Newbie clip on questions...

[BlackKat]

Ok lads,
So after much shopping I've finally picked up my Monster. Went out with the intent of an 05ish S2R and with the frustrations of a month and a half of being screwed about by multiple sellers up and down the midwest, I bought a 99 750 and saved a crap load of of money for mods!

The plan is a retro cafe bike. I built a 3 year long project of a 73 cb 350 cafe that spend time at a few shows etc...this was my first bike at age 36. haha Needless to say, I have a few ideas for this build!

My question is, when it comes to clip ons, should I (ONLY) mount below the top plate on the triple tree? In the case of the old Honda CB, if you lower the front end enough to mount them above the top plate, you will change the geometry on the bike so much it drastically changes the handling-that is, in a bad way!

Basic engineering, this holds true on any bike. Has anyone mounted them on top with success? I'm caught in a couple minds, I like the look and feel of the clip ons, however, I don't want to ruin my ride comfort completely and don't necessarily like the look of those clip ons with 3 and 4 inch rises.

Cheers!

[ducpainter]

You could get a set off SS forks and mount them above the triple.

SS forks were longer.

The forks you have now are non adjustable Showas which are good if you upgrade springs and valves. The later SS bikes ('03 up) used non adjustable Marzocchis and there aren't as many upgrade parts for those forks.

All the adjustable forks were Showa.

[stopintime]

IMO, lowering the front enough to make room for clip ons above the triple is too much lowering.
Usually mounting on top is a result/option of fitting other and longer forks.

There are a few clip ons with just a little rise, if that's acceptable. Don't know how/if they will clear your model triple though.

Clip ons with no rise will lower the height of the grip by at least 5 inches, compared to the modern tapered S*R bars, and even more on your bike. Are you cool with that?

[BlackKat]

ahhh...that makes sense.

Any idea of what the desired length of the forks should be? My bikes has a less than documented history. I bought it from a relative of the original owner who had passed away and as I dig into this, I find more and more little things that aren't stock.

I knew I wanted twin disc brakes up front and all the monsters from that time period I looked at needed to have updated forks added to put the twin calipers on. Maybe an option I didn't know of (based on the vast month and a half of reading I've done  ), but my forks have a right side mount...no caliper obviously. They are not adjustable, this is true.

Thanks again!

[ducpainter]

ahhh...that makes sense.

Any idea of what the desired length of the forks should be? My bikes has a less than documented history. I bought it from a relative of the original owner who had passed away and as I dig into this, I find more and more little things that aren't stock.

I knew I wanted twin disc brakes up front and all the monsters from that time period I looked at needed to have updated forks added to put the twin calipers on. Maybe an option I didn't know of (based on the vast month and a half of reading I've done  ), but my forks have a right side mount...no caliper obviously. They are not adjustable, this is true.

Thanks again!

I believe the M750 came with a plastic cover on the r/h caliper mount.

[BlackKat]

yeah, 5" is way too much of a drop. Ideally, I was hoping to do a set of the medium rise woodmans or similar and mount on top of the triple tree. Thats "ideally" based on looks and comfort, but I don't want to shorten the front end so much as to make the bikes handling twitchy.

Ok, so chances are my forks are stock and the guy at my local Duc shop's memory was rusty when he told me I would need to update my forks for sure to add the right side brake.

[ducpainter]

The upper (aluminum) part of the forks on my 96 900 are 17 3/8"

The upper aluminum section of a set of forks off an '03 800SS are 19 3/4". They're Marzocchi

SS forks would be the ticket.

[stopintime]

You have two front end issues.

The non-adjustable issue is not as important as the fact they are borderline crap. So, if you decide to upgrade you might as well upgrade to a set of forks that are long enough for clip ons above. Then you will have solved the dual brake issue as well.

You'd need a larger brake master, new lines and at least one new rotor and caliper. How much cash do you have?  

[ducpainter]

You have two front end issues.

The non-adjustable issue is not as important as the fact they are borderline crap. So, if you decide to upgrade you might as well upgrade to a set of forks that are long enough for clip ons above. Then you will have solved the dual brake issue as well.

You'd need a larger brake master, new lines and at least one new rotor and caliper. How much cash do you have?  

If you upgrade the Showas they are far from crap.

The Marzocchis?

[stopintime]

If you upgrade the Showas they are far from crap.

The Marzocchis?

Non adjustable Marzocchi = borderline crap
Showa = good

Agree?

[ducpainter]

Non adjustable Marzocchi = borderline crap
Showa = good

Agree?

Pretty much.

I'd add...

As supplied they both leave much to be desired.

If the upgrade options for the Marzocchi forks were as readily available and cost effective as for the Showa it would be a wash.

The fact that the only options for upgrading the M forks cost about $1K US makes them relative crap.

[BlackKat]

Obviously, a cost effective approach is desired because there are many little tweeks I would like to do before the 2 week long (only half kidding) riding season starts here in Ohio.

The flip side, I spent about $5k less than what was budgeted when I first started shopping for my bike...so, I am not afraid to take the best approach to do her proper!

The lines, cailpers (as I'll update them both) and other brake bits, wheel included is not really my issues. Just buying the right stuff the first time is more important. Part of me just says fackall and buy Ohlins in the right size and be done.

[ducpainter]

Obviously, a cost effective approach is desired because there are many little tweeks I would like to do before the 2 week long (only half kidding) riding season starts here in Ohio.

The flip side, I spent about $5k less than what was budgeted when I first started shopping for my bike...so, I am not afraid to take the best approach to do her proper!

The lines, cailpers (as I'll update them both) and other brake bits, wheel included is not really my issues. Just buying the right stuff the first time is more important. Part of me just says fackall and buy Ohlins in the right size and be done.

Maybe look into a GSXR fork swap.

It will give you better brakes too.

Do a search...it's been posted about several times.

[BlackKat]

hmmm...certainly more cost effective than Ohlins, right? I presume that would give me the length I need. Damn, I have opened up a can of worms here.

Whats most important:

Time- ride time vs down time
Money...In my pocket or more thoughtfully spend on other projects
Cool factor-Look what I did!
Project completion- Is it ever, really?

[ducpainter]

hmmm...certainly more cost effective than Ohlins, right? I presume that would give me the length I need. Damn, I have opened up a can of worms here.

Whats most important:

Time- ride time vs down time
Money...In my pocket or more thoughtfully spend on other projects
Cool factor-Look what I did!
Project completion- Is it ever, really?

not certain about length, but there are enough of those bikes around to come up with that info.

PM one of the members here that have done it to get real world numbers.