Valve adjustment issues

[He Man]

That's a pretty nasty scar on that arm. I think you should get it welded up asap.

TIG or MIG? 

I got the closing shim off eventually. I took a clothes hanger folded in half and then put a curve on it and stuck it inside and had a friend push on it then i started to tap the closing shim until it cam off. it was alot esier since the valve was firmly pushing back. Defintely needed 2nd set of hands for that one.

MBP collets do not fit without swapping to smaller closing shims. to much binding on the cam gear.  either ill sell them or get ECS to install them since it would be to costly to get a billion shims just to see which one fits best.

Clearly seen below, my bike runs like crap with reason.
Horizontal 
Intake
Open/Close .005/.002
Exhaust
Open/Close .006/.002

Verticle
Intake
Open/Close .004/.003
Exhaust
Open/Close .005/.003

[seevtsaab]

You should be able to insert an 8mm allen wrench, or similar, through the intake cover side and hold the closer away from the valve.

+2 on this, I struggled mightily until the light bulb went off. Like an extra pair of hands where there isn't room for an extra pair.

[He Man]

i need to try that next time. I couldnt get the 8mm easily, and a 2nd pair of hands was commig in. so i said make the beast with two backs it.  I have to get back in there later to measure the shims when i get my damn micrometer back.

[He Man]

borrowed a micrometer and bought another shim mearsuing tool.

Since the MBP collets cause binding and i want to avoid buying new shims, i think i can get away with just installing hte collets, then check for binding, then sand the closing shim .001" at a time and see when i lose the binding condition but still be able to spin it.... it will take a LONG ass time though. any other suggestions? Maybe measure all the shims and start swaping some around.

[Ddan]

You can measure all the shims and you will most likely be able to use some.  A lot of shops will swap shims for a few bucks.

[♣ McKraut ♣]

TIG or MIG? 

I got the closing shim off eventually. I took a clothes hanger folded in half and then put a curve on it and stuck it inside and had a friend push on it then i started to tap the closing shim until it cam off. it was alot esier since the valve was firmly pushing back. Defintely needed 2nd set of hands for that one.

MBP collets do not fit without swapping to smaller closing shims. to much binding on the cam gear.  either ill sell them or get ECS to install them since it would be to costly to get a billion shims just to see which one fits best.

Clearly seen below, my bike runs like crap with reason.
Horizontal 
Intake
Open/Close .005/.002
Exhaust
Open/Close .006/.002

Verticle
Intake
Open/Close .004/.003
Exhaust
Open/Close .005/.003

what kind of numbers are you shooting for?

[hackers2r]

He Man, first off, the SAME thing happened to me when I did my adjustment.  That shit SUCKS.  Took forever to get the closing shim loose again.  I believe I ended up using a combo of prying with a TINY screw driver at the collet and pushing down on the shim.  Was a REAL PITA.  Second, those numbers aren't bad at all man.  How many miles are on the bike?  And like mentioned above, what # are you shooting for?

[Silver King]

Maybe measure all the shims and start swaping some around.

Without a stockpile of shims and no reasonably close dealer, that is what I did.  Measured all the clearances and all of the shims first.  Put 'em all back together (figured I could use the practice  ) and then ordered new shims from EMS.  Sloooooow going this way but it seemed to work.  EMS ships super fast and, it seems to me anyway, that his shims are much more accurate than the ones I bought from a dealership (over-sanded one  ).  If you go to a dealership, bring your micrometer.  Then.... you get to play the "which way does this half ring go" game. 

[Duckintime]

TIG or MIG? 

I got the closing shim off eventually. I took a clothes hanger folded in half and then put a curve on it and stuck it inside and had a friend push on it then i started to tap the closing shim until it cam off. it was alot esier since the valve was firmly pushing back. Defintely needed 2nd set of hands for that one.

MBP collets do not fit without swapping to smaller closing shims. to much binding on the cam gear.  either ill sell them or get ECS to install them since it would be to costly to get a billion shims just to see which one fits best.

Clearly seen below, my bike runs like crap with reason.
Horizontal 
Intake
Open/Close .005/.002
Exhaust
Open/Close .006/.002

Verticle
Intake
Open/Close .004/.003
Exhaust
Open/Close .005/.003

Are those numbers really that bad to make the bike run poorly?

[He Man]

i dont know if they are that bad that they run poorly. But the bike certainly does run poorly. Im not sure if the TPS and CO level has anything to do with how shitty it runs (im sure it does, but how much i dont know). It was last checked about 7,000 miles ago.

Im shooting for the 2v specs i have in my haynes (i copied this from ducati suite, im pretty sure they are the same)


Intake openers:       .003"-.004"
Exhaust openers:    .004"-.005"

Intake closers:        .000"-.001"
Exhaust closers:     .000"-.001"

hackers2r, once i got a 2nd pair of hands getting the collet off wasnt a problem at all.

[hackers2r]

Yeah, now that I look closer, those closers are off.  How is the bike running like crap, what symptoms?  Good to hear you got that shim off!  I was by myself, what a mission it was!

[mojo]

Those numbers aren't bad at all.  When I did my valve adjustment, my closing shim clearances ranged from .020-.026

[He Man]

Those numbers aren't bad at all.  When I did my valve adjustment, my closing shim clearances ranged from .020-.026

inch or mm???

the bike has a bunch of flat spots, and its always coughing up the intake and it always feels rough.

[He Man]

Searching around, i found this post by duckstew...

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=33755.msg588379#msg588379

All the openers measured 0.005" and all the closers were at 0.002".  I left it all alone.  No need to mess with that...

which leads me to ask, why the hell is my bike running so crappy if those specs are pretty good.

I have some other questions that i found answer through search, but just wanted to verify them because im doubting if i was doing it right the first time or not.

You are suppose to measure the valves at TDC during the end of the Compression stroke. But if you remove the belts, you can just measure them when the opening rocker arm is loose, or course at TDC just to prevent the valve from falling in if u have to remove the closing shim correct?

the 2nd question is when to measure the top cylinder. There is a hash mark on the 8o clockish positiion. thats where the cam should be if i am looking to make measurements right.

[seevtsaab]

my recollection could be bad but on mine (not a DS) both pulleys have a hashmark corresponding to one cylinder's (horiz?) TDC.