Resolved: Patching into the dash harness. Dash Connector.

[Artful]

Solution in Reply #15 on Page #2
- Tyco Receptacle 6437288-6: http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/bin/TE.Connect?C=1&M=BYPN&TCPN=6437288-6&RQPN=6437288-6

I'm replacing my gauge cluster with an aftermarket unit. To do so obviously involves cutting into the existing terminal end to get signal wires, power, etc.

I've dug a little and can't find a female terminal end that matches up with the dash bundle, so I've got a few options. I know they will all work, but I'd like to hear some input from the board as to which has worked in the past, makes the most sense, etc.

The Options:

1. Cut off the harness
Quick, easy, but bulky and mostly permanent. Cut off the harness and use individual connectors on the wires I use. Those connectors will be a little messy compared to a single terminal and if I sell the bike in the future it will be a pain to revert it to stock gauges for the prospective buyer. Spare wires will be capped off.

2. Cut off individual wires
Snip out only the wires I use and keep the harness like a vestigial appendage. This resolves the future retrofit issue, but will exacerbate the bulky issue. Also will look very messy. The whole wiring setup will be hidden by a custom bikini fairing, but I'll know it's there... I'm a bit of a perfectionist

3. Pin into the harness
Find blade connectors that pin into the stock harness and run wire to the new gauges inputs. Clean install and not bulky, but I'd be concerned of water getting into the connections even if I electro tape it to hell.

4. Another option I didn't think of
If you have a suggestion I didn't cover, I'm all ears.

I appreciate any and all input.

[ducpainter]

I'd pin in if I could find the correct pins.

3M makes a sealing tape (found at electrical supply houses) that will eliminate the water issue.While not butt ugly it isn't exactly visually appealing. IMO it would be better than cutting.

[Artful]

Thanks, I'll look into the sealing tape. I'm hoping I can find a Molex terminal pin that will work. I'd give my left kidney to find out that there is a female terminal end that I can just build a harness with... With it going into the cluster like that I could see it being proprietary, but I'd think it odd that Ducati would make a proprietary harness. Seems expensive compared to using some off the shelf component.

[ducpainter]

Thanks, I'll look into the sealing tape. I'm hoping I can find a Molex terminal pin that will work. I'd give my left kidney to find out that there is a female terminal end that I can just build a harness with... With it going into the cluster like that I could see it being proprietary, but I'd think it odd that Ducati would make a proprietary harness. Seems expensive compared to using some off the shelf component.

How about finding a junk cluster and using the female connector?

You'd still have to do some sealing on the back side of it, but it might look a whole lot better.

[battlecry]

I'm a nut, Artful, so don't listen to me.

I'd probably get circular MS connectors from a surplus house and cut the harness clean a few inches below the gauge connector.  I'd get two plugs and wire one to the original harness tail to restore the bike to original and another to the Vapor.  I think this way I can wire up LED flasher relays and such things directly to the harness.   I'd do this now 'cuz it's winter.  Then I would find out there is not enough room to fit the connector back there behind the headlamp.  Then I'd build longer headlamp supports out of CF from Aircraft Spruce.   I'd do this now 'cuz it's winter.  

[Artful]

How about finding a junk cluster and using the female connector?

You'd still have to do some sealing on the back side of it, but it might look a whole lot better

The problem is it doesn't use a separate female terminal block. The connection is actually molded into the cluster itself. I could probably Dremel out the pin portion of the housing, but I feel pretty safe in assuming the pins themselves are soldered directly to the ICB on the cluster. So I'd have a plastic portion that's the correct shape, but I'd still have to find new pins (the EXACT pins as compared to ones that "just fit") and splice the wires, which would be a lot more work than just pinning in with generic connectors and finding a way to seal it.

[ducpainter]

I guess I'm out of touch...

the female connector on the early bikes is a metal piece on a piece of plastic that mounts into the back of the cluster cover.

I wonder if one of those would work?

[Artful]

I'll have to take a look when I get home, but I seem to remember it to be molded in as opposed to a clip in style connector.

I have sent a few PMs to folks that are using the Trailtech for their insight, hopefully someone comes back with a eureka idea.

[DucHead]

How many pins are in the connector?  Is making your own connector a possibility?  For example here are some 26- and 34-pin connectors: http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/feat/en/c/20018?BML=10576,10238

There are a handful of threads on here concerning electrical connectors/pins.

I'll see if I can find 'em...

Here's one with several links to connectors and pins: http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=20703.0

[Artful]

It's a pretty complex connector, I'll snap a photo of it tonight if I have a free second. IF I was wiring from scratch I have lots of options, being locked to the stock connectors thins them down pretty quickly.

[671M900]

I would get three cannon plugs, two female and one male. they're clean but a little labor intensive. Cut the harness before the connector to the dash, but keep track and pin the plug to the pigtail. (stock dash connector to female plug), then a male on the harness end, and a female to your trailtech. This way you can still go back to the stock if for some reason, either it breaks or the wiring still needs to be figured out.

[Artful]

Ok, so a little bit of extra Google Fu (finally had enough light to find an inscription on the bottom of the plug to head me in the right direction) is leading me to believe it's an Amphenol connector. I'm getting in touch with Allied to see if they can track it down.

Also, as suspected, the connector in the cluster itself is directly attached to the ICB, so no easy patching in there using that part. It could certainly be done, but I would rather leave my stock cluster intact.

The saga continues, I'll keep everyone updated.

Pictures for reference:

[DucHead]

That looks like the 26-position Tyco connector I linked to above.

[Artful]

That looks like the 26-position Tyco connector I linked to above.

Ah! Missed the top link and only clicked on the bottom one last night. If this board used rep you'd be limping from the amount I would sent your way.

Progress...

[ducpainter]

That looks like the 26-position Tyco connector I linked to above.

Definitely different from the earlier models.

Those were round and screwed together.