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Author Topic: Coring 2000 M750 Cans...  (Read 6536 times)
Javamoose
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« on: March 02, 2010, 11:40:14 PM »

So, I've searched here and all over the web and I can't find anyone that cored a set of stock cans for a 2000-ish M750.  In a few of the posts here and on the DM.org site I found some people saying the took the end-cap off but the internals were totally different than what is picture in all the tutorials out there.

So, anyone have an M750 that they cored the cans on?  Anyone know how there internals on the 750 are different from the other Monsters?  I'm thinking of chopping and coring my stock cans this weekend (assuming we don't have another tsunami) since it looks pretty easy on the other monsters and I have a whole shop at my disposal.  But, I can't afford after market cans nor can I afford to screw my stock cans up, hence trying to find someone (anyone?!) that has done this on this year/model range.  Help!
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WetDuc
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« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2010, 02:49:26 AM »

Your M750 cans have basically the same guts as all the other low mount monster cans.  The only difference is whether or not the model might have a catalytic converter (which your 2000-ish cans probably don't).  You can see the cat converter if you look into the inlet tube of the can, it looks like a honeycomb structure that occupies the entire inside radius of the inlet tube. 
You can just get the sleeve pulled back, grind off the endcap welds, push the sleeve back up and put in the bracket bolts as keepers, cut about 1-4 inches off the can and sleeve, rubber mallet the endcap back on and weld/rivet/sheet metal screw the sleeve, cap and inner can to hold the whole thing together.
 
I found the cutting to actually be pretty easy with a hacksaw and die grinder (cutter wheels), but you can use sawzall, chop saw or band saw as well.
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2007 S2R1000, 2009 M696 & 2008 M695 (foster bikes)
OHIOCAFERACER
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« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2010, 06:17:57 AM »

I just did the cans on my 2001 M750 and they were different than some of the other cans I saw in the other DMF tutorials and vids. My stock cans had 3 internal sections, with the baffles sectioned off with cross over tubes. I took a couple pics and can post what I have later tonight. My process basically took the stock cans...dismantled them....drilled out the spot welds that held the baffles in...pulled the baffles out.....and put it all back together. The mufflers look the same as they did before I took them apart....same length and everything.

Here is my process(i'll add some pics later)
1. Of coarse...removed mufflers from the bike.

2. Using a rubber mallet...hammered on the pipe where it connects to the header, while holding the aluminum sleeve with my hand...this slid the alum cover towards the header end of the muffler. This will expose the factory weld of the end cap to the muffler body.


3. Used a cut off wheel to cut thru the muffler body at the end cap weld.



4. Now...there is a 1.5" tube that exits the end cap...which connects to the baffles....you must slide a hack saw into the cut you just made in the body to cut the tube off. Your end cap should seperate from the muffler body at this point. There was some steel wool like material in mine(flash back material). I removed it and threw it away.

5. Now......you can slide the alum cover towards the newly cut off end. First you will notice the folded end will not go over the rest of the oval can. Being really careful using a wide pry bar.....I carefully bent that part of the alum can up....just enough to go over the rest of the oval can. You dont need to bend this part up much.....just enough to allow it to clear.


6. After removing the alum cover.....you can now see all the factory spot welds in the muffler body. If I remember correctly....there were 6 or 8 spot welds you need to drill out. I center punched each weld...then drilled out with a nice tit step drill bit. Make sure you drill the welds out completely.

7. At this point.......you should be able to work the 3 chamber baffle out. You may need to get some vise grips on inside to pull it out......but it will come out. Also...the end cap will have the smaller 1.5" outlet inside the larger 2.5" pipe....you can pull the smaller tube out also...nothing is holding it inside the end cap outlet. If you want to keep it....you'd have to weld it to the end cap.
Note:These pics are only showing the 2 baffles..there should be one more between the end cap plug. Left in photo is to header pipe.






8. Now with all the baffles removed....take the alum cover and enlarge the mounting holes(oval shape is fine with a dremel) towards the header pipe.....slide the alum cover back onto the muffler body....all the way to till it hits the pipe.

9. Position the end cap so it lines back up with the muffler body and reweld to the can. Be sure to watch that the end cap is even and square as the weld heat wants to move it. You may have to grind down your new end cap weld some.....just to make the alum cover slide back on easier.

10. Slide alum cover back into the stock position and using the rubber mallet you can easily tap the folded section back down to match the part of the can.

11. Reinstall on the bike.


I originally did just a partial baffle removal.....bike sounded/ran better than stock, but wasnt what I wanted still......so I took it all apart again and completely removed every thing from the inside and got the results I wanted. Also.....I have a couple vids of the bike at stock...partial and complete removal I will try and post later also....so you can compare the differences.

« Last Edit: March 05, 2010, 01:43:30 PM by OHIOCAFERACER » Logged

2001 M750 Dark
OHIOCAFERACER
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« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2010, 01:55:52 PM »

Stock Exhaust
StockExhaust.MPG

Partial Cored Exhaust(only 2 of the 3 chambers are still inside the can)
PartialBafflesRemoved.MPG

Complete Core Removal
CompleteRem.MPG
CompleteRemoval.MPG
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2001 M750 Dark
WetDuc
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« Reply #4 on: March 05, 2010, 01:57:11 PM »

Nice chop OHIO...
Your bit should really be in the tutorials section.
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drew.bradshaw
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« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2010, 07:33:57 PM »

bookmarked!  nice writeup  Evil
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Javamoose
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« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2010, 11:03:13 PM »

Shit yeah, man!!  Excellent!  waytogo

Looks like I can get away with rivets for the end-cap, since I don't have access to a welder.

So, vids sound good, how does it sound in person?  Lot louder?  Deeper tone?
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OHIOCAFERACER
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« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2010, 06:28:39 AM »

Thanks guys....hopefully it helps you out JM.

Its pretty easy to de-core these things if you have some mech/fab skills.....and it doesnt take alot of tools. As for riveting the end cap to the alum sleeve.....that would work fine. Kind of like how the dirt bike silencers are made. I had actually thought and may still do.....about welding some nuts to the inside of the end cap and drilling thru the cap and alum cover to make it so I can bolt it all together and service the inside of the can or make adjustments.

As for the sound in person....it is a deeper tone in person. For some reason.....when filming it....the sound is more of a metalic can sound..not sure why. This exhaust mod doesnt make it too loud....now it sounds like a Duc should.
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Javamoose
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« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2010, 09:59:43 AM »

Thanks guys....hopefully it helps you out JM.

Its pretty easy to de-core these things if you have some mech/fab skills.....and it doesnt take alot of tools. As for riveting the end cap to the alum sleeve.....that would work fine. Kind of like how the dirt bike silencers are made. I had actually thought and may still do.....about welding some nuts to the inside of the end cap and drilling thru the cap and alum cover to make it so I can bolt it all together and service the inside of the can or make adjustments.

As for the sound in person....it is a deeper tone in person. For some reason.....when filming it....the sound is more of a metalic can sound..not sure why. This exhaust mod doesnt make it too loud....now it sounds like a Duc should.

Great, that's what I was looking for, deeper tone and maybe a little louder (without spending $800 on a new exhaust = win in my book!).  I'm thinking about shortening the cans too, maybe by about 4-6 inches, which I think will make it a little louder still, but hopefully not too much.

Looks like this should drop the weight of the cans a bit too...those internals look heavy.
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Setsukosan
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« Reply #9 on: March 09, 2010, 06:38:49 AM »

Hey Java, this is kind of late but I had my 2001 Ducati M750 exhaust cored out and cut down by a friend. The sound is awesome for the price, all it is is labor. Or free if you can do it  waytogo



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scott_araujo
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« Reply #10 on: March 10, 2010, 04:23:47 AM »

Really nice job!  I like the partial core, a little deeper but not too loud.  As for the recordings, video cameras don't have super duper mic, but I think we all get the idea Smiley

Scott
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Javamoose
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« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2010, 10:56:51 PM »

Hey Java, this is kind of late but I had my 2001 Ducati M750 exhaust cored out and cut down by a friend. The sound is awesome for the price, all it is is labor. Or free if you can do it  waytogo





Super nice, like those shortened cans!  That's pretty much the length I'm shooting for.  Did you end up welding the end-caps back on?  Was too busy last weekend, hoping to do mine this weekend.  waytogo
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4DoorSi
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« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2010, 05:18:35 AM »

Thanks for the write up waytogo

I am planning on doing this myself.  I also want to cut the cans down in length.  Maybe I'm a little bit anal about it, but I would like to cut it so the "Ducati" on the outside of the can is still there and all the other text is not.  How hard would it be to do it that way?
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scott_araujo
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« Reply #13 on: March 12, 2010, 06:22:14 AM »

 I really like the idea of a partial baffle removal instead of a chop.  I removed a baffle screen on a Kawasaki I owned by ripping it out through the exhaust outlet.  Just what I wanted, a little more bass but not too loud.  This is a great tutorial and I'd like to pull the baffles and do either a partial removal or just drill some more holes.  But I've got one problem...

I don't weld right now and don't have the equipment so I need some welding advice if anyone can offer it.  And this involves welding stainless steel which as I understand can be a little more tricky.  So I see three immediate options:
1) Get a small brazing torch like the Bernzomatic MAPP/Oxygen one at every home depot and braze the thing back together, learning as I go.  I've soldered lots over the years for plumbing and electric and worked with torches for sculpting glass and sculpting sugar. 
2) Buy an inexpensive welder, stick or wire feed, and learn as I go with that.  Probably much trickier and I only have a single 15A circuit in my garage.
3) Get things where I want them and take it to a local shop to have them weld it back up.

I think option 1 is the least expensive with buying equipment, option 2 the most likely to screw up, and option 3 is the easiest.

Thoughts?

Scott
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« Reply #14 on: March 13, 2010, 06:47:59 AM »

Thanks for the write up waytogo

I am planning on doing this myself.  I also want to cut the cans down in length.  Maybe I'm a little bit anal about it, but I would like to cut it so the "Ducati" on the outside of the can is still there and all the other text is not.  How hard would it be to do it that way?

Cutting the cans and the alum sleeve down the way you are descibing should be pretty easy. I had also thought about doing it as you state....by removing all the text and leaving the Ducati at the end. I may end up trying to find another set, just to experiment with. Really....chopping these cans is very simple and if you have any mech/fab abilities.....there shouldnt be any problems.

Quote
I really like the idea of a partial baffle removal instead of a chop.  I removed a baffle screen on a Kawasaki I owned by ripping it out through the exhaust outlet.  Just what I wanted, a little more bass but not too loud.  This is a great tutorial and I'd like to pull the baffles and do either a partial removal or just drill some more holes.  But I've got one problem...

I don't weld right now and don't have the equipment so I need some welding advice if anyone can offer it.  And this involves welding stainless steel which as I understand can be a little more tricky.  So I see three immediate options:
1) Get a small brazing torch like the Bernzomatic MAPP/Oxygen one at every home depot and braze the thing back together, learning as I go.  I've soldered lots over the years for plumbing and electric and worked with torches for sculpting glass and sculpting sugar. 
2) Buy an inexpensive welder, stick or wire feed, and learn as I go with that.  Probably much trickier and I only have a single 15A circuit in my garage.
3) Get things where I want them and take it to a local shop to have them weld it back up.

I think option 1 is the least expensive with buying equipment, option 2 the most likely to screw up, and option 3 is the easiest.

Thoughts?

Scott

Scott......really......if you just wanted to pop-rivet it all back together....that would work(no one would really ever know). Just make sure all the rivets are tight. Once you got everything cut open and have drilled out the spot welds that hold in the baffles.....you can remove the baffles...modify them as you want....slide them back into the can.....position them anywhere you want.....drill holes thru can and that lip on the baffle plates and pop rivet it to the can. As long as you get the rivets flush to the can....the alum sleeve should slide over fine. Slide your alum sleeve back over and then pop rivet the end cap to the end of the alum sleeve. Then....in the future.....if you want to make changes to it....your drill out the rivets and change whatever you want.

If I decide to do another set of cans.........I will take some better pics and maybe some vids.
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