clear things up for me

[jc.cyberdemon]

ok i know lots have been said about valve adjustments but i still dont understand somethings. when i get to tdc on the horizontal i can then remove the belts, and am safe to turn the horizontal cam, now after doing the adjustments and rechecking on the horizontal am i safe to turn to tdc on the vertical to check those? if so when im done do i just line up all the marks on the cams and just stick the belt back on?

[ducpainter]

Pretty much.

Don't forget to line up the mark on the lower pulley before you reinstall the belts.

[jc.cyberdemon]

so after i move to tdc on the vertical and adjust those i then move it back to the tdc horizontal and install the belts correct?

[ducpainter]

so after i move to tdc on the vertical and adjust those i then move it back to the tdc horizontal and install the belts correct?

I believe when the horizontal cyl is at tdc the layshaft mark lines up.

I never look at the other side when I go to put belts on.

I use the marks on the flywheel for tdc only so the valves don't disappear into the cylinder when the shims are off.

[jc.cyberdemon]

ok thanks i think i got it, gonna attempt to get on it this weekend, im done riding for the season so im just gonna take my time.

[ducpainter]

ok thanks i think i got it, gonna attempt to get on it this weekend, im done riding for the season so im just gonna take my time.

If you run into trouble you know where I am.

We're not that far away from each other.

[jc.cyberdemon]

if started in on it today, my measurements to start with are intake= openers -.0015 closers-.0015, exhaust =.0025 closer=-.0015,
the closer look good and the cam spins freeley with both rocker arms to the side. so it looks like im just gonna sand down the openers and
hope i measured right, ive checked about 30 times before i started sanding. i started sanding the first shim and am now at .003 on the opener
im kinda surprised at how long it takes to sand of a thousandth. i tried using 1000 grit but ended up going with 400 then polishing it up with 1000.

i have another question though, after i get done with the horizontal and go to the vertical tdc does it matter what position the vertical cam is in?
i was thinking of just throwing the belt back on and moving everything to the vertical tdc position. what should i be shooting for on the tolerances?  

[ducpainter]

if started in on it today, my measurements to start with are intake= openers -.0015 closers-.0015, exhaust =.0025 closer=-.0015,
the closer look good and the cam spins freeley with both rocker arms to the side. so it looks like im just gonna sand down the openers and
hope i measured right, ive checked about 30 times before i started sanding. i started sanding the first shim and am now at .003 on the opener
im kinda surprised at how long it takes to sand of a thousandth. i tried using 1000 grit but ended up going with 400 then polishing it up with 1000.

i have another question though, after i get done with the horizontal and go to the vertical tdc does it matter what position the vertical cam is in?
i was thinking of just throwing the belt back on and moving everything to the vertical tdc position. what should i be shooting for on the tolerances?  

First of all...

drop down to 220...I want you to live long enough to finish, and the surface doesn't have to be that fine. Sand in a figure 8 or rotate the shim and sand straight line. Either will keep the shim flat and parallel to the surface that contacts the stem.

Intake openers should be .004"... Exhaust should be .005". Ideal for the closers would be .000 or less than the .0015 you are measuring.

You can do it that way if you want. It really doesn't matter, and since the horizontal belt goes on first it won't be any extra labor.

Are you not replacing belts?

[jc.cyberdemon]

yeah im replacing them but haven't ordered them yet, i wont be riding till next spring anyways.

[jc.cyberdemon]

well here is an update...I got kind of lucky cause after 12,000+ miles all the closer were still in spec and i had no binding on the cams.
all the openers needed to be sanded. on all valves the openers were at around .0015 to .002 so now ive got them at .004 on the intake and .005
on exhaust.I noticed after i put the clips back on the opener gap closed up a bit so i put a little tension on the cam and got it to loosen up and had
a nice wiggle. i rechecked them and found they needed a bit more sanding. i got everything back together(seemed like the hardest part of the job)
nervously pushed the ignition button and nothing happened! well of course there is the kill switch, but that also had no effect. then i remembered that i
was still in top gear and my bike wont start unless it is neutral . after all the stupidity passed it fired right up! never sounded better ive only taken it
for a quick spin but here is what ive noticed: smoother power delivery, smoother engine breaking, possible smoother acceleration, smoother sound. overall it
feels like a new bike. maybe just a mental thing but thats what i think. Overall it wasnt a huge project and could have done it in 2 hours if i did it in one stretch.
of course not having to mess with the closers saved me time. Thanks for the help dp  

[ducpainter]

well here is an update...I got kind of lucky cause after 12,000+ miles all the closer were still in spec and i had no binding on the cams.
all the openers needed to be sanded. on all valves the openers were at around .0015 to .002 so now ive got them at .004 on the intake and .005
on exhaust.I noticed after i put the clips back on the opener gap closed up a bit so i put a little tension on the cam and got it to loosen up and had
a nice wiggle. i rechecked them and found they needed a bit more sanding. i got everything back together(seemed like the hardest part of the job)
nervously pushed the ignition button and nothing happened! well of course there is the kill switch, but that also had no effect. then i remembered that i
was still in top gear and my bike wont start unless it is neutral . after all the stupidity passed it fired right up! never sounded better ive only taken it
for a quick spin but here is what ive noticed: smoother power delivery, smoother engine breaking, possible smoother acceleration, smoother sound. overall it
feels like a new bike. maybe just a mental thing but thats what i think. Overall it wasnt a huge project and could have done it in 2 hours if i did it in one stretch.
of course not having to mess with the closers saved me time. Thanks for the help dp  

You bet...

the clips do that...

next time take the time to tighten up the closers.

It adds to the time and cost, but you'd be amazed the difference it makes.

[jc.cyberdemon]

i know the closers were under .001 so i didnt think i needed to close them up any.
but either way it seems like i did it right because of the effects it had on overall feel
of the bike, does my description sound right? i cant imagine that it could of made that
much of a difference.oh yeah i ordered the belt today and will put them on a soon as they
get here. i didnt really want to put to much stress on the the old belts so i didnt really get to
fully test it.

[ducpainter]

Your description is perfet, but in your OP you mentioned .0015 as a closer clearance.

Like I said, ideally it will be .000 with no binding, but yours are probably better than many techs take the time to achieve.

[jc.cyberdemon]

the .0015 measurement came from before i sanded the openers that were also less than .0015 so i couldnt really measure them until i sanded the openers...

[ducpainter]

the .0015 measurement came from before i sanded the openers that were also less than .0015 so i couldnt really measure them until i sanded the openers...

For some reason that always changes too.

Strange ducks these Ducs.