S2R aluminum rearset bolt question

[booger]

So I removed my rearsets for powdercoating, and the 24mm aluminum clutch side bolt seemed a bit tight backing out of the swingarm pivot shaft.
When I finally get it out I discover it's a bit galled.


This is the first time I think that the rearsets have been taken off. Certainly the first time I have taken them off. Anyway upon closer inspection I see that the threads in the end of the swingarm pivot shaft are the reason - they don't appear to be tapped correctly. Swapping the bolts to the other side confirms this. The brake side threads in smoothly, the clutch side gets really tight after a couple of turns. What to do here? Can I just go out and get a tap & die set, and run a tap through it, or what? Up until this point I thought I had a Wednesday bike.

[Speeddog]

Get a tap and try to clean up the threads in the pivot shaft.
Some of the aluminum from the bolt is now in the threads.

Aluminum fasteners usually F up that way.

[booger]

Thanks, shop manual says it's an M12x1.25 with a torque of 40 lb/ft, does this sound right to you? Furthermore, any known superior replacements, like stainless or Ti?

[Speeddog]

I don't know of any replacements offhand, but that doesn't mean there aren't any.

M12x1.25 is a fine thread, so not likely available from standard hardware stores.

McMaster-Carr has allen bolts in that size, but they're black-oxide coated and will rust in about 3 heartbeats.

Check with the aftermarket moto bolts guys?

[booger]

Found a source for Ti replacements, racebolts.com - a frustratingly oddball diameter and thread pitch, about the same cost as the factory aluminum bolt. Also have some trick drilled Ti washers to go 'neath it should I fancy that sort of thing. I'd buy SS if I could find it though, I'm not a fan of overpriced bling anymore.

Had to order a tap to chase the threads on the pivot shaft - worse comes to worse I'll have to get a new shaft from eBay. I think the Ducati machine shop workers need to stop smoking crack on the job. Either that or stop using pneumatic tools to zip the goddamn aluminum bolts onto the pivot shafts. Must have been some kind of trash in the threads in the pivot shaft when the bolt was put on at the factory.

[He Man]

link?

[DucHead]

link?

http://www.racebolts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=132

...not sure about the length, but 25 mm looks close.  You'd need a washer for under the flange head.

[booger]

actual shank length on the bolt is 21mm, and the threads in the end of the pivot shaft are about 20; steel washer under the bolt takes up 1.5, so the 20mm length would be what you want

[He Man]

http://www.racebolts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=132

...not sure about the length, but 25 mm looks close.  You'd need a washer for under the flange head.

oh i thought you ment a direct replacement, i could do the same thing with SS.

[booger]

oh i thought you ment a direct replacement, i could do the same thing with SS.

Yeah, where? I searched everywhere; ended up buying overpriced Ti bling, and some drilled Ti washers to go with

[He Man]

fastenal, i ahve one locally, and they pretty much well have every type of fastern you can inmagine.

[DucHead]

Yeah, where? I searched everywhere; ended up buying overpriced Ti bling, and some drilled Ti washers to go with

When you get them bolted up, please post a pic.  Titanium or not, it is useful information regarding a replacement.

[booger]

Got the trash cleaned out of the threads


And here are the replacement rearset bolts - Ti with rolled threads as opposed to the machined threads on the stock aluminum bolts, so hopefully no more galling. Ti washers underneath. The look is OK, maybe as good as the stock look, maybe not; I'm not sure it makes a huge difference to me at this point.