Torque spec concerns

Started by Jarvicious, January 20, 2011, 10:17:52 AM

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Jarvicious

Having stripped my fair share of bolts, nuts, an other I'm getting ready to start puting the bike back together and I was wondering how spot on the factory torque specs are?  It seems like most of the fasteners on my bike are steel bolt-aluminum thread and that can be a recipe for disaster.  Anyone have any horror stories or should I just find the factory specs and go to town?
We're liberated by the hearts that imprison us.  We're taken hostage by the ones that we break.

ducpainter

Unless you plan on re-engineering everything I'd make sure the threads are clean and properly lubricated, if called for, and go for it.

I ALWAYS lubricate steel to aluminum fastener threads even if it isn't specified because I plan on having to take it apart again...the factory doesn't care.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
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 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
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    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
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Speeddog

I haven't found any of the OEM specs to be over what's necessary.

Just double-check that the fastener description and size that's in the specs matches what you're tightening.
The descriptions don't always make sense, I guess the translation from Italian wasn't reviewed by a native.
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silversled

I have built and rebuilt several Ducatis using the factory manual.  I am one of those guys that torques everything (Drawer #3 in my cabinet is reserved for all my SnapOn Torque wrenches).  There are no issues with using the manual torque numbers....for the ones that are right!  I have found several in the tables that just "don't make sense" from experience.  If I recall, the spark plug torque number in my S2R1000 manual and the drain plug number in my 999S manual are bad numbers.  These crazy Italians   ;)

He Man

like DP said, the KEY to proper torque is CLEAN threads. If the threads are not clean, you'll over torque it just trying to get the thing in, and either it freezes when you take it back out.

Jarvicious

Right on fellas.  Cleanliness is my M.O. and a dollop (is that how you spell that damn word?) of antiseize usually goes on any steel/aluminum joint.  Most of the stuff I'll be doing is the bigger bolts (upper triple, bottom brackets) so I'm not too worried about over tightening but rather under.  As far as the drain plug is concerned, the dozens of oil changes I've done have always been content with "snug".  Oil pans are expensive :)
We're liberated by the hearts that imprison us.  We're taken hostage by the ones that we break.

ducpainter

Careful with triple clamp bolts.

You definitely don't want to over tighten them.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



alibaba

Unless there is a caveat on whether to torque a fastener dry or lubricated, the torque spec itself is almost meaningless.  The difference in 'break away' torque or clamping force between a dry, clean bolt and an oiled bolt is substantial.

Perhaps someone can illuminate us as to whether Ducati torque specs are given dry or lubricated.  Folks who are 'anal' over this issue even like to know what the specific lubricant is for 'wet torque.'

silversled

Bolts go in dry when there is no mention of "grease"
Bolts go in with anti-seize when it asks for anti-seize
Bolts go in with moly-type lube when it calls for grease
Bolts go in with thread lock when it calls out for thread lock.


DucNaked

Quote from: silversled on January 21, 2011, 06:03:52 AM
Bolts go in dry when there is no mention of "grease"
Bolts go in with anti-seize when it asks for anti-seize
Bolts go in with moly-type lube when it calls for grease
Bolts go in with thread lock when it calls out for thread lock.



silversled is right the service manual for your bike has all that info.
"If your bike is quiter than mine your a pussy, if it's louder you're an asshole." Monster 1100S

Jarvicious

I'd only browsed through it.  Good to know.
We're liberated by the hearts that imprison us.  We're taken hostage by the ones that we break.

junior varsity

Quote from: silversled on January 21, 2011, 06:03:52 AM
Bolts go in dry when there is no mention of "grease"
Bolts go in with anti-seize when it asks for anti-seize
Bolts go in with moly-type lube when it calls for grease
Bolts go in with thread lock when it calls out for thread lock.

on my bike, bolts get anti-seize if there is no mention. cold welding is a pregnant dog, especially if you are playing with a combo of ti, alu, and steel.

ducpainter

Quote from: a m on January 21, 2011, 01:46:24 PM
on my bike, bolts get anti-seize if there is no mention. cold welding is a pregnant dog, especially if you are playing with a combo of ti, alu, and steel.
I'm pretty cautious too...from bad experiences.

While I don't use anti-seize on smaller fasteners, dissimilar metals always get lubed.

I don't use a torque wrench on small stuff anyway, and larger fasteners almost always call out for lube or loctite.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



junior varsity

i hate nothing more than having to drill out a fastener.

I've had the threads come out of a wheel with the rotor bolt... AWESOME