bolts

[SeaLander]

2001 750M

Well I managed to destroy 3 bolts during my vavle clearance check project.

I'm looking for a valve cover bolt, the bolt that hold on the belt tentioner, and the bolt for that cover on the right side of the case where the engine turning tool goes in.

The local ducati dealer  only sells them in packages and would cost 60$, does anyone know a cheaper place to buy these bolts?

[64duc]

 Any good hardware store should have them, or Home Depot, Lowes.

[WetDuc]

Any good hardware store should have them, or Home Depot, Lowes.

You might find some guys in the "For Sale" section that have these kinds of odds and ends around.

[He Man]

what size? M6x

I may have a few laying around.

I know theres a few people selling these odds and ends on the parts for sale.

Or you could just pony up $30 bucks on monsterparts.com and buy a 2v stainless steel bolt kit.
It'll look better then corrodoed aluminum bolts.

[Slide Panda]

Or you could just pony up $30 bucks on monsterparts.com and buy a 2v stainless steel bolt kit.

It might seem a bit costy, since you're just looking to replace a handful right now - but I'd got this road. You'll get plenty of bolts to fix what you need and plenty more to replace the other aged ones on yoru bike.

[junior varsity]

boltdepot.com
stainless

RaceBolts.com
titanium and aluminum

BallerBolts.com
titanium


(i say go with titanium...ooooh la la)

[Slide Panda]

Bolt depot is handy... but their lowest shipping cost is just shy of $10. I just had a an order that 40% of my cost  was shipping

[booger]

The Monsterparts kit doesn't include the belt tensioner bolt. I know because I bought one. TPO kit doesn't include this one either.

Ducati Omaha prices
part# 77210103A for the tensioner bolt - $7.99
part# 77750498B for the crankshaft cover screw - $.99
part# 77150668B for the valve cover bolt - $.99

~$10 +shipping to wherever you are, I'd think that beats the hell out of paying $30 for a bunch of stainless bolts you don't need and still having to source a tensioner bolt. Alternatively you can go to the dealer and see if they can order these by the part #s. If not do Ducati Omaha and they will hook you up with only the parts you need without having to buy a bunch of shit you don't. Stainless bolt kits are overrated. Ti bolts are like throwing money down a hole.  

[junior varsity]

1. Not sure how stainless bolt kits are overrated. The replace a soft corroded zinc plated bolt with something better looking and not yet worn out. You may not want to spend the money yourself, but they are certainly worthwhile.

2. Titanium bolts... Throwing money down a hole? Hardly. The bike is covered in bolts. Steel bolts. Steel bolts weigh a LOT. The difference in weight is substantial, especially if you are removing large bolts, pivots, and axles with titanium. Perhaps you don't find the cost worthwhile, but that doesn't mean that its not another avenue for weight savings.

[booger]

Lol, I gave the guy a simple solution to his query. Just replace the parts you need and be done with it.

1) SS bolts are overrated. They break when hamfisted, not just strip out. The stock bolts do just fine if you keep your bike clean, store it indoors, use proper torque & antisieze, and don't hamfist them. Like I said before, I bought an SS kit, and really can't tell the difference from 2 feet away.
2) Ti bolts are like throwing money down a hole. Weight savings? Will never be able to tell the difference. That's one of those things where you'll have to do like Taftonomos and replace every single bolt on the bike with Ti to realize any benefits($$$), and even then they are minimal. You just don't need the Ti.

C'mon dude, this guy just wants to fix his bike as properly and cheaply as possible, and I'm trying to help him out with that. There's absolutely no point in making a big expensive deal out of it. If it were a D16 I'd agree with you on the Ti. Since it's a Monster 750 and we're in the middle of a deep recession, I recommend being prudent and replacing just the bolts needed with exact standard parts. No offense intended by the way.

[Popeye the Sailor]

Perhaps you don't find the cost worthwhile, but that doesn't mean that its not another avenue for weight savings.

Given that he's looking to do it cheaply and didn't ask about weight savings, it's all moot. 

[junior varsity]

2) Ti bolts are like throwing money down a hole. Weight savings? Will never be able to tell the difference. That's one of those things where you'll have to do like Taftonomos and replace every single bolt on the bike with Ti to realize any benefits($$$), and even then they are minimal. You just don't need the Ti.

I have done this as well. It does make a measurable difference, as the net change is more than a pound. The stock bolts do go from their golden yellow to something less attractive and spotted with corrosion, and maybe from a few feet away you can't tell. But I can tell when I'm working on the bike, and I'm not a fan.

For the record, my bike has been garaged all but one off-season when I was moving. Its not where you park it or how you clean it, bolts corrode over time. Case in point, the box of old rusty bolts on the bottom shelf in my garage. When the bike is 10+ years old, a SS kit for non structural bolts makes lots of sense.

I was suggesting alternatives at the same price as he was quoted, or less, that will satisfy his goals of replacements. In the same vein, I'd suggest looking into billet aluminum bolts, as they are dirt cheap, for anything that's merely decorative, such as belt covers. Several people have replaced their side cover bolts with Aluminum, but I think that, being an oil-seal area, is best left to Ti or steel.

[SeaLander]

You guys are very helpful!

Thank you bergdoerfer for the part numbers and the Omaha reference, great site.

So i picked up some imitation screws at the depot.

There steel with a black coating, I'm not concerned about them looking different than the others at this point, will these corrode any faster or will i have a problem getting them out next year? Are these a softer metal? I think the crackshaft cover is plastic anyway, not sure have to check again.

[junior varsity]

Are you talking about the piece that is on the alternator side cover, used to remove said cover? If so, older monsters use two small counter suck bolts, and strength is not an issue here. If you got some form of steel, you are certainly fine.

[booger]

You guys are very helpful!

Thank you bergdoerfer for the part numbers and the Omaha reference, great site.

So i picked up some imitation screws at the depot.

There steel with a black coating, I'm not concerned about them looking different than the others at this point, will these corrode any faster or will i have a problem getting them out next year? Are these a softer metal? I think the crackshaft cover is plastic anyway, not sure have to check again.

Now those will oxidize really quick. What did you do about the tensioner bolt? Can't buy the proper bolt at Despot I don't think. That bolt secures the tensioner, which is pretty important. I wouldn't play around with Despot bolts if I were you, use the part #s to get the proper bolts and be done with it. FYI the crankshaft cover is cast aluminum, not plastic.
@ ATO, I know bolts corrode over time, but for some reason mine are fine. I've had my bike four years now in the mid-Atlantic area where corrosion is a known problem. All I've done is keep it in an unheated garage and all the bolts on the engine case covers are still in good nick(never installed the SS bolts). I must have some really good factory bolts then.