light engine building

[xcaptainxbloodx]

im starting to put together plans for the winter mods and im worried I may be making a big mistake.

I definetly plan on doing a TPO intake kit, PCIII and dyno tune.

Im thinking about throwing a lightend flywheel into the mix as the case covers will be removed for PC anyway.

my question is;  I do most riding  (even spirited riding) betweek 3-6k. This leads me to believe I should look at the Beast (not the beast R) and that a lightweight flywheel is more of an added bonus than anything else. But im concerned that with the lightend flywheel and 14t front sprocket it will be so easy to spin up rpms that I may benefit more from the beast R. basically, am I building this bike for too much bottom end?

the bike is an S2R800, the mods that affect the bikes ability to make power are the electraeon quick throttle, dropped tooth front cog and arrow exhaust (full system).

also, anyone with advice on buying vs machining on the flywheel?

[xcaptainxbloodx]

ruling out lightend flywheel now.

think im going with the beast R  to give me the peak rpm gains im missing out on.

unless anyone can convince me otherwise.

[ducatiz]

i put a lightened flywheel on my SS and the difference is noticeable -- with the FCRs, it wheelies in 2nd gear.  very quick acceleration, engine spins up faster than the original flywheel.

[junior varsity]

i put a lightened flywheel on my SS and the difference is noticeable -- with the FCRs, it wheelies in 2nd gear.  very quick acceleration, engine spins up faster than the original flywheel.

+1 experience on my M900. Was a great addition (Nichols Flywheel with 2 jamb nuts). Very happy with motor after doing lightweight clutch (99 had steel basket, lots of weight to lose) and flywheel. i have lightened primary set to put in next to turn it up to 11.

[greenmonster]

+1 on lighter fw, engine feels livelier.

[xcaptainxbloodx]

my only reason for ditching the FW idea is engine life. racing buddies telling me im going to eat clutches.


I figure theyre  thinking more along the lines of crazy race flywheels than where my heads at. anyone have a refferal for built lightend flywheels or shops with good reps for machining down my stock one?

[ducatiz]

http://motorcycle.nicholsmfg.com/

I could see you burning out clutches faster, but it will depend on how good you are at adapting to the engine's new performance curve. 

My neighbor bought a 911 GT a few years ago and burned the clutch out within a month.  Of course, he is a dumbass and that was his first non-automatic tranny car. 

[mattc7]

For street riding, around 1.5 - 2 lbs is as light as needed.

keep away from aluminum, as they can break splines easily, and occasionally have starting trouble when batteries aren't kept at full power.

Ducshop, or Ben Fox both lighten flys.  I believe AMS does their own as well.  I'm sure other sponsors do to.

I like the nichols flywheels on race builds, but on a street bike, I think it's often too light.

[greenmonster]

racing buddies telling me im going to eat clutches.

Dunno about wet clutches but simply not true on dry.
Never heard of lw fw eating clutches.

keep away from aluminum, as they can break splines easily, and occasionally have starting trouble when batteries aren't kept at full power.

This is the only time I`ve heard of that:
http://www.bikeboy.org/flywheelducati.html
Starting issues due to low inertia, not material.

[junior varsity]

No spline problems on the Nichols, the old DP ones had some issues.


Jeff @ AMS prefers lightened crank over lightened flywheel on full builds

[mattc7]

This is the only time I`ve heard of that:
http://www.bikeboy.org/flywheelducati.html
Starting issues due to low inertia, not material.

The aluminum ones are lighter, typically. I haven't seen an alu FW that was meaty enough to provide easy starting on low battery.  I meant to say, when you go below the 1.5 LB mark, it can become a problem.   I've seen the nichols, combined with a low battery, crank over, spark, and since blow a starter motor from the piston not passing TDC after the spark, but stopping and kicking back. I've also seen this on a stock flywheel turned down to nichols weight

I've also seen a nichols with no splines at all, the old DP too.  It's not a common issue, and having not done the install, I cannot say they were properly torqued which could lead to extra vibrations, and assistance with these issues. But i have seen it. 

the new DP is a 2 lb hardened steel option, which I do like. otherwise, turning the stock down is just as nice.

[Porsche Monkey]

Hmmmm. I have access to a lathe, balancing would be an issue though.  Hmmmm.

[Monsterlover]

^

Don't even worry about it.

I took a stock M900 FW and weighed it.  4.5 pounds.  I turned it down to 2 and could have gone a lot more.

If it's out of balance, there's no way to tell.  I also punched a bunch of holes in my clutch basket and primary gear (on a bridgeport, all precision like ) and the bike spins up like nothing.

The OP is over thinking things.

I had a 2000 M900ie with the flywheel, cut air box, pipes and a power commander.  With clipons (remember they get more weight over the front) it would wheely in 2nd gear with throttle only (14/41 gearing)

You won't eat clutches, or wear out your engine.  Aluminum flywheels don't break splines unless they're defective.

Just get it and you'll love it.  Your bike will still be easy to ride, it's not like the aluminum flywheel makes it like riding a 2stroke. . .

[junior varsity]

You won't eat clutches, or wear out your engine.  Aluminum flywheels don't break splines unless they're defective.

Just get it and you'll love it.  Your bike will still be easy to ride, it's not like the aluminum flywheel makes it like riding a 2stroke. . .

+1

They run great - makes it behave much like a current gen bike, not like an un-street-able racebike

[greenmonster]

& if any regrets,easily reversed & sold part.
Try It!