M1100 progress pics ** Update # 1

[Jimmy Ducati]

Looks AOK to me, but what do I know?

[ungeheuer]

DAM IT, Ungeheuer; you have my head spinning from reading and trying to comprehend all the threads about tuning the M1100.  I really have no desire to eliminate the stock air box (remember I'm running the DP "race" kit with free flow air filter, ECU & Termi slip ons) and the Wasp works system "only" adds 2-4 PHP (negligible IMO).  From what I gather in all the threads you have going or participated in, I could just order the Rexxer unit and improve ride-ability?   I can order it preloaded to eliminate the O2 sensors, fatten up the low to mid fueling, raise the rev limit?  Sounds like that would give me better ride-ability in the low-mid range while adding a little more top performance because of the increased rev limit.  Plus from what I understand, I could read error codes stored in the ECU and also reset the service reminder?

2hp? WASP are showing figures of +4hp for their kit and +0hp for Termi cans....  .  Maybe have a yack with DucNaked he's running a setup almost identical to yours - he Rexxered away the stock o2s/closed loop to "fatten up" the low end and gain an extra 1000rpm at the top end.

[dennisd]

2hp? WASP are showing figures of +4hp for their kit and +0hp for Termi cans....  .  Maybe have a yack with DucNaked he's running a setup almost identical to yours - he Rexxered away the stock o2s/closed loop to "fatten up" the low end and gain an extra 1000rpm at the top end.

OK, thanks.  I'll PM DucNaked (unless he chimes in here).  But what about the ability to read error codes and reset the maintenance reminder?

[DucNaked]

OK, thanks.  I'll PM DucNaked (unless he chimes in here).  But what about the ability to read error codes and reset the maintenance reminder?

Yes, you can read and reset error codes and the service light.

I'm running basicaly the same setup as you except I've got  stock cored cans until my new exhaust arrives. I've put about 150 miles on the flash, so far so good. Removing the closed loop portion of the map has made the bike more enjoyable to ride. And I haven't hit the rev limiter yet, which I used to.

I also want to say that I'm running a full system map created for Zards and it's performing great with the stock components. I'm going to pull the plugs in a week or so to see how they look. But the bike is running great I can't imagine they will look bad.

[dennisd]

Yes, you can read and reset error codes and the service light.

I'm running basicaly the same setup as you except I've got  stock cored cans until my new exhaust arrives. I've put about 150 miles on the flash, so far so good. Removing the closed loop portion of the map has made the bike more enjoyable to ride. And I haven't hit the rev limiter yet, which I used to.

I also want to say that I'm running a full system map created for Zards and it's performing great with the stock components. I'm going to pull the plugs in a week or so to see how they look. But the bike is running great I can't imagine they will look bad.

Thanks for the input.  So just removing the closed loop setup and richening up the bottom-mid range got rid of the lurching below 3500 RPM?  Did you also get better throttle response below 3500 RPM?  Yea, I'd like the extra 1000 RPM headroom for the first few gears.

I can't imagine that the map for the Zards is rich enough that it would foul the plugs.  The good thing about it is, even if it is a little rich now, it won't hurt anything and just imagine how much better it's going to run with the Zards.

[dennisd]

Next project??

I've improved the rear suspension tremendously by replacing the Sachs with the Ohlins.  The Showa forks seem pretty good now that I've got them adjusted to my weight but I'm wondering if re-valving them would be worth the trouble/expense.  Anyone done any re-valving to their Showa forks on the M1100?

And BTW, you don't have to tell me I should have gotten an "S" model.

[DucNaked]

Thanks for the input.  So just removing the closed loop setup and richening up the bottom-mid range got rid of the lurching below 3500 RPM?  Did you also get better throttle response below 3500 RPM?  Yea, I'd like the extra 1000 RPM headroom for the first few gears.

I can't imagine that the map for the Zards is rich enough that it would foul the plugs.  The good thing about it is, even if it is a little rich now, it won't hurt anything and just imagine how much better it's going to run with the Zards.

Ya, eliminating the O2 ( which eliminates the closed loop ) smoothed things out down low. Bike excelerates in a more linear fashion now.

I siad the map was created for a Zard full system. I didn't say I was getting a Zard system.   

[dennisd]

Ya, eliminating the O2 ( which eliminates the closed loop ) smoothed things out down low. Bike excelerates in a more linear fashion now.

I siad the map was created for a Zard full system. I didn't say I was getting a Zard system.   

So you are going to go with...

[Mojo S2R]

Like what you've done.  Bike looks good.  I think the black on the headlight should be painted silver to match the fairing/tank.  But most obvious, I think you should powder-coat that yellow spring to red, black, or silver.

As for re-valving the front suspension it depends on your weight.  I don't know about on the new monsters but the previous models came from the factory setup for 160 pound riders and is definitely IMO a mandatory first mod for most western riders.

[ungeheuer]

Western riders?  Isnt Italy in the Western hemisphere anymore??! 

[dennisd]

Like what you've done.  Bike looks good.  I think the black on the headlight should be painted silver to match the fairing/tank.  But most obvious, I think you should powder-coat that yellow spring to red, black, or silver.

As for re-valving the front suspension it depends on your weight.  I don't know about on the new monsters but the previous models came from the factory setup for 160 pound riders and is definitely IMO a mandatory first mod for most western riders.

I see what you are saying but I prefer to leave it black to tie it in with the black lower triple and the fork lowers.  Only thing I thought of is to get one in CF to match the rest but then again I don't want to go overboard with CF either.  I AM thinking about taking the shock back off and going with black on the spring but I'd probably just use urethane paint.

I'm around 175 to 180 lbs so I don't think I need to respring the forks; I don't seem to have an excessive amount of fork dive under hard braking; I am just wondering if I could get the forks more compliant.  Some of the pavement I ride is a little rough so I would like to make sure I'm keeping good tire to pavement contact.  I'll probably just play with the fork settings a little more.  Going from the Sachs shock to the Ohlins did wonders at the rear but I don't think the Showa forks are THAT far off making it necessary to change to the Ohlins forks.

[live2ride]

your oil looks low.  oddly, that was the first thing i noticed.  haha

looks good

must quote mitt....very nice for a m1100

[dennisd]

your oil looks low.  oddly, that was the first thing i noticed.  haha

Not sure how you come to that conclusion.  The oil level is actually a little overfull.  It's just not enough to make it worth trying to get any out.  When the bike is sitting level on the ground, the level is just slightly over the upper mark.   And with the bike on the rear stand like in the pics the sight glass is completely full.

BTW, thanks for all the comments everyone.  Keep the suggestions comming; I really want your input.

[Mojo S2R]

Western riders?  Isnt Italy in the Western hemisphere anymore??! 

Okay, us American FatAsses.     At least my 215 lb fatass.

[Mojo S2R]

<snip> I don't want to go overboard with CF either. <snip>

   Impossible.  You can never have enough CF.