How to fix a bad paint job

[CETME]

How do you really fix a bad repaint?

For example, you buy a bike or a car. You know it's been repainted, but they did a piss poor job of it To add insult to injury, they didn't even repainted it the same color. What can you really do to fix that? do you have to sand off the "new" paint down to the bare metal (what if it's plastic)? or just enough to break through to the old paint?

Thanks for the help!

[The Bearded Duc]

PM ducpainter (a.k.a. humorless dp) he should know. Or maybe he'll chime in here soon.

[ducpainter]

This would be better in the DIY paint thread just for housekeeping purposes.

Mind if I merge it in and answer there?

[jc.cyberdemon]

if its just the wrong color and looks like shit than you can just wet sand it with 400 grit and shoot over that. Im not sure of your skill level but most people are better off taking it to a good body shop and get it done there. if your gonna do it yourself i wouldn't suggest spray can, you really want a good base coat clear coat process. that usually requires a source of good clean and dry air, hvlp paint gun, the paint itself and also clear, you will need activator for the clear and sometimes reducer as well depending on the clear you use, im most cases you will also need reducer for the paint. it takes a bit of practice to get it where the clear lays nice and flat, usually you will have to wet sand it with 1,000 grit then 2,000 grit wet and then buff with a variable speed buffer. there are many steps involved in getting a nice looking paint job and can cost a good chunk of cash. there are numerous threads on the forums here and if you read all the post of every thread that will give you a good idea of what you gotta do....

[jc.cyberdemon]

or just use single stage...... :

[ducpainter]

if its just the wrong color and looks like shit than you can just wet sand it with 400 grit and shoot over that. Im not sure of your skill level but most people are better off taking it to a good body shop and get it done there. if your gonna do it yourself i wouldn't suggest spray can, you really want a good base coat clear coat process. that usually requires a source of good clean and dry air, hvlp paint gun, the paint itself and also clear, you will need activator for the clear and sometimes reducer as well depending on the clear you use, im most cases you will also need reducer for the paint. it takes a bit of practice to get it where the clear lays nice and flat, usually you will have to wet sand it with 1,000 grit then 2,000 grit wet and then buff with a variable speed buffer. there are many steps involved in getting a nice looking paint job and can cost a good chunk of cash. there are numerous threads on the forums here and if you read all the post of every thread that will give you a good idea of what you gotta do....

Is your enter key broken? 

[duccarlos]

I would take it to a pro for a second opinion. DP for one. I usually ask my brother.

[ducpainter]

I would take it to a pro for a second opinion. DP for one. I usually ask my brother.

jccy is a pro.

This place is lousy with painters.

[jc.cyberdemon]

jccy is a pro.

This place is lousy with painters.

im not a pro i just get paid good money to do it.

[CETME]

Thanks for the answers so far, and yes, go ahead and merge it in there if it makes it easier. 

[ducpainter]

Thanks for the answers so far, and yes, go ahead and merge it in there if it makes it easier. 

jccyberdemons answer is pretty much what I would say.

Buying materials and equipment far exceeds the cost of having a shop do it right...

and their results will be better if you don't have a booth.

[CETME]

I suppose the question is: If a car/bike has been repainted, do you sand down to the first layer of paint, or do you have to start completely over and sand down to bare metal/paint

[ducpainter]

I suppose the question is: If a car/bike has been repainted, do you sand down to the first layer of paint, or do you have to start completely over and sand down to bare metal/paint

Just sand off as much as possible to ensure the prep was sufficient. I mean, if you start sanding and you sand through to the old paint and the edge won't 'feather' then it would be a good idea to strip, or block all of it off.

If you start blocking and you get a nice smooth feather edge then just finish the sanding process, maybe priming...but I can't tell you without seeing it...I probably would... and seal and paint. Don't skip the sealer on a re-refinish even if you prime.

sorry for the run on sentence...