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Author Topic: Bleeding the clutch, specific tools/supplies required?  (Read 4495 times)
Jnaids07
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« on: May 27, 2008, 06:58:12 AM »

Hi all,

I have done some reading about bleeding the clutch line, just a few questions:

What are the specific materials required?  Specifically, what size tubing is necessary?

Does anyone have pictures of the clutch bleeding process?  I like to enter a project having some idea of what to expect. 

Thanks!
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johnster
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« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2008, 07:04:36 AM »

+1... As you can see in my other thread I just made, I'm about to do the same thing... I haven't read exactly what needs to be done, but it can't be too hard I figure...
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Jnaids07
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« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2008, 07:10:49 AM »

+1... As you can see in my other thread I just made, I'm about to do the same thing... I haven't read exactly what needs to be done, but it can't be too hard I figure...


I found this article online.  Looks pretty good, but doesn't answer my question about what size tubing is needed to get a tight fit on the bolt.  I guess its time to get a good set of measuring calipers. 

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0306_hydraulic_clutch_service/index.html
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johnster
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« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2008, 07:31:49 AM »

I guess its time to get a good set of measuring calipers. 

Too bad you're not down around Boston, we could have a clutch-bleeding party!!   laughingdp

-I even have calipers... Undecided

I'll check out that link though....Thanks!!   waytogo
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teddy037.2
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« Reply #4 on: May 27, 2008, 08:00:27 AM »

one of those mighty-vac bleeders will have the tubing you'll need, and is loads faster than the squeeze-and-bleed method  Wink

any auto parts store should have them in stock, and they come w/instructions  waytogo
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knightrider
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« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2008, 08:19:16 AM »

I would say 1/8" clear tubing, or just buy a mightyvac like suggested above but its not too bad bleeding the clutch. its far worse on a car with 20ft of brake lines.
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« Reply #6 on: May 27, 2008, 08:23:38 AM »

one of those mighty-vac bleeders will have the tubing you'll need, and is loads faster than the squeeze-and-bleed method  Wink

any auto parts store should have them in stock, and they come w/instructions  waytogo

mighty vac = $$

Are you just bleeding out fluid for new fluid, or are you doing a fresh bleeed with air inside? If you are doing the earlier, then it shouldnt take more than 15 minutes. If you are doing the later, then it might take a while. Do you have an aircompressor because harbor freight has a cheap bleeding tool that requires very little work to bleed. You'll need clear plastic tubing and a 8mm wrench.

That guide pretty much explains it all.
 Somethings to note: fluid will rocket out of the resovior if you pump it quickly. so make sure u have something over it.
Always look at the cup to make sure its full. Because the second you pump air into the liine, your going to be stuck there rebleeding the system all over again.

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« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2008, 08:51:09 AM »

If you use the pump the lever method, put the reservoir cap on, back on after each fill.  You can just plates it on, no need to screw it back on.  Depending on the reservoir set up, you can literally shoot a stream of fluid a couple feet in the air - bad news.

A mighty vac is only about $30 from sears - maybe a bit more. 
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teddy037.2
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« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2008, 03:33:45 PM »

If you use the pump the lever method, put the reservoir cap on, back on after each fill.  You can just plates it on, no need to screw it back on.  Depending on the reservoir set up, you can literally shoot a stream of fluid a couple feet in the air - bad news.

A mighty vac is only about $30 from sears - maybe a bit more. 

exactly.  reasonable expense for a good tool...
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