696 rebuild - on the road & stage 2

[Raux]

*these are all winter mod ideas btw the way. GOT TO RIDE SOON

I've been reading a bit more about intake ports so i have a plan

PC V - need to get
1100 cams for more aggressive valves - have
ergal cam gears that allow some adjustment of timing as well. -have

increase the intake opening at the top TB. but keep it the same and the bottom, smooth it a bit through the head. basically force MORE air into the same port size with the more aggressive cam profile. should speed up the intake flow AND allow more air in. - need to do

Get a friend to make a new airbox, basically a larger CF box using the old one as the form, ie skin it. but with an 848 style air filter between the two intake ports at the top. or turn the stock sideways. this should increase the volume of the airbox and decrease the turbulence of the flow that the stock airfilter location has to cause. - need to do

also still thinking i can figure out how to use the 999 intake plenums with the center located injectors and plug the stock locations. - need to do but have

[Raux]

This is the first 'new' Monster I'm actually looking forward to the completion of!  

Raux, nice work thus far and I'm sure there are 'final touches' that will add more to the bike than what you've already shown.  Kudos!!!

BTW, I did some research while still employed @ the local Duc shop (left for a better job).  Turns out the 796's run the same cams as the 696's do.  Just thought I'd put that out there.

Thanks, Stu

This wouldn't have been possible without you, Mark, Bruce and others. The encouragement and knowledge given to me over the last year really pushed me to do something I've never done before, but have always dreamt about.

[Duck-Stew]

Thanks, Stu

This wouldn't have been possible without you, Mark, Bruce and others. The encouragement and knowledge given to me over the last year really pushed me to do something I've never done before, but have always dreamed about.

-=blush=-   

I may be listed as an inspiration for your work, but your work is just that:  all yours. 

[ChrisH]

So the M1100 cams can be used as more aggressive cams for the 696? If so, that's pretty cool!

If you are going to do some headwork, do it up right the first time! Bore the throttle body, use a velocity stack on the Throttle body that draws air from the custom carbon air box like you are thinking, and have someone like Dan Paramore maximize the power through his unbelievably awesome headwork. That's what I'd do if I have the money. Hell, I'll probably find a way to have the money at some point anyway 

http://www.dprracing.com/

[Raux]

the cam is theory at this point. no one has done it with the 696

the headwork will be done at the shop i'm at now. not going to go bigger throughout as the TB are the bigger ones as on the 1100 so i know they are big enough. i'm just going to try and speed up the air by forcing more into the same size TB and smooth the head part to allow the higher velocity without disturbing it too much.

for the stacks i have a set of 999 with the high mount injectors. thinking about trying that, but if not, i have a set of 916 aluminum ones i'll use as they are larger than the current ones built into the stock airbox.

plan is to give the airbox more volume with larger mouths on the bells, less internal turbulence in the box by moving the filter out of the interior.

[ChrisH]

Sounds like a solid plan! Can't wait to hear results! Good luck with your project, looks awfully fun!

[Veloce-Fino]

Raux, I figured I should thank you in advance for pioneering all these modifications on the 696.

After your project is complete I'll be using it as the textbook for my own modifications.


also, christmas is getting ever closer. Better hurry up 

[Raux]

FREAKING bar end mirrors don't fit the bar 

can NOTHING go on easily? Need to take about a mm or more off each diameter on the inserts to fit. the woodcraft bars are pretty thick aluminum so the inner diameter is much smaller than the steel bar.

found some black reflective tape today. gonna go ahead and put a small strip on each spoke to get some safety going.

also ordered the rear brake pressure switch for the light.

readjusted the woodcraft clipons. more swept back. man, i'm gonna need to work out my core muscles before riding this for a long time.

rearsets are high and forward now, may adjust them a bit lower but still forward.

[stopintime]

....................

rearsets are high and forward now, may adjust them a bit lower but still forward.

Forwardsets? Don't you need them to be further rear to match and support your (clip ons) changed body position?
Which ones did you get?

[ngk12]

Hey Raux. just saw the write up on the bike. youve got some really sweet stuff going on, and im glad to see youre out riding again.

you should get a magnesium alt cover for it? 

[Raux]

Forwardsets? Don't you need them to be further rear to match and support your (clip ons) changed body position?
Which ones did you get?

Style and Performance. about 4 to 6 positions. right now i think at most forward and high.
if i go more to the rear my feet will be less under me and unable to help keep up my core.
we're talking maybe 1 inch each way.

[Raux]

Hey Raux. just saw the write up on the bike. youve got some really sweet stuff going on, and im glad to see youre out riding again.

you should get a magnesium alt cover for it? 

yeah i should huh. cause if i HAD one, it certainly would be online with pics

[stopintime]

Style and Performance. about 4 to 6 positions. right now i think at most forward and high.
if i go more to the rear my feet will be less under me and unable to help keep up my core.
we're talking maybe 1 inch each way.

If you put the pegs rearward, it lowers your knees, which in it's turn opens up the hip joint. An open hip joint allows the pelvis to rotate forward and straighten the lower back (L4 L5). Bonus of an open hip joint is better functionality with regards to muscle control/strength, which is welcome when controlling a bike.

The more forward your upper body is, the more rear your pegs need to be - to ensure a natural function/linkage of the body, head to toe & back. Of course, the rearward limit is when applied lower body strength pushes you forward, not up - then it's too far. In my experience, all Monster generations needs quite a lot rearward'ing when clip ons are introduced.

YMMV

[Raux]

good to know.

i'll try the high rear position first, then low rear, before moving forward high then low

will do a little riding on all of them to feel the difference.

[ngk12]

yeah i should huh. cause if i HAD one, it certainly would be online with pics

Ill post some pics in a few days, the cover was just put on today. I get the bike back tomorrow, then i have to install a bunch of parts, then ill post some before, crashed and after pics. but the build up wont be nearly as extreme as yours.