1123cc Big Bore Piston Kit for 1000DS

[Travman]

Travman, are you going to get any dyno runs in?
Theo, thanks for the response

Sure, there will be dyno runs to fine tune the bike and to see the hp/torque results.  I can't really sat when.  I just need to put a lot more miles on the bike before we ring its neck on the dyno. 

[ducpainter]

What break in method are you using?

[jwoconnor]

I've seen many racebikes broken in on the dyno the day before the race. 

[Travman]

What break in method are you using?

I basically just ride it.  I'm varying the RPM's, trying not to cruise for long periods of time at one speed (so I stay off the highway).  I accelerate, but don't go much over 6K RPMs. 

I've seen many racebikes broken in on the dyno the day before the race. 

I've seen it too, but those bikes don't have to worry about the longevity of a street bike.  A race bike might be torn apart after just a few races.

[Travman]

Another 50 miles today in the cold.  I know it was cold because it was snowing (flurries).  The roads still suck, but I felt more comfortable out there riding today.  That is until my fingers went numb.  There was less gravel and less snow melt crossing the roads.  I rode the bike more like I usually do.  It is definitely stronger.  A couple of times I felt that super warp speed you get on sport bikes or the water cooled Monsters.  At one point I thought the clutch was slipping when I was getting on it, but it was just the rear wheel spinning. 

[Duck-Stew]

At one point I thought the clutch was slipping when I was getting on it, but it was just the rear wheel spinning. 

[TAftonomos]

Following this one closely....as it looks like a ds1k motor w/fcr's is in my future.  Didn't know I might be looking at 100whp without headwork/cams/bore.

Turbulence in the intake port isn't a bad thing at all.  For proof on why it works, look at some of the head porting pictures released on the top-level all motor Honda drag cars.  They are getting upwards of 350whp on a 2.0l motor, and the power is all in the head/cams. 

I'm unsure if I'll do the big-bore out of the box, or try and find a new cylinder/piston for the scuffed horizonal one....might be the same money to just have the cylinders replated and use the FBF pistons from what I've seen so far.....

[Nekkid Tim]

Sure, there will be dyno runs to fine tune the bike and to see the hp/torque results.  I can't really sat when.  I just need to put a lot more miles on the bike before we ring its neck on the dyno. 

I'm glad Donnie found a DS1000 engine to "play with" over the winter!  We talked about him doing mine, but my [crappy] job situation interrupted that idea.   My 1000SS is making 87 hp with Donnie's custom race exhaust and a PCIII (on another local dyno; Ducpond's wasn't up last fall when I had the dynotuning done by Rick Beggs at RnR Cycles in Sterling) so I will be very interested to see what your engine does when you do get it to the dyno.

Regards,

Tim Morrow

[Travman]

Tim, Ducpond's dyno is down again.  They said it was something minor like a filter.  I'm in no rush to have my bike dyno'ed though.  The more miles I put on my bike the better before flogging it on the dyno.  So far I've only managed about 80 miles in the cold.  Good luck with the job situation.  Hopefully my experience with this 1123 kit will be worth it and inspire a few more people to upgrade their 1000 & 1100 DS engines. 

[Fergus]

Hopefully my experience with this 1123 kit will be worth it and inspire a few more people to upgrade their 1000 & 1100 DS engines. 

Forgive me for asking this. I've looked through the thread. How much is costing in the end?

[Travman]

$2,400

Pistal Pistons 1100 HC   $750.00
Cylinder Bore & Plate     $400.00
Head Work - Porting      $400.00
Multi Angle Valve Job     $125.00
Machine Clutch Cover    $85.00
Dyno Time                   $170.00
Labor 6 hours @$75      $450.00

Estimated total            $2380.00
(labor includes disassemble, cleaning, reassemble, setting squish, cam timing)

I think this includes a generous winter time discount on some of the labor.  I later added more stuff like new oil lines, engine painting, clutch basket, plates, and cover, but this is not included.

[Fergus]

$2,400

That seems damn reasonable to me. Nice work.

[Travman]

Weather was nice this weekend.  I took two short rides on Sunday.  Probably a total of 50 miles.  I'm starting the run the bike a little harder and I'm increasing my shift limit.  Trying to not go too far beyond 7K.  It's hard though.  It pulls harder through the lower RPMs so when I get to 7K I feel like I should let it pull for another couple thousand RPMs, but I shift at that point.  The bike is seriously quick.  At one point I saw 110.  I didn't realize I was in that range of speed because I was on a back road.  I'm pretty sure that was around 7K in 4th gear.  I'll have to double check that some time b/c it may have been 5th gear.  Either way there was plenty more RPM in that gear and at least one more (maybe two) to go.  I do have lowered gearing with both my front and rear sprockets.  Anyways, it feels faster and when riding in known locations I'm hitting higher speeds when I have time to look down at the speedo on the straights. 

BTW, my speedo is way to small to be readable at those kinds of speeds.  I've never had a problem with my analog speedo, but it is impossible to try to read those small numbers at high speeds.  My eyes just don't want to be off the road for the period of time it takes to find the speedo needle and read it.  Maybe the needle should be a brighter color instead of being white.

[greenohawk69]

BTW, my speedo is way to small to be readable at those kinds of speeds.  I've never had a problem with my analog speedo, but it is impossible to try to read those small numbers at high speeds.  My eyes just don't want to be off the road for the period of time it takes to find the speedo needle and read it.  Maybe the needle should be a brighter color instead of being white.
[/quote]

Mod your speedo needle...different color (e.g. high vis/florescent). 

[Travman]

Has anyone here ever had their Ducati's crankshaft balancing and lightened? 

The rod bushing that holds the wrist pin for the upper cylinder of my bike is worn.  This causes a sound when the engine is running.  The sound can be heard at idle and throughout the range of RPM, but is especially noticeable in the 4-5K range.  This wasn't a problem before, but after the bigger pistons were installed the existing wear was enough for this sound to become more prominent.    Donnie took the top end apart and inspected his work to see if there was any problem with the work he had done.  Everything looked great and there was no wear.  It took a while to find the offending problem, but now we know.  I could ignore the sound and live with it for quite a while, but I'm not going to.  To replace this bushing the bottom end must come apart. 

I'm thinking of having the crankshaft balanced and lightened while it is apart.  Does anyone have experience with this?  Was it worth the extra expense?  Did it reduce engine vibration?  Were there any negative side effects?