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Author Topic: Monster 696 clip-ons Woodcraft, install details w/ lots of pics!  (Read 53275 times)
Raux
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« Reply #15 on: June 20, 2010, 06:43:13 AM »

I got the zero rise. I expect to be able to go above the triple clamp but if not, I'll be in a true superbike position Wink
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« Reply #16 on: June 20, 2010, 07:42:04 AM »

this all sounds awesome, pics when finished! popcorn
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Veloce-Fino
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« Reply #17 on: June 20, 2010, 08:44:56 AM »

I got the zero rise. I expect to be able to go above the triple clamp but if not, I'll be in a true superbike position Wink

Even though the bike is not finished please install and snap some photos. I really want to see how these would look. I am dead set on Woodcrafts but I cant decide which height to go with. zero rise 1" 2" 3"....

I may not be a bike guru but couldn't you just slide your triple assembly down a bit to fit the clip-ons above the triple if necessary?
« Last Edit: June 20, 2010, 08:49:42 AM by WinSomeLoseNone » Logged

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Raux
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« Reply #18 on: June 20, 2010, 09:50:40 AM »

Even though the bike is not finished please install and snap some photos. I really want to see how these would look. I am dead set on Woodcrafts but I cant decide which height to go with. zero rise 1" 2" 3"....

I may not be a bike guru but couldn't you just slide your triple assembly down a bit to fit the clip-ons above the triple if necessary?

if i dont have enough fork above the top triple with the correct geometry i have to go below the fork. you can't move the triple and the geometry is more important than the clip on position.
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DoWorkSon
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« Reply #19 on: June 20, 2010, 12:50:03 PM »

Even though the bike is not finished please install and snap some photos. I really want to see how these would look. I am dead set on Woodcrafts but I cant decide which height to go with. zero rise 1" 2" 3"....

I may not be a bike guru but couldn't you just slide your triple assembly down a bit to fit the clip-ons above the triple if necessary?

Prior to doing fork swap, I had 2" rise with my clipons...

This still felt pretty aggressive, but comfortable(me being 6"). I only noticed discomfort while riding down steep mountains from constantly being pushed onto bars. I went with the slightly highr 2.5" rise just for a tad bit more comfortable position....

Here is a top pic with the 2" rise



and a side pic



« Last Edit: June 20, 2010, 04:16:29 PM by DoWorkSon » Logged

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« Reply #20 on: June 20, 2010, 01:59:54 PM »


hopefully my set will be here early this week and I'll measure them for you, if no one has answered before.

Great thanks. 
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Veloce-Fino
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« Reply #21 on: June 20, 2010, 02:41:32 PM »

Prior to doing fork swap, I had 2" rise with my clipons...

This still felt pretty aggressive, but comfortable(me being 6"). I only noticed discomfort while riding down steep mountains from constantly being pushed onto bars. I went with the slightly highr 2.5" rise just for a tad bit more comfortable position....


Two questions,
Do the bars still fit into the intakes on the tank maximizing your turning radius (with which height bar)? If not how much radius did you lose?

Compared to stock mounting position above the stock headlight about how much lower is your gauge pod. I am worried that if I only bump the headlight out as required and not lower it how goofy will the gauge pod look?

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DoWorkSon
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« Reply #22 on: June 20, 2010, 04:20:29 PM »

Two questions,
Do the bars still fit into the intakes on the tank maximizing your turning radius (with which height bar)? If not how much radius did you lose?

Compared to stock mounting position above the stock headlight about how much lower is your gauge pod. I am worried that if I only bump the headlight out as required and not lower it how goofy will the gauge pod look?



1. Yes, they allowed complete left and right turning radius with those on....

2. The gauge is mounted about where it was mounted stock... Maybe a tad bit lower... I am not really sure though, It's been awhile but not much lower....

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« Reply #23 on: June 20, 2010, 04:52:38 PM »

1. Yes, they allowed complete left and right turning radius with those on....

2. The gauge is mounted about where it was mounted stock... Maybe a tad bit lower... I am not really sure though, It's been awhile but not much lower....



Thanks Broseph,

I'm going to be using sort of a double L bracket to move the headlight assembly both down and out.

___
      \
        \____

Something like this. The two rubber grommets for the top of the headlight mount will attach to the lower part and the top will mount underneath the triple assembly. The bottom will use the same bracket but on it's side.

Hopefully if I use 4 identical brackets the assembly will be lowered and spaced out identically. This is probably going to be the most frustrating part of the clipon/triple install.
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« Reply #24 on: June 20, 2010, 06:10:42 PM »

Oh another thing...

Dont forget that you need the spacers for your controls and will probably need new adjustable levers...

With the new bars, the controls/resevoirs will not align with the bars and are too close.... With the brembo levers, they are too far away once you have the spacers.
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« Reply #25 on: June 20, 2010, 06:15:25 PM »

Oh another thing...

Dont forget that you need the spacers for your controls and will probably need new adjustable levers...

With the new bars, the controls/resevoirs will not align with the bars and are too close.... With the brembo levers, they are too far away once you have the spacers.

huh? The reservoirs are integrated with the controls, I'm not sure what you mean?

*I'm aware of the need for spacers. but why the need for levers?
« Last Edit: June 20, 2010, 06:27:26 PM by WinSomeLoseNone » Logged

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DoWorkSon
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« Reply #26 on: June 20, 2010, 07:17:33 PM »

huh? The reservoirs are integrated with the controls, I'm not sure what you mean?

*I'm aware of the need for spacers. but why the need for levers?

Correct, the controls are integrated, however, the levers will be pushed out further away from the bars due to placing the spacers on there...

Since the stock levers are not adjustable, they were pushed way way to far out for my hands to reach them comfortably or even be able to barely work them so I had to buy some adjustable ones that replace the stock ones....

The reservoirs stay put, but the levers remove and new ones go in it's place. With the adjustables I was then able to adjust them closer to the grips so I could use them.

I didnt think I would need them either, until I got everything on there and realized I couldn't reach my controls.... Just a heads up that you "might" need them.
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« Reply #27 on: June 21, 2010, 01:30:05 AM »

The levers will be further from the bar the distance of the spacer.  Will you need adjustable levers?  Depends on the size of your hands.
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« Reply #28 on: June 22, 2010, 12:41:27 AM »

I am dead set on Woodcrafts but I cant decide which height to go with. zero rise 1" 2" 3"....
Me? I'd go the 3"   (you can always clamp em further down the fork legs if you want lower....).

..... you can't move the triple and the geometry is more important than the clip on position.
Some sound advice there IMHO.  You cant move the top triple... that is true but you could move the forks higher through the triple(s) so that you had some fork leg to clamp onto above the top triple.  However, as Raux correctly says that would change the geometry and I agree, I wouldnt do that just for a convenient place to mount clipons.

Will you need adjustable levers?
Need is so subjective  Evil   If you've got gorilla paws then maybe you wont need..... but regardless they're are nice to have..... sooooo many to choose from.....  Cool

Spacers can be hard to find but I see Jeff has has em in stock once again >> http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/ADAP/Clutch-Brakes/ADAP.html
« Last Edit: June 22, 2010, 12:58:47 AM by ungeheuer » Logged

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Raux
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« Reply #29 on: June 22, 2010, 01:25:54 AM »

with SBK forks you can't slide the clipons down too far because they taper from 53 to 52 or 51 (haven't measured it yet) then back to 53.
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