Making a euro headlight switch....work

[TAftonomos]

I have a need to keep the light off when I first turn the key.  Reason is I'm running a HID light, and cycling the light is bad for not only the bulb but the ballast as well.  As you know, when you turn your key ON, the headlight comes on.

So...knowing and using a euro headlight switch on my 999 before, I seek out one of those suckers to remidy the problem in a "factory" way.

Too bad...the monster wiring harness only has 4 pins running to the switch, even though the factory US switch and the euro switch have 7 pins.

When I wired up my light, I used the OEM harness plug for the headlight, and took those power/signal wires off and ran them to the HID unit I have to get the OEM high beam switch to work.

I guess I need some help wiring this up.  I figure there is a way to run one of the headlight signal wires through the Euro switch to cut off the signal....just don't know which one to use. 

It's a 3 position switch, off, parking, on.  Has 3 pins.  I'm also assuming the inputs would be 12V, and the switch would either send 12 out one or both of the other pins.

Any ideas?

[TAftonomos]

Pretty much what I thought it was.

One 12V in (center pin on the 3 pin side), other 2 are 12V out.  No idea what amperage the swtich is good for, I'm just using it to signal my bixenon module.

Specifically, I took the parking wire on the headlight plug and ran it to the headlight switch.  This will provide the switch with 12V anytime the bike is ON or in park.

I then fed the wires from the other 2 pins back through the harness, running them to the headlight plug for the parking and headlight beam.  The highbeam wire remains the same.

Presto, it's easy.

[battlecry]

TA, google or bing for the headlamp gizmo or a latching relay mod.  If you start the bike with the gizmo installed, the main beam is off until you shift from neutral.  The DIY latching relay mod is similar.  Been using it to ease the CCA needed with my smaller Yuasa 7Z battery.   

[TAftonomos]

Was going to use that, but decided on the euro switch (which allows you to shut off the light whenever you want).  Thanks though! 

[Dietrich]

Thought I might be able to add something to this one...

I recently tore apart the wiring harness on my GT trying to diagnose why my headlight wasn't working.  (No high beam or low beam, turned out to be a bad relay, but that's not important to this discussion). The wiring diagram for my bike showed a headlight on/off switch in the right controls, but my bike doesn't have one (euro switch).  However, the wires WERE there.  The three wires ran inside the plastic loom almost to the control but were simply crimped together and left bare a few inches down.  Not sure if maybe some monsters were wired this way and if so the euro switch could easily be added back in.

[Drunken Monkey]

I'm a bit surprised your bike isn't ready to accept a factory Euro switch.

Every wiring diagram I've ever looked at (admitted all pre immobilizer bikes) basically used the same connector but jumped the wires for the light "on off" switch at the connector.

My thought was it was probably easier for the factory to make a single main wiring harness, and then just have different OEM switches installed (some jumped, some with the switch) for different markets.

Mind you, you could do what I did and just build a completely new harness around a motogadget smart relay box