Clutch removal/install... Done... But EVR hub nut doesn't fit

[Amlethae]

I've been searching here and the google for hours now looking for tips/tricks to installing a new dry clutch without a clutch holding tool to very little avail.

I've read that putting the bike in gear and having someone hold down the rear break should get me by.  But I'm a bit nervous to start the project without some confirmations.  (I dont want to get half way through and then realize I need to wait on a tool to arrive via UPS before I can ride again)

Any thoughts?

[Ddan]

Unless you're replacing the basket and/or hub, you just need a 3 or 4mm hex.  If you are replacing the hub or basket, there are a few different versions of tools and the method you described will work, especially if you have an impact gun.  No impact gun and you will want a breaker bar as the nut's on pretty tight.

[Amlethae]

Ah yes, it's full basket,hub, etc, the whole shebang.

I don't have an impact drill, but I do have a 2ft-long torque wrench.  I guess the big question is, will the "in-gear + rear brake" method be strong enough to allow me to torque down everything to spec?

Thanks for the help!!

[DucHead]

Make a holding tool out of clutch plates (assuming you're replacing them).

[Amlethae]

I dont really have the skills for making one out of old plates... not able to weld or machine anything really.  I found that option on some forums but didn't seem like something I could really do.

[Ddan]

Ah yes, it's full basket,hub, etc, the whole shebang.

I don't have an impact drill, but I do have a 2ft-long torque wrench.  I guess the big question is, will the "in-gear + rear brake" method be strong enough to allow me to torque down everything to spec?

Thanks for the help!!

Yes, it will.  It's not recommended that you use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, but YMMV.  Loctite the basket bolts and make sure you get the hub nut to the proper torque.  The assembly looks kinda stupid hanging out of the side of the motor on the push rod when you're half way through your 150 mile test ride.  Trust me on this.    

[Amlethae]

make sure you get the hub nut to the proper torque.  The assembly looks kinda stupid hanging out of the side of the motor on the push rod when you're half way through your 150 mile test ride.  Trust me on this.   

Oh boy... yeah I dont want that.  Anyone have any idea what the torque values on the 1100 are?  I read that the 900 hub nut is around 130ftlbs... I would assume about the same for the 1100 but I dont want to strip it either. 

[He Man]

Since your bike is brand new, if you had a decent impact gun, you could REMOVE it without a clutching holding tool.

just buy this


itll pay for itself, especially since you need one that fits 12T and 48T, im not sure if the number of teeth are the same on the clutch drum, if it is, you can use the stock plates. if not then no go.

since your bike is brand new, im sure it being in gear + rear brake should work. But theres always the likelyhood of it not.

PMed you about the clutch pack.

[Amlethae]

FML & Idiot Question

So I just put the bearing (new) into the EVR pressure plate and because I'm stupid and was doing it wrong, I manage to knock the seal off the bearing.  I put it back in but it ain't perfectly in there, there's a tiny gap in two places between the seal and the inner roller.  The bearing rolls fine but it *could* be a place for clutch dust to get into the bearing.  Here's the idiot question: Am I screwed or do you guys think it's okay? 

[Speeddog]

Replace the bearing.

When you install the new one, push on the outer race only.

FML & Idiot Question

So I just put the bearing (new) into the EVR pressure plate and because I'm stupid and was doing it wrong, I manage to knock the seal off the bearing.  I put it back in but it ain't perfectly in there, there's a tiny gap in two places between the seal and the inner roller.  The bearing rolls fine but it *could* be a place for clutch dust to get into the bearing.  Here's the idiot question: Am I screwed or do you guys think it's okay? 

[mattc7]

put the pressure plate in the oven for a few minutes, the heat causes expansion, so the bearing slides right in, no need for pushing it in.

New bearing is a must. if it fails, you're going to have to replace alot more

[Amlethae]

put the pressure plate in the oven for a few minutes, the heat causes expansion, so the bearing slides right in, no need for pushing it in.

New bearing is a must. if it fails, you're going to have to replace alot more

Dude... why the hell didn't I think of that?  Going to try it right now!   The stock bearing only has 16mi on it... think I could just move it over to the new plate?

[mattc7]

you can, but it's alittle harder to get the stocker out undamaged (heat doesn't do all the work there, but helps)

[Amlethae]

350deg F.... 10min.... popped right out with a simple push of my thumb.  Thanks mattc7!!! 

[Amlethae]

Well finally got the clutch hub nut off with the Motion Pro tool and an impact wrench.

But now the hub won't come out.  Any tricks to this part?