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Author Topic: Trailtech Vapor Complete Rolling Write-Up  (Read 52822 times)
Artful
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« Reply #15 on: December 09, 2010, 11:51:36 AM »

I like this.

What does the unit go for?

~$180 for the gauge and the indicator light housing.
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« Reply #16 on: December 27, 2010, 07:32:23 AM »

Added Update: ECU Removal
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« Reply #17 on: December 30, 2010, 07:11:55 AM »

Added Update: Additional Electrical Parts to Order
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« Reply #18 on: December 30, 2010, 10:59:31 AM »

Shipped ECU Fedex ground on 12/24, got ECU back flashed on 12/30. Now to find a VDSTS cable and get this sucker installed...
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Yup, it's supposed to sound like that....


« Reply #19 on: December 30, 2010, 11:04:53 AM »

why do you need a VDSTS?
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« Reply #20 on: December 30, 2010, 11:10:31 AM »

why do you need a VDSTS?

When they send you your ECU back it has a default TPS (throttle position sensor) value. In order to get it running right you need to reset your TPS value to whatever the sensor is reading on YOUR bike. Think of it as zeroing a scale. I found someone locally to borrow one from, waiting to hear back on when I can pick it up.
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« Reply #21 on: December 30, 2010, 11:23:48 AM »

I swear this gauge thing has become a bigger project than I ever expected.  Good thing the forum and you exist to answer all my novice questions. 
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« Reply #22 on: December 30, 2010, 11:37:59 AM »

I've been researching it for a few months, there's a fair amount involved. That's why we do these projects over the winter though Cheesy
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« Reply #23 on: January 03, 2011, 06:55:06 AM »

Update 1-3-2011

ECU Reinstall

Had time this weekend to reinstall the ECU and mock-up the custom fairing to use with the TrailTech and dual headlights. First, the ECU reintall.

First, here's the ECU upon its return. You'll notice the RACE sticker, which according to urban legend immediately means the bike makes 15 more hp and the only exhaust from now on will be rainbow farts. I'm a realist however, I don't expect much change.



First is to reinstall the two bolts that hold down the ECU, taking special care to reinstall the ground strap on the left hand bolt.



Once they are both attached, time to reattach the ECU wire bundles. First seat them into place.



Then rotate the hold down arms into place.



Until they lock into place.



Do the same on the other connector.



Lastly reinstall the negative power lead.



Go ahead and lower the tank and reinstall the seat, the physical reinstall is finished. Now it is time to take care of the programming issues you will have with a freshly flashed ECU. First is setting the position of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). After that, fuel trim should be adjusted.

TPS Reset

To do both of these procedures you have three options:
1. Buy a VDSTS cable from www.technoresearch.com for your specific ECU
2. Take the bike to the dealer and pay them to do it (the bike is safe to ride, these procedures are for tuning purposes)
3. Be a cheap bastard and borrow one from a generous friend.

I obviously went with option 3. bergdoerfer was kind enough to let me borrow his cable (thanks!).

The TPS reset procedure is incredibly simple. First we have to get the bike hooked up. Find the ECU data harness that comes off the left side ECU connector. Looks a little something like this.



Remove the plastic cap so you can get to the connector



Hook up the power leads on the cable using the alligator clips



And then attach the data cable



Turn on your ignition and you're set to start adjusting.

Launch the software and click the gauges icon to connect to the ECU. You should see the TPS position change from 0 to whatever your TPS is currently reading, in my case 4.2



Now click the Active settings icon, the blue screwdriver.



Click the TPS tab



Click the blue screwdriver, you will get a warning saying "Hey dummy you're about to screw with something that will affect engine operation, sure you want to do this?", We do, so click OK to proceed. You will get a brief countdown and then this dialog box.



Turn the ignition off for at LEAST 13 seconds (I counted slow to 30 just for safety's sake) and turn it back on. Upon it powering back up, you should get this:



Voila, your TPS is reset, now on to fuel trim. For this one you're going to have to get the bike to operating temp. So you know what that means. Start it up, then



Once it gets around 170 You can begin. Click the Fuel Trim tab.

Fuel Trim



The left hand side is your fuel trimmer. Click the Trimmer button, you will get a message at the bottom saying that the engine must be at operating temp, it is not an error, just a warning. Then use the arrows to raise and lower fuel trim.



The precise method is to use a gas analyzer positioned on the tailpipe to get a CO reading of 4-6%. The po boy method is to use your ears and listen to the motor. Starting from 0, raise the value three steps at a time. You should hear the idle speed increase SLIGHTLY. This is half science and half voodoo, not gonna lie. Keep increasing the value in two or three step increments until the idle starts slowing down instead of speeding up. Once that happens back off two steps and click Save. This method will result in a slightly rich condition, which frankly I prefer over lean.

You're set, you have a mostly tuned ECU and can go for a test ride.

ECU Flash Impressions

I'm a realist. I know that a little electrical voodoo isn't going to turn a tame 695 into a fire-breathing beast with a few mouseclicks. With that said, I'm truly impressed with the improvement. Not the incredible amount of power it adds (my ass dyno isn't finely tuned enough to tell you if I gained a few hp or not) but instead how much it improved the low end power delivery. "Throttle response" is a term I usually associate with jagoffs self-justifying spending stupid money on a worthless mod. But in this case, I'm that jagoff. Starting from a stop and low speed cornering are butter smooth compared to the jerkiness of the stock programming. Delivery is more linear, and once the roads aren't 15* it just might end up I have a few more horses. Overall VERY impressed with Houston Superbikes' work and would recommend spending the $250 to anyone. There are always the YMMV warnings, but my transaction was incredibly smooth and I'm very happy with the final result.

And most importantly after the flash, the bike started up without the gauges attached... Which leads to the next part of the write-up, removing the stock gauges and preparing to install the TrailTech Vapor...
« Last Edit: January 03, 2011, 07:01:13 AM by Artful » Logged

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« Reply #24 on: January 03, 2011, 07:43:27 AM »

Removing the Stock Gauges

Give yourself three minutes and this step will be complete.

First locate the wiring bundle going into the back of the stock gauges.



There is a locking clip on the bottom of the harness, squeeze it and the wiring will pop out



The only thing holding the gauges on now are the two aluminum nuts on the top triple. Grab a 5mm hex socket or allen key and pull those off.



Your gauges will now come off in your hand



Leaving an even more naked front end



With the stock gauges removed, time to figure out how we're going to mount the TrailTech. The easiest method I saw immediately was to use the stock gauge connection points to make a bracket.

I took a piece of Sho-card (manila folders or cardboard work just fine, but being in the sign industry, this stuff rocks for templating) and lined up the marks for the holes.



I cut off small pieces at a time until I had a rough shape I could use as a starting point. I took care to make sure the bracket would be far apart from any electrical connections and hydraulic hoses



Now it was time to adjust the angle of the mounting bracket that came with the TrailTech for the correct viewing angle while riding the bike. I used a very high tech bending procedure I refer to as "the ThighMaster" and bent them by hand to the correct angle. Perfectionists, feel free to find a more precise method.



Line up the TT bracket with your template and mark for holes



Now punch those holes and run bolts through them, mounting the bracket to your template





Now install that assembly on the bike to test fit and viewing position.





After I knew the angle and position were perfect, I scanned in my template and adjusted it to make it completely symmetrical. Here is my template for you to use.



Print and check for size before fabricating (printers love to autoscale if you aren't careful). I happen to have access to a CNC router through my profession so I'm going to fabricate the part with that, but this could very easily be hand cut with a Dremel tool out of .063 aluminum (scrap is available at your local Signs By Tomorrow store - shameless plug - www.signsbytomorrow.com)

Now if it weren't for all the wiring in that area in addition to what we're about to install from TrailTech I'd leave it like that. But the bundles of wire are going to be pretty ugly and I'd rather hide them. I'm not going to be incredibly detailed as to how I made this particular template since it is SO specific to my application, but I figured y'all would enjoy photos of what I'm building.







Here's the template for anyone that cares to use it. Blue lines are for folds.



That's where I'm at for now, updates as they are available.
« Last Edit: January 03, 2011, 07:47:51 AM by Artful » Logged

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« Reply #25 on: January 03, 2011, 08:33:37 AM »

Fantastic write up!  I'm glad you posted up the instructions on doing the ecu work as well (tps, trim) as I really had no idea what any of that shit meant in the first place Smiley  I've heard the terms thrown around but my fueling/ecu is all stock so I've never had to research it and I know just enough about motors to know why a Hemi is called a Hemi but only enough to be dangerous when I get a wrench in my hand.  Did you end up using that tyco electronics plug you ordered?  How difficult was the wiring (i.e.-figuring out which damn pin did what)?
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« Reply #26 on: January 03, 2011, 08:40:17 AM »

Thanks, the goal here is to resolve absolutely any and all questions involved with this process. Granted I can't cover every model, but for the most part things should be consistent.

The Tyco plug is in the mail, wiring will be a major part of this write-up as it is the most misunderstood and black magic part of the install. I haven't wired mine yet, I'm adding to the write-up as I progress through the various steps. I'm waiting on the flasher relay and Tyco harness to arrive before I can move to the next part.
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« Reply #27 on: January 03, 2011, 09:30:12 AM »

Nicely done Artful.  Now I have to do mine.  The weather has been too nice to take it apart.  Looks like I will get to the Acewell this weekend. 
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« Reply #28 on: January 03, 2011, 09:37:24 AM »

I still have bergdoerfer's cable if you want to bring your bike up to do the TPS reset and fuel trimming this week before the install.
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« Reply #29 on: January 03, 2011, 09:51:50 AM »

Looks great. I like how you designed the bracket & flyscreen. It's a tight little package. As I was reading I was wondering how you were going to keep the bug splatters off the back of the head unit but then I read further. Although, I noticed your headlight contours were not perfectly symmetrical in the template. As an architect my eye immediately catches stuff like that. It would be a super simple thing to throw it into AutoCAD, draw half of it with perfect arcs, then mirror it & save a DXF for conversion into gcode for the CNC machine. However it's not that noticeable. Only other thing I would like to see would be instead of the hard bends, more rounded bends at the sides. I suppose you could carefully achieve that by peening the sides over a piece of steel pipe or something but hey, not my business. I don't suppose the wiring schematics for the bike will have the pinouts labeled for that plug, anyone? Nice work.  [moto]
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