot range after even just a quick ride.....I clean my chain with brake clean and a brass grunge brush and then let it dry a lil bit and then apply PJ-1 Blue.... and call it a day.....good for 300-500 miles without a problem....
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mdubya

Quote from: zooom on May 29, 2008, 07:30:11 AM
we all differ in what we do and have different performance....

while my chain is warm to hot range after even just a quick ride.....I clean my chain with brake clean and a brass grunge brush and then let it dry a lil bit and then apply PJ-1 Blue.... and call it a day.....good for 300-500 miles without a problem....

Both the brake clean and brass brush seem like they would be particularly harsh on o-rings. But like you say, everybody has a different method.

I can say for sure, the WD 40 method is gentle and your chain will last a long time.

RodeoClown

And of course careful getting any of this crap on you brake rotor or pads.
2000 M750 Dark(Black Betty); 88 FZR400

ducatiz

Quote from: zooom on May 29, 2008, 07:30:11 AM
we all differ in what we do and have different performance....

while my chain is warm to hot range after even just a quick ride.....I clean my chain with brake clean and a brass grunge brush and then let it dry a lil bit and then apply PJ-1 Blue.... and call it a day.....good for 300-500 miles without a problem....

i have to say that is a scary method to me.  brake parts cleaner is a harsh solvent.  i doubt any chain manufacturer would sanction that practice -- have you tried emailing any of them and ask them if that is an ok method?  I owuld be curious the response.

both Tsubaki and RK have said using WD40 is ok because it is a very weak solvent and it floats off the dirt without removing any lube or hurting the o-rings. 

brake parts cleaner would literally eat grease if it gets inside an oring, which is possible due to the high solvent properties.

Check out my oil filter forensics thread!                     Offended? Click here
"Yelling out of cars, turning your speakers out the window to blast your music onto the street, setting off M-80 firecrackers, firing automatic weapons into the airâ€"these are all well and good. But none of them create a merry atmosphere of insouciance and bonhomie quite like a revving motorcycle.

zooom

Quote from: ducatizzzz on May 29, 2008, 09:27:39 AM
i have to say that is a scary method to me.  brake parts cleaner is a harsh solvent.  i doubt any chain manufacturer would sanction that practice -- have you tried emailing any of them and ask them if that is an ok method?  I owuld be curious the response.

both Tsubaki and RK have said using WD40 is ok because it is a very weak solvent and it floats off the dirt without removing any lube or hurting the o-rings. 

brake parts cleaner would literally eat grease if it gets inside an oring, which is possible due to the high solvent properties.



not so true with the non-chlorinated newer aerosoled brake cleaner formulas....they aren't the same caustic drying out formulas of old...they penetrate the grime and grunge and filth without drying out everything like the formulas of old...so that is why I follow with a rag to wipe off excess and allow it some drying time....not much, but enough to do what needs to be done...and the brass brushes I use mostly on the outer plates to get what isn't being peeled off chemically or on the outsides of the rollers barely to break off scunge and heavier stuff....I haven't had a problem with getting at least 12K out of a chain by using this method....and I use DID X-ring chains...
99 Cagiva Gran Canyon-"FOR SALE", PM for details.
98 Monster 900(trackpregnant dog-soon to be made my Fiancee's upgrade streetbike)
2010 KTM 990 SM-T

potomacduc

Quote from: zooom on May 29, 2008, 07:30:11 AM
we all differ in what we do and have different performance....

while my chain is warm to hot range after even just a quick ride.....I clean my chain with brake clean and a brass grunge brush and then let it dry a lil bit and then apply PJ-1 Blue.... and call it a day.....good for 300-500 miles without a problem....

Yes we all differ, but only my method works!! ;D  All other methods are wrong and will cause your chain to fail instantly and you might die.  I knew a guy who knew a guy who it happened to once. [roll]

In the end, as long as your using one of the 4-5 main methods mentioned here and doing it frequently, you should be able to get an easy 10K miles out of a chain and maybe get 15K or more.  There certainly are plenty of ways that give acceptable results....but mine is still the best! [cheeky]
'13 MTS1200 (Red)
'04 MTS1000DS (Black) - sold
'99 M750 (Yellow/Black) -  sold