Did 12K service and running rough

[EEL]

The first time i did a valve adjust I had the same problem.. You know what the problem was..I adjusted the closers too loose.

People are probably going to give me a hard time about this but I'll say it anyway and its probably not what you want to hear but here goes:

All this tps adjustment and throttle body syncing is going to get you no where. The fact is that tps and throttle bodies dont go way out of sync in 12k miles.

Setting closers to zero is done by feel not measurement. Of course a rough estimate of closer size is required so you can go buy a new one but thats about it.

See my post on how to measure by feel. Its anal and tedious but it works.

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28921.0

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

EEL thanks for the post. I may try to get the closers a bit tighter next time but they are well within spec for now.

I tried to set the throttle bodies with a homemade manometer which did yield some good results but not good enough. Personally I think my dealer has never really tuned the bike how it should be. I think they have cut a lot of corners (including not hooking the bike up to the DDS) so they can make a better profit in a crappy economy. My bike was running so bad before I did the service I wasn't sure if I should be doing the service myself.

Turns out I did a better job than the dealer (not supprised).

I have had the swine flu for a week but am finally starting to come out of it. I just set the TPS to 150Mv/434Mv tonight.  The TPS was around 190Mv while the TB stop screw was around 385Mv and that was after I adjusted it with the manometer.

Anyway Ill finish tuning it tomorrow and this should be FINALLY done resulting in a bike that runs like it should. I'm lookin forward to getting rid of the swiney and gettin back on the bike.

[rule62]

TPS all the way.  Mine was completely out of whack at 16,000 miles.  Here's a link to what I did.

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=31155.0

Good luck!

<I do not have VDST, so I only went by mV on the TPS.>

[seevtsaab]

Good luck kicking the grunge ....

going back to EEL's post, TPS & bleed screws (I backed mine about 1/4 to 1/2 turn iirc) will only effect idle
so if you have issues higher in the range it's elsewhere (bleed screws may play a very minor role off idle).

I developed a 'rhythm' for getting closers on & off - tedious for sure but pretty satisfying.

Closing shims off, my little song

(Clip off)
(opener rocker - move)
(opener shim - off)
forceps - on valve stem
closer rocker - down, secure with 8-10mm allen (EEEEEEEEEXCELENT TIP)
collets - out
Allen - out
closer shim - out

(sand sand sand sand)

Closing shim -on
Allen - in
Collets - on
Allen - out
Forceps - off

With a little pressing on the closer rocker and spinning the cam at various points

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

seevtsaab, good tips above. When adjusting the valves I did all those steps accept for the allen key trick. Good one, next time.

You're right about the TPS and bleed screws, I thought the TB sync screw was messing something up but now I know the MV's on the TPS were off. I just want to get everything set as it should be. Here's more of the story below.

So last night while I was setting the Mv I noticed that I don't have a LH throttle stop screw, so I sent an email to Brad Black. It is below with his answer on top.

I haven't had a chance to complete the tune up due to a failing battery, it's the original so it needed replacing anyway.  

Basically, set the TPS to 150Mv, set the RH throttle screw to 2.7 degrees (which sets the TB sync screw the same basically), then adjust the bleeders to get the RPM and do the trim if need be. I got to the setting of the RH throttle screw @ 2.7 degrees then the battery wouldn't let me start the bike. I have one on order for pick up tomorrow.

The saga continues...hopefully it will end tomorrow. Then I have new front pads to install, bleed the front brakes (did the rear and clutch already), then new sprockets and a new chain.

Eaton

I always go by the degrees, not mV.  Possibly not the way it should be, but it's just a convention.

Regards

Brad Black

Brad The Bike Boy

2B King St
Oakleigh, VIC, 3166

P: 03 9563 2004
F: 03 9563 3004
M: 0408 095 595

www.bikeboy.org

Hours:
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----- Original Message -----
From: Eaton Reid
To: brad@bikeboy.org
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 7:30 PM
Subject: TPS Tuning Question - Saw you on Ducati Monster Forum


Hi Brad!

Great write up on the 2V Non Linear TPS Baseline adjustment! Great info. I have a 2005 Monster 620 w/Bing TB's and it doesn't have a left hand throttle stop screw. It only has a balance or synchronization adjustment screw. I adjusted the TPS to 150 Mv, then screwed in the synchronization adjustment screw to 434Mv. Then I screwed in the RH throttle adjustor screw and it was at 3.1 degrees when it made contact.

Here's the question, what is more important the degrees  @ 2.7 or the 434Mv.

Is it better to readjust the balance or synchronization adjustment screw then set the RH throttle body to 2.7 degrees and throw the 434 Mv out the window? Thinking about it more and more this sounds like the correct path. That way the TB's are in sync  with the correct baseline, the throttle is at 2.7 degrees and I can go ahead and adjust the idle with the bleeders and then the trim.

Did I just answer my own question?

[jim_0068]

this thread may be of interest to you

http://www.desmonorthwest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9263

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

this thread may be of interest to you

http://www.desmonorthwest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9263

Great thread, thanks. That's exactly where I'm headed, but it's great to see the plan you have in your head written down by someone else.

[brix821]

do you have to take off the airbox to get to the air bleed screws?

[rule62]

do you have to take off the airbox to get to the air bleed screws?

No.  The air bleeds are accessable on each side of the bike without removing the airbox.  They look like little set-screws in the side of the throttle bodies.  I used them only to set idle speed.

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

So after all this I finally took the heads off just to make sure I didn't screw up the valves or pistons somehow while adjusting them. I just couldn't get it to run right. I brought the heads to the shop where my dealer took them to get the valve guides replaced 6K ago. The exhaust guides are way out.

Horizontal .178 mm
Vertical .381mm

To top it off my tps is all screwed up as well. I checked the Mv again and I couldn't get it to read a voltage.

Its going to the dealer on Tuesday for warranty work. I have an expanding gas tank as well. We'll see what happens with that too.

Thanks for all the posts here. I checked everything including making sure I adjusted the valves correctly multiple times, but in the end there was no other place to go except pull the heads.