Clutch Problems -- I'm currently travelling cross-country and need some help!

[Michael]

After 300 miles of solid travel today (out of a 360 mile trip), I started having problems with my clutch.

Now, I started my trip somewhere warm, but when I began having problems it was near freezing outside, and it was worst after a long rest stop for dinner. My destination was much warmer, and I noticed that the problem seemed to go away as I got out of the mountains. But that isn't conclusive. I mean, it could just be an intermittent, off-and-on problem that is getting worse.

'96 m900 w/ 30,000 miles (dry clutch).

Here's what started happening:

• Clutch lever felt loose, not as tight as it normally is. When I pull it in all the way, it didn't engage the clutch all of the way I kept moving forward until I had to stall the bike to stop. That only happened once, after the bike got cold in near freezing temperatures. Normally my clutch fully engages within the first half of the lever being pulled in. And it seemed to get a little better after I got out of the cold, but it still wasn't back to normal.
• Before that, I noticed that I couldn't put the bike into neutral. Normally neutral isn't easy to find anyway, but this time it was impossible. I could feel a noticeable difference in the shifter and how it moved (between first and second).
• I am still able to shift without a problem, I mean, I've been power shifting (correctly).
• I wasn't driving aggressively and my trip consisted of all highway driving that didn't require much shifting at all.

Does anyone have any advice?

I have access to tools, btw.

[WTSDS]

Dunno what is wrong, but I have a dry clutch which had various hassles at 20,000 kms and if I was out on the road ( as I was last week on a 2,000 km tour of duty  ) I'd be taking off the cover and eyeballing the clutch plates whilst pumping the lever.  All you need is an Allen key, not all the screws around the cover need to be undone.

If there's not much movement of the pressure plate you have hydraulic probs and you'll have to be inventive to get yerself to a the closest workshop situation, otherwise I'd be pulling the plates out, cleaning, scraping and deburring things - the outer tangs can get hooked over the basket and cause odd behaviour, as can wear on the hub splines.

[Howley]

Sounds like if possible you should bleed the clutch. If you can't do that, tie the lever against the bar overnight. If it still happens when you're riding, pump the lever in and out (without getting to the point where it actuates the clutch) and it should start to firm up.

[ducpainter]

+1 Try bleeding the system.

[Michael]

So, to bleed the system, all I need to do is zip-tie down the clutch lever and leave it overnight?

[Slide Panda]

No. Bleeding is done normally by drawing fluid out the bleeder at the slave. It's not uncommon for some air to get trapped high up in the line, by the master that's at total PITA to get out that low ass bleeder. That's where strapping the lever to the bar comes in. Strapping it down like that opens the port to the reservoir, allowing bubbles to work their way up out of the line. This is by no means a sure fix - really you need to bleed the system, and probably strap the bar down over night for good measure.

Give it a good bleed - I say go through at least one reservoirs worth of fluid to ensure everything in the system is nice and fresh.

[nomadwarmachine]

You can definitely bleed the clutch with items purchased for around $10 from an autoparts store.  You will need a wrench to fit the bleeder (8mm, I think, but don't quote me on that) some clear tubing to go from the bleeder to a collection bottle (soda bottle is fine) and some new DOT 3/4 (not DOT 5) fluid.

To bleed/flush the clutch, (1) open the reservoir cap on the master cylinder (maybe place some rags over the tank first, as the fluid will destroy paint). (2) place the clear hose on the bleeder at the clutch slave cylinder and apply some pressure to the lever; (3) with the system pressurized, loosen the bleeder so the fluid begins to flow out; (4) pull the lever down to pump out the fluid, topping off the reservoir as you go.  Be careful not to suck any air back in through the tubing or to let the reservoir run dry.  (5) Keep topping off and pumping the lever until the fluid is clean an no bubbles are visible. 

If you have a leak in the system (bad clutch slave seal is the most likely, especially if you are running the stock slave), this will be a temporary fix, at best.

Good luck!

[ute]

agreed do a bleed

if you still have air at the MC you can bleed at the banjo of the MC

[Ddan]

To bleed it, pull the lever, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, release the lever.  Repeat until no more bubbles appear in the bled fluid.  Don't let the reservoir go dry, and if you are bleeding with the cap off the reservoir, move the lever slowly or you'll squirt fluid out.  You really shouldn't have air trapped in the master unless you ran the system dry or get air in while you're bleeding.   Tying the lever to the bar overnight tapping the master with the handle of a screwdriver will help with that.

[Michael]

Thank you to everyone for the advice.

I have enough tools here that I can bleed the system. I just need to find fluid and a hose. I found an AutoZone a few miles away from where I'm at. They're usually pretty good about oddball parts, like a specific size of clear hose.

I'll let you guys know how it goes.

[Michael]

Got home safe!

When I was in San Diego, I was able to bleed the clutch (thanks to everyone's instructions). Auto Zone actually had a clear rubber hose that fit perfectly.

As it turns out, the fluid level was very low. And I'm assuming that let a bit of air in.

So, I filled up the res, bled the system of bubbles, and it was good to go.

I didn't flush the entire thing with new fluid. I had new fluid, but I figured I should just leave well-enough alone. I'll flush it now that I'm back. I think I'll do the brake lines, too.

Anyway, thank you everyone who helped. You got me home safe!

[nomadwarmachine]

Glad you got home safe, and thanks for the update!

[ducpainter]

Got home safe!

When I was in San Diego, I was able to bleed the clutch (thanks to everyone's instructions). Auto Zone actually had a clear rubber hose that fit perfectly.

As it turns out, the fluid level was very low. And I'm assuming that let a bit of air in.

So, I filled up the res, bled the system of bubbles, and it was good to go.

I didn't flush the entire thing with new fluid. I had new fluid, but I figured I should just leave well-enough alone. I'll flush it now that I'm back. I think I'll do the brake lines, too.

Anyway, thank you everyone who helped. You got me home safe!

I'm glad you're home safe and sound.

Now it's time to deal with your leaking slave.

The fluid doesn't evaporate so if the system was low you have a leak.

If you have a stock slave you can buy a replacement seal at the dealer for about $10.

A light honing and you'll be good to go for another few years...

or you can buy an afternarket slave.

[avizpls]

Or the middle option: a new piston from monsterparts.com that was my solution to the same problem and its been perfect.

although I dont see it on his site now.

[ducpainter]

Or the middle option: a new piston from monsterparts.com that was my solution to the same problem and its been perfect.

although I dont see it on his site now.

...and an excellent one.

It's an Evoluzione product. Perhaps a sponsor carries it.