LED tail light stays on bright - Help please

[Vin]

Guys-

Just had LED board installed and the board stays lit up bright. Seemed to work fine in the shop (murphys law)

Rear brake switch is disconnected so must be an issue with the front. I looked at the wires under head light seem to be sealed and clean.

There is current going through break as you can hear the "click" when front brake is depressed. Should I disassemble - front, clean and re crimp? Ideas?

2007 S2R

Thanks

[ducpainter]

The click you hear is the switch activating, not current.

Usually when there is a problem with the switch you don't hear the click.

Do you have a tail chop? If so check to make sure the wires aren't chafing causing the tail and brake circuits to become one.

[stopintime]

On my bike the wires were mixed up from the factory. Worked fine with a bulb, but not with a LED board
Does it work with a bulb?

If it worked in the shop.... hmmm. Maybe a +1 to what DucPainter said.

Looking back, the wires should be Yellow to the left, Red/White to the right and black on it's own.
.... and of course the LED board bulb type (?) connector put in the correct way.

[Vin]

Eric C. did the chop and put a shft tec tail in. He mentioned that last night that the wires might be touching the tail and shorting . I'll pull the tail off and re connect tail light to see if the prob persists with wires laid out clean.

Thanks.

[Vin]

Btw- the work he did was A+. Must have bounced loos or what ever on ride home as it was fine in the shop.

[ducpainter]

Btw- the work he did was A+. Must have bounced loos or what ever on ride home as it was fine in the shop.

What else did he do for you?

[CCEMN1]

Did you replace your levers? I had the same thing happen when I swapped my Levers & LED's at the same time. At first, I thought it was an LED issue, but after inspecting it carefully, I noticed that the new brake lever was not engaging the front brake light switch. In fact, there was almost an 1/8th inch gap, between the lever and switch. I remedied it by milling a small piece of aluminum and epoxying it to the lever, closing the gap & engaging the brake light switch.   

[Vin]

Soooo problem solved. As Eric, ahem, remarked the bike has a tad bit of corrosion on the inside. Though I have done a good job keeping the external clean as hell, water seeps into places it shouldn't and gunk finds its way in as well.

Dr Desmo and I transformed Central Square into a shop and with coffee in hand we took it apart. Thankfully he knew what the f*ck he was doing re: electrical bcs I do (did) not. After working from the front to the back, the problem was a nice pile of gunk that had built up behind the rear brake connectors and there wasn't enough voltage getting to the break light. The sucker is sparkling clean and working.

Eric had it working in the shop, but the connectors were due a real scrub.

Other than that, fueling is perfect with the tune / open box / DP ECU. DucPaint, answering your question, it was due a real tune and breakdown. I also had the DP directional installed front and back with the ShifTech tail. I wanted a harness rigged so at a track day i could just in plug once piece and pull off the tail. Eric rigged it so 5 screws and a plug and the carbon tail and directional are off. Perfect. He also re coded a couple keys for me as I seem to bend them with some regularity....

All good and thanks for the help and tips.

V.

[ducpainter]

You let Adam work on your bike?

Just kidding.

He does great work.

[DrDesmo]

You let Adam work on your bike?

Just kidding.

He does great work.

Glad everything worked out for the best - on the plus side, Vin now knows how a multimeter works for testing switches, continuity, measuring voltage, checking grounds ...

All in good fun - can't wait for spring! 

Cheers,
Adam

[Vin]

Life was so simple once.....

Now my brain is flooded with multimeters, switches, continuity, and voltage.

Frodo, take me back to the Shire.