-1 up front or +2 in the back?

[rideserotta]

I know this has been discussed quite a bit but I'm still not sure which route I want to take on this. First, most of my riding is commuting. I do most of my weekday miles at 45mph and under. I have a fair amount of traffic lights on the 7 mile route. The terrain is rolling hills, nothing steep.

On the weekends I like to go to the foothills (Smokey Mountains) or the Blue Ridge Parkway. There's spirited riding but not a lot of high speed. Getting there on the interstate takes me up to 75mph but that's about it.

I have a couple questions...
1) would I be better off going with a 14 up front or up in the back?
2) if up in the back, do you recommend 1 or 2 teeth?
3) is it easier to change the front or the back?
4) will moving to a 14 require a chain adjustment? how about +1 or 2 on the back?
5) how hard is a chain adjustment?

[ducpainter]

I know this has been discussed quite a bit but I'm still not sure which route I want to take on this. First, most of my riding is commuting. I do most of my weekday miles at 45mph and under. I have a fair amount of traffic lights on the 7 mile route. The terrain is rolling hills, nothing steep.

On the weekends I like to go to the foothills (Smokey Mountains) or the Blue Ridge Parkway. There's spirited riding but not a lot of high speed. Getting there on the interstate takes me up to 75mph but that's about it.

I have a couple questions...
1) would I be better off going with a 14 up front or up in the back?... I think going up in the back is better. Less wear on the chain rubbing block
2) if up in the back, do you recommend 1 or 2 teeth?... At least 2
3) is it easier to change the front or the back?... The front
4) will moving to a 14 require a chain adjustment? how about +1 or 2 on the back?... It will require an adjustment either way
5) how hard is a chain adjustment?... Not difficult. You can do it in about 15 minutes

Keep in mind if you have over 10K on the chain and sprockets it would be a good idea to change all the parts for best longevity.

[Howie]

<snip>


I have a couple questions...
1) would I be better off going with a 14 up front or up in the back?
Personel preference, the 14 front will gear you down a little lower.  In theory it could reduce chain life, in practice I don't think you will see a difference.
2) if up in the back, do you recommend 1 or 2 teeth?
Figure about 250 RPM a tooth.
3) is it easier to change the front or the back?
Changing the back requires removing the rear wheel, changing the front does not
4) will moving to a 14 require a chain adjustment? how about +1 or 2 on the back?
Both will require a chain adjustment.
5) how hard is a chain adjustment?
You need to know how to do this as an owner. 
Here is a good link:
http://www.ducatitech.com/info/wheelchange.html
Good folks to buy chain and sprocket stuff from:
http://www.ca-cycleworks.com  both a board sponsor and the person responsible for the fine Ducati Tech stuff.

Keep in mind if you have over 10K on the chain and sprockets it would be a good idea to change all the parts for best longevity.

Yep

[rideserotta]

Awesome... thanks. The bike only has 4300 miles on it so the chain should be good. It sounds like the front will be a little easier and get me to where I want to be. 

[Jarvicious]

Front is a cinch.  The part that took the longest was cleaning out all the goop from years of chain lube deposits   On that note, PJ's black label really protects the chain well but god is it messy.  I think I'll be changing brands.



And yes, you will have to adjust your chain if you put a new front on.  My chain was borderline too loose when I put on the new one and now it's unrideable until I get it tightened.  Is that a 695 I see in your avatar?  Someone else will have to chime in on chain adjustment

[rideserotta]

It's a 620. I cleaned all the goop out a few days ago. I'm fairly handy with bicycles. I've taken apart/put back together bikes, adjusted chain tension, replaced chainrings/hubs/cassettes. But for some reason I'm intimidated by things with engines. Doesn't look like too tough of a job.

[stopintime]

15 to 14 equals 3 up rear. Both very close to 7%.
Your revs will be 7% higher at any time.
At 3,000 that's 210 rpm. At 6,000 it's 420 rpm.
Not a lot on paper, but very noticeable.

[scduc]

What "stopintime" said. If I had to do it over, I would go up 3 on the rear. A little (well alot) more $ upfront, but less stress on the chain. If the funds are tight, then going to 14 up front is not a bad option, there will be more wear and in the big picture not something to worry about.

[Slide Panda]

If you really want to hash the math, you can use:
http://www.gearingcommander.com/

It has the factory gearing and you can punch in any combination you want and see all the ratios.

[seevtsaab]

for your miles, I'd do a -1 on the front. Adding on the rear will necessitate a new chain *I think*.

I replaced my P.O. neglected chain at ~12K and dropped a tooth in the front then, rear sprocket looked
fine despite the chain neglect. I'm at 26K miles now.

I also added a case saver (Desmotimes iirc).

Next change I'll replace both sprockets, 15 front, +2 or 3 rear with longer chain.

I'm using Dupont Teflon dry lube, treats me well considering I live on a dirt road.

Oh - dude you need to find the long way to get to work.