Bleeding the clutch, specific tools/supplies required?

Started by Jnaids07, May 27, 2008, 07:58:12 AM

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Jnaids07

Hi all,

I have done some reading about bleeding the clutch line, just a few questions:

What are the specific materials required?  Specifically, what size tubing is necessary?

Does anyone have pictures of the clutch bleeding process?  I like to enter a project having some idea of what to expect. 

Thanks!
| '04 M620 Capirex | DP Remus High Exhaust | Open Air Box w/ K&N Filter | 14t Front Sprocket | Apex Clip-Ons | Rizoma Billet Grips | CRG Hindsight LS Mirrors | Lowered Gauges/Fairing/Headlight/Signals | HID Headlight | CC Frame Sliders | Carbon Pieces | Wire Ties / Reflectors / Stickers Removed |

johnster

+1... As you can see in my other thread I just made, I'm about to do the same thing... I haven't read exactly what needs to be done, but it can't be too hard I figure...
2001 MS4; Full Termi w/airbox, ECU, SPS cams, CycleCat ClipOn Adapters, Apex clip-ons, CRG's, MW open clutch, Sargent Saddle, CF aplenty.. NOT RIDEABLE FOR A LONG TIME DUE TO MY STUPID LACK OF JUDGEMENT!!

Jnaids07

Quote from: Johnster on May 27, 2008, 08:04:36 AM
+1... As you can see in my other thread I just made, I'm about to do the same thing... I haven't read exactly what needs to be done, but it can't be too hard I figure...


I found this article online.  Looks pretty good, but doesn't answer my question about what size tubing is needed to get a tight fit on the bolt.  I guess its time to get a good set of measuring calipers. 

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0306_hydraulic_clutch_service/index.html
| '04 M620 Capirex | DP Remus High Exhaust | Open Air Box w/ K&N Filter | 14t Front Sprocket | Apex Clip-Ons | Rizoma Billet Grips | CRG Hindsight LS Mirrors | Lowered Gauges/Fairing/Headlight/Signals | HID Headlight | CC Frame Sliders | Carbon Pieces | Wire Ties / Reflectors / Stickers Removed |

johnster

Quote from: Jnaids07 on May 27, 2008, 08:10:49 AM
I guess its time to get a good set of measuring calipers. 

Too bad you're not down around Boston, we could have a clutch-bleeding party!!   [laugh]

-I even have calipers... :-\

I'll check out that link though....Thanks!!   [thumbsup]
2001 MS4; Full Termi w/airbox, ECU, SPS cams, CycleCat ClipOn Adapters, Apex clip-ons, CRG's, MW open clutch, Sargent Saddle, CF aplenty.. NOT RIDEABLE FOR A LONG TIME DUE TO MY STUPID LACK OF JUDGEMENT!!

teddy037.2

one of those mighty-vac bleeders will have the tubing you'll need, and is loads faster than the squeeze-and-bleed method  ;)

any auto parts store should have them in stock, and they come w/instructions  [thumbsup]

knightrider

I would say 1/8" clear tubing, or just buy a mightyvac like suggested above but its not too bad bleeding the clutch. its far worse on a car with 20ft of brake lines.
1994 M900

He Man

Quote from: teddy037.2 on May 27, 2008, 09:00:27 AM
one of those mighty-vac bleeders will have the tubing you'll need, and is loads faster than the squeeze-and-bleed method  ;)

any auto parts store should have them in stock, and they come w/instructions  [thumbsup]

mighty vac = $$

Are you just bleeding out fluid for new fluid, or are you doing a fresh bleeed with air inside? If you are doing the earlier, then it shouldnt take more than 15 minutes. If you are doing the later, then it might take a while. Do you have an aircompressor because harbor freight has a cheap bleeding tool that requires very little work to bleed. You'll need clear plastic tubing and a 8mm wrench.

That guide pretty much explains it all.
Somethings to note: fluid will rocket out of the resovior if you pump it quickly. so make sure u have something over it.
Always look at the cup to make sure its full. Because the second you pump air into the liine, your going to be stuck there rebleeding the system all over again.


Slide Panda

If you use the pump the lever method, put the reservoir cap on, back on after each fill.  You can just plates it on, no need to screw it back on.  Depending on the reservoir set up, you can literally shoot a stream of fluid a couple feet in the air - bad news.

A mighty vac is only about $30 from sears - maybe a bit more. 
-Throttle's on the right, so are the brakes.  Good luck.
- '00 M900S with all the farkles
- '08 KTM 690 StupidMoto
- '07 Triumph 675 Track bike.

teddy037.2

Quote from: yuu on May 27, 2008, 09:51:09 AM
If you use the pump the lever method, put the reservoir cap on, back on after each fill.  You can just plates it on, no need to screw it back on.  Depending on the reservoir set up, you can literally shoot a stream of fluid a couple feet in the air - bad news.

A mighty vac is only about $30 from sears - maybe a bit more. 

exactly.  reasonable expense for a good tool...