Balls. Clipon Install: Fail

[Howie]

I'm curious about this as well. Wouldn't this really mess with the geometry?

It would certainly have a major effect, greatly quickening steering.

[Staggerlee]

It would certainly have a major effect, greatly quickening steering.

No joke.  The thing turns-in like it's going out of style.  Unfortunately, It's also twitchy as shit; me no likey.

[Veloce-Fino]

It would certainly have a major effect, greatly quickening steering.

Not always a good thing....

Might necessitate a steering damper.

[suzyj]

It depends.  In my case, my fork legs are longer than stock (from a 998) so the triple isn't dropped very far.  When I also take into account less nosedive on account of stiffer fork springs and better damping, it's actually more stable.  Still drops into corners nicely, but no sign of headshake.

Also of importance is what you've done at the back.  If you've raised the back substantially, then lowering the front is an additional change to geometry.  If your rear is at stock height though (or lower), you can tolerate some drop at the front without upsetting the geometry.

[corey]

An inch of change in your rake is quite a bit of change. On my 999 forks, there are lines at the top for dropping/raising the forks evenly, and the largest increment (all of them together total) is about an inch... so you are looking at probably some pretty quick steering, and a tank slapper in the near future if you're unlucky...

My 999 forks required me to raise them about a half inch in comparison to where my stockers were. It made a large difference in the bikes handling and steering, but is still reasonable and safe. I literally HAD to do it because of the tapering and widening of different sections of the fork body. You'd probably be okay, but if you can get spacers and go that route, I would.

Spacers are a common thing on modified bikes. I've got some on my calipers for christ sake. I think you'll be okay on your handle bars. Make sure you torque everything down evenly, and use some kind of anti sieze on the threads.

[xcaptainxbloodx]

2 things I refused to do on my front end; move the forks through the triple to mount clip ons and shim the triple.

I dont think its dangerous. both are do-able, but a hack way of going about it. suspension and controls are two of the most important conditions of any bike and to go futzing around with them in order to make things fit ok just isnt right. take the time to find the RIGHT parts and then mount them appropriately.

the only exception would be like if you do a fork swap and get something longer thats already poking out and you can fudge that a little extra (3/4" say) thats fine, and sometimes will make the bike handle better.

[stopintime]

Just a few very rough numbers to clarify.....

If the front is lowered or the rear is raised.....
20mm changes the rake about 1 degree.
.... which is significant. Maybe not radical though.

My FHE/opinion is that Monsters (not 696/1100) benefits from such a geometry change.

[ducpainter]

Just a few very rough numbers to clarify.....

If the front is lowered or the rear is raised.....
20mm changes the rake about 1 degree.
.... which is significant. Maybe not radical though.

My FHE/opinion is that Monsters (not 696/1100) benefits from such a geometry change.

+1

[Staggerlee]

+1

Interesting.  I think I saw somewhere in the archives that you've also cranked up your rear ride height a bit; still have it configured that way?

[BlackKat]

motowheels has an in house brand of clip on with a removable riser plate specific to mounting on TOP of your triple. The clamp is only 19mm tall. I've had back issues from years of soccer and started with the riser plate in, but as I got used to my bike, I took it out and with them being mounted up top, I'm very comfy!

I have them on a 99 750. I'll throw a pic up tonight when I get in from work.

[xcaptainxbloodx]

Just a few very rough numbers to clarify.....

If the front is lowered or the rear is raised.....
20mm changes the rake about 1 degree.
.... which is significant. Maybe not radical though.

My FHE/opinion is that Monsters (not 696/1100) benefits from such a geometry change.

benefits in what way? how do you "measure" that benefit? a track day before and after or just doing it in the garage and going for a ride (placebo affect?)?  are you using a damper with this set up? what did you go through to discover this upgrade?

pardon the questions but its a curious set up.

[stopintime]

benefits in what way? how do you "measure" that benefit? a track day before and after or just doing it in the garage and going for a ride (placebo affect?)?  are you using a damper with this set up? what did you go through to discover this upgrade?

pardon the questions but its a curious set up.

Raising rear and/or lowering front decreases front wheel trail, which is a deciding factor for stability. More trail means greater stability, but also makes bikes harder to turn. It's highly individual which way we should choose to go.

I've done 10mm front and about the same rear. (= ~ 1 degree less rake)(still 23 degrees left)
Enough to have a much sharper riding experience.

My suspension is working very well, so I have no need for a damper.
If I had more power, maybe I'd get one to control an airborne front.
Dampers are sometimes used to cover lacking suspension - bad idea.

[Latinbalar]

I mounted my vortex over the clamp and pushed shocks up and I am still here to tell the tale.  I feel it had a positive effect and the front feels more planted and secure with more weight over it. Mind you I don't do track days and this is based entirely on my experience of street riding for 5+ years.

[xcaptainxbloodx]

My suspension is working very well, so I have no need for a damper.
If I had more power, maybe I'd get one to control an airborne front.
Dampers are sometimes used to cover lacking suspension - bad idea.

I dont know man, suspension and dampers arent really as connected as many believe. I see a lot of people come into the shop wanting to buy and install dampers on stock (shit), suspension thinking it an upgrade. like you say, a cover up. but i dont think a good, working suspension is not going to do the job of a damper. the cover up works both ways.

pushing your forks through to decrease trail can make your suspension dangerously twitchy (sharper) if you dont know what you are doing. decreasing trail in conjunction with with a damper would provide that sharper turn in but mellow out the twitch and stop the loathsome tankslapper.

[BlackKat]

Currently with the spacers out....



here they were when I had the spacer...





I too am here to say, no issues what so ever. its not twitchy. the bike handles quite well.

While the service is less than perfect from motowheels, if you talk to Ed, he seems to be the glimmering light there.