Prepping for powdercoat...

[gOoIe B]

OK, I've got a table full of raw aluminum parts that are just about ready to go in for powder treatment, but I've encountered a couple minor stumbles in my progress.  Looking for a bit of help/advice...



First of all, how the hell do you guys remove #2 in the above diagram from the rearset?  I've put considerable pressure on it from the back of the rearset by clamping it in a table vice with a 1" socket against the back side, but I'm worried I'm gonna destroy the rubber or the rearset itself if I apply much more force.  any better ways of going about this?

Secondly, I've got my cam inspection covers off, and now I need to pull the bearings.  I've removed the snaprings holding them in, but they still seem like they're press-fit really tight into the cover??  Anybody know a safe way of removing these?  I'd appreciate any help or tips...

as soon as this project is over with and reassembled, I promise you guys pics

[gOoIe B]

after a bit of investigation I came across this thread:  http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=22514.msg398917#msg398917

it sounds like, at least on the 696 rearsets, the part analogous to the #2 part in the above diagram is a high-temp rubber and can be left in for the powdercoat process.  Anybody around here familiar enough to confirm that the same holds true for the S*R rearsets?  that would be awesome; these things are pressed into the rearset really, really tight!

While I'm thinking of it, I have another question for you knowledgeables.  I'm also having some brembo goldline 4-pot calipers coated.  I've removed everything (pads + associated hardware, bleeder valve, brakeline, etc.) except for the pistons inside each caliper half.  will this be suitable for undergoing the powdercoat process, or should I find a way to pull all the pistons out as well?  I would imagine brake caliper internals could withstand temperatures greater than what a powdercoat oven would produce, but I'm checking against my personal logic...

[Duck-Stew]

Calipers:

ALL must be removed down to the two casting halves.  Pistons, seals, bolts....everything.  Then, be absolutely sure your coater KNOWS what to mask...

Rear-sets:

Try applying a bit of heat (heat gun, not torch) to the rearset around the bushing.  There could be a chemical 'adhesive' (for lack of a better word) holding that into the rearset that would likely be broken down with the heat and allow it to be removed.

Cam-end caps:

The bearings are pressed in.  Try going to a machine shop to see if they can help out.  It's not an easy process for a DIY'er...

[gOoIe B]

Thanks for the tips, I'll work on the rearsets more tonite with a heat gun, and hopefully the guys at the local community college machine shop can pull the bearings from my cam end covers.

Best way for extracting caliper pistons?  they're pushed in all the way ATM.  maybe some compressed air to the brake fluid inlet?

[Duck-Stew]

Put your rag between the pistons so that they don't nick each other and then use some compressed air.  Try a light amount of pressure at first as that method (which I've done) does work very effectively.  If you're not able to use a light pressure...then just be careful.

[He Man]

Ive Powder coated 2 rearsets with the rubber bushings in. They havent given me any problems at all.

I had it in the oven for about an hour at 375F.

[gOoIe B]

Ive Powder coated 2 rearsets with the rubber bushings in. They havent given me any problems at all.

I had it in the oven for about an hour at 375F.

thanks for the info, I will ask my powder guy today what temp he bakes at.  Also gonna ask if he primarily uses thermoset or thermoplastic powders...

[He Man]

thanks for the info, I will ask my powder guy today what temp he bakes at.  Also gonna ask if he primarily uses thermoset or thermoplastic powders...

it varies based on your choice of application, and color (mostly application, interior, exterior mainly)

It doenst matter waht temp he bakes at, but what temp the power requires to cure at. The power I was using just so happened to be 375 for 20 minutes once the part reaches that temp.

What you should tell him is, you want something that is good for exterior use, with the color you want, and make sure that you know that there may be imperfections. Simply because your part is cast, sometimes it doesnt outgas perfectly and you may get a speck or 2.

[gOoIe B]

thanks for the info, I will discuss these matters with my powder guy tonite.  hope to have all my parts ready by the end of tomorrow.

[ducpainter]

it varies based on your choice of application, and color (mostly application, interior, exterior mainly)

It doenst matter waht temp he bakes at, but what temp the power requires to cure at. The power I was using just so happened to be 375 for 20 minutes once the part reaches that temp.

What you should tell him is, you want something that is good for exterior use, with the color you want, and make sure that you know that there may be imperfections. Simply because your part is cast, sometimes it doesnt outgas perfectly and you may get a speck or 2.

You realize that interior powder is epoxy and exterior is polyester...

right?

[He Man]

I went back reread what i wrote in reponsoe. what was i thinking?

However on the topic, you can use epoxy on exterior, the gloss will fade quickly if left to the elements, especially UV. A lot of matte colors come in Epoxy and Polyester based. You can use a matte epoxy based powder outside without any ill effects. It will still hold up.

Theres also a ton of different Polyester coatings. Some of them are even epoxy blends, but still decent for exterior use. The best ones are TGICs and urethanes

Most powders are thermoset, and once they are fnished curing in the oven, you can pretty much leave them in the oven for hours on end at the temperature they are set to cure at without ill effect. (and to get to ducpainters point, Epoxy and Polyester blends are all thermosets which is why you can leave them in the oven at the curing temp past their cure time)


BTW: im reading this all off a manual i made from the past few months of powdercoating stuff. Theres more information than you should be concerned about. just tell him the color and you want it to stand up to the elemnts

[silversled]

Here are my covers done in epoxy powder coat for my S2R project build.  I'll report on how they do in the FLorida sunshine   

Also I couldn't get the rubber isolators off the footpeg brackets and left them on.  Just mask the hole.

BTW, the frame and swingarm were done in polyester for UV durability. 

[gOoIe B]

silver, that looks really sharp!  I was leaning toward a gloss black for the rearsets and whatnot, but you've got me considering the matte finish even more now.  You should snap+post a pic of the whole bike.

[gOoIe B]

since we all love pics, I will show you a glimpse of what I'm working with so far.

[silversled]

silver, that looks really sharp!  I was leaning toward a gloss black for the rearsets and whatnot, but you've got me considering the matte finish even more now.  You should snap+post a pic of the whole bike.

Ask and you shall receive...but it's a work in progress

It's just a simple build to get it titled then all the serious mods start (dual headlights, radial masters, paint, etc).   [moto]
I just cored the exhaust this weekend and everything is going back to the powder coaters for a black high temp ceramic coating.