Doing some rewiring... Supplies & Suggestions

[junior varsity]

I'm working on cleaning up the wiring around the bike. Some runs of wire I find too long, some not long enough for where I want things to go (routing wise) and were I want the fuse block/relays etc located.

I've upgraded some of the main wiring (starter/ground etc) with 8ga. Fine and dandy.

Most of the rest of the stuff looks like a good swap for 12ga, maybe some could even be 16ga.

1) At this point, what are the suggestions for supplies? My basic searches have me thinking that Deans Wire is top notch stuff. I'm looking to do it right, any suggestions?

2) As far as connectors, I look to use primarily the factory stuff where I can. Any other suggestions here?  

As far as ripping the whole thing out and making my own, I don't think I'm ready to go that far yet. I understand I can upgrade the wiring throughout by doing so, but that seems like that would be a very involved job.

I know its a bit of a can of worms. I've pulled the factory harness and am ready to do a little bit of modification here and there.

3) My battery terminals are getting "tall". There's two grounds (one to frame, one directly to motor), two positive leads (one to starter, one to existing wiring harness). On top of that, there's the HID wiring on the terminals as well. On top of that, there's the AG Hammer Power Pulse System (capacitor to keep voltage even) that I just picked up from CA-Cycleworks just recently. Now, in the past I picked up some Powerlet Accessory Terminals cables - they mount to the terminals and provide accessories terminals a few inches off the terminal on a run of wire. The positive side includes an inline fuse. Great, but I'm trying to reduce wiring clutter. Any other options?

Here's the original thought, if I run a single cable from each terminal to the rear of the bike where the new carbon tray I made is, I could drill holes, install bolts/nuts insulated with rubber grommets as new "terminals". These could be wired up for the HID light, the AG Hammer PPS and thirdly (and most useful) have exposed nuts (+ and -) below the undertail for REALLY easy battery tender connection. Concerns?


Gratuitous shot of undertail-tray as it is a work in progress:

[fouramdesigns]

is that tray custom? I'm looking for something just like that.

[junior varsity]

Yup. Here's another shot:



Carbon fiber angle (1.5" light duty) and a carbon fiber sheet. I had no idea how high-gloss it would really be:


(its a mirror)

[Duck-Stew]

Why not relocate the fuse box and relays up under the tank?

[junior varsity]

I had thought about that, but I was going for a clutter free vertical cylinder. (partly for cooling, partly for looks) With the coils, battery, and stock airbox there, I was running short of room. Seems like it would be easier on a non-hooped suspension, since the arm wouldn't really be there.

[Raux]

listen to Stu on this one... you've seen how clean his bikes are !

[fouramdesigns]

where did you get your materials?

[junior varsity]

robotmarketplace.com - 1.5" light duty angle.

dragonplate.com

compositeenvisions.com

protechcomposite.com

I can't remember which of the bottom 3 the particular sheet I used is from (I think protech), but they have all been very good quality. I bought a bunch of samples and it was pretty uniform. You don't need a very thick sheet mind you. 2mm would be far too thick for this type of job, fyi.

The gloss is crazy high on these as well. Its like carbon fiber mirror.

[Duck-Stew]

I had thought about that, but I was going for a clutter free vertical cylinder. (partly for cooling, partly for looks) With the coils, battery, and stock airbox there, I was running short of room. Seems like it would be easier on a non-hooped suspension, since the arm wouldn't really be there.

ditch your lead-acid battery & you'll have enough room...

[slowkitty]

You'll want these connectors; basically dust and waterproof:

http://www.steckermarkt.de/erp/webshop/navigationPath/de_DE/dehttp::1/www.steckermarkt.de:1/erp:1/webshop:1/navigationPath:1/(153,84,0):1/7.Steckverbinder:1/10.Tyco%20electronics:1/6000.Tyco%20electronics%20-%20AMP%20Products:1/10.Tyco%20electronics:1/6000.Tyco%20electronics%20-%20AMP%20Products:1/170.Superseal;jsessionid=EA6417143EF96F7F2AA9DD7C3201A4D9

[junior varsity]

ditch your lead-acid battery & you'll have enough room...

I'm using the Y7 size. That monstrosity the bike came with spewed acid out one time, and that was enough of that. Next stop is those 123A based batteries.

[battlecry]

These guys also have the connectors, and they are not named Assmann:

http://www.touratech-usa.com/shop/show.lasso?sku=015-0082

(cueing Seinfeld: Not that there is anything wrong with it.)

[Kopfjäger]

Why not relocate the fuse box and relays up under the tank?

Why not go with an M-Unit?

http://www.motogadget.com/en/m_unit.html

[DucHead]

Why not go with an M-Unit?

http://www.motogadget.com/en/m_unit.html

"If the motorcycle is equipped with a side stand; a vertical mounting direction is recommended. This means the output terminal shows to up- side and the m-Units topside shows in direction side stand. The alarm will be triggered if the Motorcycle will be moved from the side stand in upright position."

Mounting vertically detracts from this.  Do you have one?  How is it mounted?

Also:  "No push or pull force should act to the device. Area of Installation must be protected from spray water and 30cm away from hot engine or exhaust parts. Maximum ambient temperature must not exceed +80°C or go below -20°C."

[junior varsity]

Why not go with an M-Unit?
http://www.motogadget.com/en/m_unit.html

touché. perhaps i will consider this in the future. full-time riding season is fast approaching, so I am going to button it up for the time being.